2024 Mojavicon to be

[bleda2002]

Its all pretty new to me and I am still learning. I have the Mojave X. If I'm not mistaken, it came with the heavier duty springs, due to the stock steel bumpers. I hope

I do not believe so unless something changed between the one I saw on the dealer lot and yours. It appeared to still be the same mojave springs as the non-x. The shocks and springs are designed to specifically work together, so just changing spring rate would throw off the shock tuning and vice versa. Hence the mojave/mx soldiers on with the lower 6K tow rating. The front mojave springs were already heavier rate than the rubicon for the extra weight of the hood and tuning (for example running whoops), but the rears are softer.

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[FL Robert]

I do not believe so unless something changed between the one I saw on the dealer lot and yours. It appeared to still be the same mojave springs as the non-x. The shocks and springs are designed to specifically work together, so just changing spring rate would throw off the shock tuning and vice versa. Hence the mojave/mx soldiers on with the lower 6K tow rating. The front mojave springs were already heavier rate than the rubicon for the extra weight of the hood and tuning (for example running whoops), but the rears are softer.

Again, still learning here. I read this from Benny at All Mopar Parts:

Thank you for this, Here are the parts breakdowns for each
2024 Jeep Gladiator Mojave X with steel bumpers:
1C6JJTEG1RL104587

Front springs -68607513AB
Left Front shock - 68465829AL
Right Front Shock - 68465846AL

Rear springs - 68607529AA
Left Rear shock - 68465832AF
Right Rear shock - 68465833AF

The skid plate used on this vehicle is a standard Rubicon Black plate # 68293984AB AKA 82215183AB


2024 Jeep Gladiator Mojave without steel bumpers:
1C6JJTEG9RL104983

Front springs - 68607512AB
Left Front shock - 68465829AL
Right front shock - 68465846AL

Rear springs - 68607528AA
Left Rear shock - 68465832AF
Right Rear shock - 68465833AF


....It looks like both the front and rear springs are different. I was under the impression that the difference was a heavier spring.

 

[bleda2002]

Again, still learning here. I red this from Benny at All Mopar Parts:

Thank you for this, Here are the parts breakdowns for each
2024 Jeep Gladiator Mojave X with steel bumpers:
1C6JJTEG1RL104587

Front springs -68607513AB
Left Front shock - 68465829AL
Right Front Shock - 68465846AL

Rear springs - 68607529AA
Left Rear shock - 68465832AF
Right Rear shock - 68465833AF

The skid plate used on this vehicle is a standard Rubicon Black plate # 68293984AB AKA 82215183AB


2024 Jeep Gladiator Mojave without steel bumpers:
1C6JJTEG9RL104983

Front springs - 68607512AB
Left Front shock - 68465829AL
Right front shock - 68465846AL

Rear springs - 68607528AA
Left Rear shock - 68465832AF
Right Rear shock - 68465833AF


....It looks like both the front and rear springs are different. I was under the impression that the difference was a heavier spring.

Interesting, I wonder how much stiffer and/or longer the spring is then. It wouldn't be much to compensate for the difference in bumper weight. The Rubicon has heavier rear springs for payload and tow rating, not really the bumpers. The Mojave shocks have a very narrow ride range so any increase in the back would need to be only enough to offset the extra 60ish pounds of bumper to keep it in the right tune.

 

[FL Robert]

I'm not sure. Knowing I was going to add an SmartCap to the bed, I was cautious about the weight in the rear. I was told due to the steel bumpers and tow package, the springs are heavier. I'm putting the AEV spacer lift on front and rear. I'm hoping it all works out and sits well.

 

[bleda2002]

I'm not sure. Knowing I was going to add an SmartCap to the bed, I was cautious about the weight in the rear. I was told due to the steel bumpers and tow package, the springs are heavier. I'm putting the AEV spacer lift on front and rear. I'm hoping it all works out and sits well.

It's safe to assume that heavier will probably be literally a few pounds heavier rate not heavy duty. Other trims had varying springs based on options and the testing on the jl forum still shows them within a couple pounds of each other.

Measure shock ride position before hand, and shoot to keep it in that position. Depending on how much weight you add that could be the spacer lift with out shock extensions. The bypass zone is about 2 inches total, once outside that zone you just have regular shocks again.

 

[FL Robert]

It's safe to assume that heavier will probably be literally a few pounds heavier rate not heavy duty. Other trims had varying springs based on options and the testing on the jl forum still shows them within a couple pounds of each other.

Measure shock ride position before hand, and shoot to keep it in that position. Depending on how much weight you add that could be the spacer lift with out shock extensions. The bypass zone is about 2 inches total, once outside that zone you just have regular shocks again.

That makes a lot of sense!

