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Painting the bare metal underneath Hinges?

ShadowsPapa

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Yes, took my body shop about 7 spray out to get it right and they're the best in town...........They nailed in the end
I have a bad feeling that reign would be the same. Has anyone else looked really close at that color when it's real clean and in light? Multi-colored metallic in that paint, including red, blue, and other colors. It ain't just purple flecks.
It will take a real pro to match that. But she really baby's it, so hopefully there won't be a need. She waited years for that color.
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Minty JL

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I have a bad feeling that reign would be the same. Has anyone else looked really close at that color when it's real clean and in light? Multi-colored metallic in that paint, including red, blue, and other colors. It ain't just purple flecks.
It will take a real pro to match that. But she really baby's it, so hopefully there won't be a need. She waited years for that color.
I'm certain you're correct Bill.

They made the spray cards with the primer/sealer, base and clear.........then I took the jeep to them and the put the spray out card next to the fender and surrounding areas and used that sweet flashlight to make sure the metallic and hues were correct.

I was paying out of pocket and they were not cheap, but the end product was well worth it.
 

jac04

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I'm not sure it matters whether or not you "really baby" a JL or JT. If you poke around on the Wrangler Forum and JL Forum, you can find corrosion reports from people who claim to have taken meticulous care of their always-garaged vehicle.
 

Minty JL

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I'm not sure it matters whether or not you "really baby" a JL or JT. If you poke around on the Wrangler Forum and JL Forum, you can find corrosion reports from people who claim to have taken meticulous care of their always-garaged vehicle.
Meticulous care can't beat the periodic table in the end.....poor design. Engineers are not scientist at the end of the day
 

ShadowsPapa

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I'm not sure it matters whether or not you "really baby" a JL or JT. If you poke around on the Wrangler Forum and JL Forum, you can find corrosion reports from people who claim to have taken meticulous care of their always-garaged vehicle.
That may be - but true galvanic processes rely on water (and salts of any sort make it a lot worse)

But then - I'll pit my meticulous care against many out there. There's a reason I have a nearly perfect 196 out of 200 point 42 year old car with 3 gold wins.

If it's a true factory problem, it won't matter how things are taken care of.
If it's galvanic reactions, it will matter.
The problem is, we don't know the exact metals involved - we don't know the exact aluminum skin alloy or even the composition of the hinge.
On the other hand - forum members have shown bubbles on the tail gate - not at the edge and not where any other part bolts to it.
That makes me scratch my head (and risk what hair is left) and wonder- WTH is going on there??
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Meticulous care can't beat the periodic table in the end.....poor design. Engineers are not scientist at the end of the day
Yeah, if it's galvanic reactions - science wins, the periodic table wins.
And if that's the cause, it makes me wonder and ask even more - "zinc shims???, really?"

The idea behind the doors and hinges is ok, the implementation of the idea is poorly done (assuming we are truly dealing dissimilar metals more than a step apart in the activity (or the flip side- nobility) of metals.

I find it odd that there are steel bolts holding zinc castings to other steel parts on my bench, brass straps held to steel plates using steel rivets waiting for me to process and re-plate, alternators with steel, zinc and aluminum mounted to the lower part of engines, exposed to road grime, salts and water for 50 years - and only the steel pulley on the rusts.

There's something going on we don't know - one of the hinge material, another the alloy of the door skin.
But then - other oddities are the fact that Ford and GM have both had hood paint issues that look exactly like Jeep's issues and Jeep hoods and tailgates show similar damage, especially near the edge of hoods, but on the tailgate, not necessarily at the edge.
 

Minty JL

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Yeah, if it's galvanic reactions - science wins, the periodic table wins.
And if that's the cause, it makes me wonder and ask even more - "zinc shims???, really?"

The idea behind the doors and hinges is ok, the implementation of the idea is poorly done (assuming we are truly dealing dissimilar metals more than a step apart in the activity (or the flip side- nobility) of metals.

I find it odd that there are steel bolts holding zinc castings to other steel parts on my bench, brass straps held to steel plates using steel rivets waiting for me to process and re-plate, alternators with steel, zinc and aluminum mounted to the lower part of engines, exposed to road grime, salts and water for 50 years - and only the steel pulley on the rusts.

