Replacement window switches - that are DIFFERENT ??

[ShadowsPapa]

Doesn't the 3W unit have auto down capabilities along with the auto up?
If so, it might help you find a set of switches easier than the "4way" you keep talking about or are looking for.

I'd have to check to see if they simply use the Jeep's built-in auto down (second detent of the switch) or if they bypass the Jeep's system and use their own. Technically they wouldn't need to add auto-down because Jeep already does that on the fronts.
My wife has her Jeep out and about today so I can't go test it.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Call it a rough proof of concept or whatever you like - it would work IF it were adhered very solidly to the switches. Not easy since these switches are plastic with a rubber coating on them which wears and eventually peels off (don't believe it, look at those for sale on eBay - wow, they must have opened and closed windows every day for 2 years with dirty fingers?)
Anyway, while holding this piece in place. I was able to make the switch move to the "window up" position by PUSHING on the aluminum piece I made. A straight in push. Not a lift, not a pull - but push just like you normally do to roll the windows down.
I made an extremely crude drawing (Picasso was my teacher, that's my excuse) and figured if the piece went downward just a bit more than a stock switch, it would make the window down bit work more easily too.
The trick will be to make it so that it not only doesn't interfere with the switch above it (the rear windows switches with this interfering with the front window switches, for example) and making them stick very solidly.
I figure I'll use an extra used set of switches and pull the originals to keep for the future just in case she decides to trade again (Oh, I hope not unless it's for all electric. So much going into this one) or just to make it "future proof" - keep the original perfect stock switches hermetically sealed in a mayonnaise jar or something.

Anywho, my idea MAY work, these appear to have a fulcrum placement that makes for the ability to push this piece to get the bottom of the switch to swing out enough to operate it.

This is a spare set of switches and "pod" I bought - having spare parts when you have two vehicles with this setup can't hurt.

 

[Gatorized]

Did you get those aftermarket colored switch covers? Wondering if those would be a good base to attach your lever to, or to use as a base template for a 3d print version of what you show here.
do you need those for all windows or is just the front windows enough when your wife needs fresh air?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Did you get those aftermarket colored switch covers? Wondering if those would be a good base to attach your lever to, or to use as a base template for a 3d print version of what you show here.
do you need those for all windows or is just the front windows enough when your wife needs fresh air?

All. Sometimes you need to open the rears a bit to relieve the buffeting effect of a vehicle that is like a scoop in the wind. We had to open the rears a bit on the Grand Cherokee because the air pressure built up and caused the hatch to buffet. Can't say this won't in our winds.

The colored covers I'd not say were an ideal base for anything. They aren't very solid. They are made more for color and thin to not change the switches shape much.
I'd say using a putty or sugru to get a pattern of the switch face. If I had some worn out switches, I'd take the rubber coating off as that would give a better profile of the most solid part of the switch, and a better surface to adhere something to.
The ones in the pic are just too good to strip that black off of - might try to find a set of switches that have the faces worn badly or are starting to peel.

 

[Gatorized]

I know what you mean - I always crack both back windows to limit that buffeting.
to limit the crowding around those switches, maybe a single lever to manipulate both rear window switches at once.
you can get a mad max vibe going in that purple rig with some radical rods for those switch levers… LOL!

 

[Terminus33]

What about setting them up on the left grab bar? I think you could tap into the wires for the momentary Up and Down for each window. Total of 8 switches and still maintain the functionality of the OEM switches up down and auto down.

VOSwitch
From top down,
1&2 front driver up&down momentary
3&4 front passanger up&down momentary
5&6 rear driver up&down momentary
7&8 rear Passanger Up&down momentary

Pricey but I think it could be done unless the canbuss interferes with extra "switching" on the windows.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What about setting them up on the left grab bar? I think you could tap into the wires for the momentary Up and Down for each window. Total of 8 switches and still maintain the functionality of the OEM switches up down and auto down.

VOSwitch
From top down,
1&2 front driver up&down momentary
3&4 front passanger up&down momentary
5&6 rear driver up&down momentary
7&8 rear Passanger Up&down momentary

Pricey but I think it could be done unless the canbuss interferes with extra "switching" on the windows.

Been discussed - she uses the bar to get in and out (as I do on our Jeeps) so any buttons would be grabbed or pressed.
Wiring would be a situation since there are 12 wires in the stock switches, at least 2 of them a fairly heavy gauge.
The aux switch functionality would need to match exactly what each of the factory switches does in order for the 3W system to work.
You're not going to duplicate the 4 positions of the factory front windows very easily with 2 switches and get the 3W system to work - let alone the factory auto down. (Unless I discover something amazing when I take these extra switches apart)

But like said - been discussed. I can see the complaints about switches there when trying to get in and out and grabbing that with the thing in ready mode and windows going up and down.

If switches were going to be moved - 4 in the door panel would be it.

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