 

[Aj58]

Here’s another thread that was pretty informative on the Mojave shocks. It also has some information like stock eye to eye measurement for the springs so you can see if you stay within that zone when you start making your changes.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...to-eye-measurements.78391/page-2#post-1286843

 

[FL Robert]

Here’s another thread that was pretty informative on the Mojave shocks. It also has some information like stock eye to eye measurement for the springs so you can see if you stay within that zone when you start making your changes.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...to-eye-measurements.78391/page-2#post-1286843

That is great information. Thank you!

 

[EgulAye]

I'm building a Rubave! For me the parts of the Mojave I want are the better shocks, the iron knuckles, and the reinforced frame. Since I started with a Rubicon the frame is not likely to happen.

I replaced the stock Fox shocks with Fox Series 2.5. The iron knuckles are in the future, I'm waiting to see how these aluminum things hold up. I'm not jumping it or hopping on rocks, maybe I'll be fine.

I like that I have a sway bar disconnect, front locker, and the 4:1 transfer case. I've also added a 1-1/2" lift, 35" Nitto's, a winch, and some lighting. My off road use is not extreme, but I do drive fast. Slow but sure progress...

I've started following your build and I'm interested to see where it goes!

 

[Jobofly]

So you think the rubi is just front lockers and sway bar disconnect.... and you think you'll be doing so much jumping that the actually minimal reinforcement on certain Frame parts will negate the frame designed for crawling, and oh ya, the my rubi came with the same steering knuckles the mojave did, oh and the rubi can be lifted and shocked changed and it's still a rubi, unlike the mojave when it's lifted and the shoks changed it becomes an expensive sport S and you enjoy that gearin on a desent lift.... but cool you do you slick....

Actually the Mojave has stronger knuckles and frame than the rubicon.

 

[Teqsand]

Actually the Mojave has stronger knuckles and frame than the rubicon.

It has a reinforcements on the frame, which unless you're doing some mild jumps or full time high speed travel over desert trails is moot..... (I live in the mojave desert)
As for the knuckles, my 23 JTRD has the same exact knuckles that mojave has.... I also have a shit ton more power

 

[bleda2002]

It has a reinforcements on the frame, which unless you're doing some mild jumps or full time high speed travel over desert trails is moot..... (I live in the mojave desert)
As for the knuckles, my 23 JTRD has the same exact knuckles that mojave has.... I also have a shit ton more power

The diesel actually has many of the same frame reinforcements as well (not they did much as it's very very minimal). It was basically some extra welds and the diesel got some of those for the extra weight upfront such as at the track bar/steering box mount.

I think it would be a more convincing argument if it was actual changes like beefier or extra cross members or gussets, but some frame welds on an already very stout frame...meh

 

[FL Robert]

I'm building a Rubave! For me the parts of the Mojave I want are the better shocks, the iron knuckles, and the reinforced frame. Since I started with a Rubicon the frame is not likely to happen.

I replaced the stock Fox shocks with Fox Series 2.5. The iron knuckles are in the future, I'm waiting to see how these aluminum things hold up. I'm not jumping it or hopping on rocks, maybe I'll be fine.

I like that I have a sway bar disconnect, front locker, and the 4:1 transfer case. I've also added a 1-1/2" lift, 35" Nitto's, a winch, and some lighting. My off road use is not extreme, but I do drive fast. Slow but sure progress...

I've started following your build and I'm interested to see where it goes!

That sounds great! Seems like you are on the right track with your upgrades. Do you have a build journal?

 

[whiteglad]

When choosing between Mojave and Rubicon, I drew upon my experience with JKU Rubi's and the JT max tow. I found the 2.72 transfer case to be better for my use on Nevada hunting trails, and appreciate the Mojave upgrades to frame, knuckles, shocks, seats, steering wheel. I figure if I later find a "need" for a front locker and/or sway bar disconnect, they are relatively easy to add. I have set up a lot of differential gears, so could add a locker to the existing Mojave front differential. Alternatively, I might find a take-off Rubicon front axle and control its locker with a switch, perhaps one of the Auxiliary Switches.

 

[FL Robert]

When choosing between Mojave and Rubicon, I drew upon my experience with JKU Rubi's and the JT max tow. I found the 2.72 transfer case to be better for my use on Nevada hunting trails, and appreciate the Mojave upgrades to frame, knuckles, shocks, seats, steering wheel. I figure if I later find a "need" for a front locker and/or sway bar disconnect, they are relatively easy to add. I have set up a lot of differential gears, so could add a locker to the existing Mojave front differential. Alternatively, I might find a take-off Rubicon front axle and control its locker with a switch, perhaps one of the Auxiliary Switches.

Well said.

If you ever go with stock front lockers, you can use the Rubi stock front and rear locker switch fairly easily. The harness is already there, you just need to activate with a tazer or similar.

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