There's something going on we don't know - one of the hinge material, another the alloy of the door skin.
But then - other oddities are the fact that Ford and GM have both had hood paint issues that look exactly like Jeep's issues and Jeep hoods and tailgates show similar damage, especially near the edge of hoods, but on the tailgate, not necessarily at the edge.
Yeah GM had they learning curve back in the late 80s to early 90s
 

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I have a 2023 JTRD that I bought new--the hinges are hardly a concern. It is the seams under the hood and at the base of the doors where the issues really manifest. I have had the truck about a year--the hood has already been replaced and the drivers door seam is now showing corrosion. Dealer body shop did an amazing job on the hood--looks perfect. Hopefully the doors will be the same. Despite the issue, I love the truck. Last of the midsized diesels........
 

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What if you sprayed the hinge area with a WD40 type oil and wiped offf the excess.
Or Just wrap it with a nice color and call it a day.
 

ShadowsPapa

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What if you sprayed the hinge area with a WD40 type oil and wiped offf the excess.
Or Just wrap it with a nice color and call it a day.
WD40 isn't very good at that. I've seen a lot of people spray tools like hand saws and so on with it and weeks or months later - rust. It's not really an oil per se. People in tool forums and other areas actually warn against thinking it is very protective for very long.
 

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Geoarch

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Yeah, if it's galvanic reactions - science wins, the periodic table wins.
And if that's the cause, it makes me wonder and ask even more - "zinc shims???, really?"

The idea behind the doors and hinges is ok, the implementation of the idea is poorly done (assuming we are truly dealing dissimilar metals more than a step apart in the activity (or the flip side- nobility) of metals.

I find it odd that there are steel bolts holding zinc castings to other steel parts on my bench, brass straps held to steel plates using steel rivets waiting for me to process and re-plate, alternators with steel, zinc and aluminum mounted to the lower part of engines, exposed to road grime, salts and water for 50 years - and only the steel pulley on the rusts.

There's something going on we don't know - one of the hinge material, another the alloy of the door skin.
But then - other oddities are the fact that Ford and GM have both had hood paint issues that look exactly like Jeep's issues and Jeep hoods and tailgates show similar damage, especially near the edge of hoods, but on the tailgate, not necessarily at the edge.
FYI, I run a x-ray fluorescence spectrometry lab and analyze metals for many with similar questions. If you send me a sample, I can tell you what it is (I'm not taking it off my JTR though).
 

ShadowsPapa

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FYI, I run a x-ray fluorescence spectrometry lab and analyze metals for many with similar questions. If you send me a sample, I can tell you what it is (I'm not taking it off my JTR though).
You have no idea how much I wish I had access to a scrapped JT right now. In fact, I might start digging around in the junkyards around here. I'd be more than happy to send samples.
No, I'm not messing with the paint seal on my screws and hinges, either - I don't blame you!

That would be SO COOL.
 

jac04

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Meticulous care can't beat the periodic table in the end.....poor design. Engineers are not scientist at the end of the day
If it's a true factory problem, it won't matter how things are taken care of.
If it's galvanic reactions, it will matter.
...
That makes me scratch my head (and risk what hair is left) and wonder- WTH is going on there??
It's not galvanic corrosion. I keep saying that and nobody seems to get it.

I'll say it again ... What all of these places have in common is that they are areas where moisture (along with road salt, acid rain, etc.) can become trapped. When moisture gets trapped in these areas, it will lead to corrosion of the aluminum by itself - a combination of crevice corrosion and filiform corrosion.

IMO, it will matter how things are taken care of. I factory-ordered my JT with my eyes wide open to the corrosion issues. Before I ever started driving it, I treated all of my door hinge interface surfaces, as well as the door seams and the tailgate seams with Boeshield. I've posted about it before. The key is that you need to do it as soon as possible, i.e. when the vehicle is brand spankin' new. I was amazed at how much Boeshield wicked into the interface surfaces at the hinges.

Boeshield is the same stuff I use to keep all the plated metal on my 56 year old award-winning car looking like new.
 

Geoarch

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You have no idea how much I wish I had access to a scrapped JT right now. In fact, I might start digging around in the junkyards around here. I'd be more than happy to send samples.
No, I'm not messing with the paint seal on my screws and hinges, either - I don't blame you!

That would be SO COOL.
I'm an archaeological geochemist, so I've analyzed many different materials in the last 35 years+. Mostly rocks, but many metals as well: www.swxrflab.net.
 

ShadowsPapa

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It's not galvanic corrosion. I keep saying that and nobody seems to get it.
I've posted the same in other threads several times.
For one thing, that requires metals farther apart, and - it happens at the joint of the two metals, and requires water. Without direct contact, without water, it won't happen, and it happens where the two make contact, not several inches away.
Doesn't matter what it is, I can't see zinc as being the solution.
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