Aftermarket Suspension kit for diesel

[Beungood]

I have a relative thats thinking of selling his Gladiator Overland and he said hed give me a good price. I wanted a Rubicon or Mohave but this is too good to pass up with its low mileage.

Are there any aftermarket Suspensions like AEV Dor Clayton that I could put in that would do what the Mohave does (No , wont be getting air or doing rock crawling too much ) what either of these can do or close to it?

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[Escape.idiocracy]

So, this is going to be full of opinions…. The diesels and Mojave share the frame strengthening… diesels have iron knuckles (good thing)

the Mojave has pretty good shocks for a factory shock. But if your looking at lifting your better suited to explore other shocks outside of the Mojave fox’s.- they are good but there are better.

The diesel has longer front bump stop support tubes so factory height will bottom out much quicker…. Sounds like you are looking at lifts so this is a kite point.

Clayton makes good kits- start there. For shocks, Falcon 3.3’s, bilstien 8100’s, kings, fox 2.5 elites- all good and some arguably decently “better” than Mojave factory shocks.

If you are new to jeeps off road etc… shocks aren’t something that should be skimped on…. But also, the up front cost is only a portion of the ownership. Rebuilding every 30-50k miles has a cost- and can be lessened if you rebuild yourself (depending on your choice….). This is also a purchase that needs long term thought… will a 2.5” lift be what you want/need? Or will you one day explore a 4-5”? Shock LENGTHS play into this HUGE! You can have a low lift and long shocks, but not a tall lift and short shocks….

 

[Camaroboi13]

What is your end goal? What height do you intend to run? What tire size is ideal for you? Lots and lots of factors to consider. I did a lot of research before getting my lift and I used multiple companies to do so.
ReadyLift 4” lift kit for gas trucks
Falcon 2.1 shocks
Teraflex .5” front spacers
Rusty’s 4” diesel lift springs front
Clayton track bar rear
Stock upper control arms
ReadyLift non adjustable LCAs
Stock driveshafts
37” tires

The end result is a dead nuts level gladiator that rides stiffer than stock on road. 4.5” front and 3” rear. I have noticed that the faster I drive off road (to an extent of course), the smoother it feels. I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

Figure out the answers to those questions first and then come back and ask for answers ??

 

[Beungood]

Ive wheeled and offroaded since the 80's and have installed an IFS suspension lift inb a ford back then owned several jeeps since. I think I want to keep the lift and tires moderate and not too big. Great comments so far exactly the route I like with that last post. Keep em coming!!

 

[Sweetums]

Shock LENGTHS play into this HUGE! You can have a low lift and long shocks, but not a tall lift and short shocks….

Sort of true. It depends on the shock and whether it's a bypass, having the shock sitting too compressed can move it out of the bypass range of the stroke at the wrong time. You also run a risk of the shock bottoming before the axle hits the bumpstop; that's a bad thing and it will destroy the shock (unless you are running internal bumpstop coilovers).

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Sort of true. It depends on the shock and whether it's a bypass, having the shock sitting too compressed can move it out of the bypass range of the stroke at the wrong time. You also run a risk of the shock bottoming before the axle hits the bumpstop; that's a bad thing and it will destroy the shock (unless you are running internal bumpstop coilovers).

Which is why I stayed shock “lengths” . Both extended and collapsed. Shocks make or break a well built jeep.

you are correct in that I should have added “ride height within the shock travel” too.

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