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Articulated 4 link rear suspension

Zachanadandy

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Another question, let's say I decided to go with a bigger lift . And I had this contraption on there how does it affect the axle as the frame moves upwards.
Far better than the stock configuration. With equal length uppers and lowers, more lift automatically rolls the pinion up so its still pointed at the transfer case like it should. With the super short stock uppers more lift points the pinion down which is the opposite of what you want. Yes adjustable uppers and/or lowers allow you to fix the pinion angle at ride height, but as soon as the suspension droops the pinion dives again. You could pull the shocks and sway bar links off the back and droop the suspension until the coils fall out and my pinion angle is still correct. Try that with short uppers and see what happens. Bringing the ram suspension over to the gladiator was the easy button from an engineering perspective, but when you add longer shocks and start cycling the suspension you realize just how narrow a window it really works in. I've had mine installed since I had only 2" spacers. Now on metalcloak 3.5" springs that have me close to 4.5" of lift it's still vastly better than stock. If you're going 6"+ of lift in my opinion you should be running 42"+ tires, 1 tons, and obviously not the stock control arm setup.
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Stan H

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Link says 4 link then only shows 2 bars ?
 

Stan H

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Show me some pics when you can
.I want to see what it looks like and what the springs are doing
 

Zachanadandy

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Link says 4 link then only shows 2 bars ?
You don't need to replace the lowers, they are already long enough for plenty of suspension travel. The stock setup is called a 4 link but it's really a 5 link. Adding the triangulated 4 link leaves you with a true 4 link. 2 new uppers and 2 stock lowers. If you really wanted the ultimate in suspension short of going to full long arms you could run the complete rock krawler kit that includes lowers with heim joints but I've never felt the need. I still think the front geo brackets ride better than any other front setup I've run short of full long arms on a lifted Jeep. You can save a bunch of money running geo brackets and stock arms too.
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...IIKf1NAlx5JripXjrqxIN3EFHC3APQSRoCm3QQAvD_BwE
 

Stan H

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You definitely have me intrigued and interested. Wished RK showed a pic of their crap on a Jeep
 

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Zachanadandy

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You definitely have me intrigued and interested. Wished RK showed a pic of their crap on a Jeep
Just looked back through my phone and I don't have any pictures of the rear setup. I'll try to get some next time I have a chance. As a side note you also drill and tap the 2 bolts that hold the parking brake cables out to 1/2" on top of the axle so there are 2 grade 8 1/2" bolts holding the cradle on as well as the u-bolts even if you don't weld it on. In my opinion the drilling and tapping was the hardest part of the install but still not overly difficult.
 

Stan H

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Just looked back through my phone and I don't have any pictures of the rear setup. I'll try to get some next time I have a chance. As a side note you also drill and tap the 2 bolts that hold the parking brake cables out to 1/2" on top of the axle so there are 2 grade 8 1/2" bolts holding the cradle on as well as the u-bolts even if you don't weld it on. In my opinion the drilling and tapping was the hardest part of the install but still not overly difficult.
Okay just post here of send em DM whichever thanks again..
 

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Stan H

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Another question I have is how does this affect the spring nest and spring perch for the rear axle ? With the longer arms and obviously upward rotation of the pinion does this kit cause the coil spring to rest at an angle creating a bow in the coil ?
 

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Another question I have is how does this affect the spring nest and spring perch for the rear axle ? With the longer arms and obviously upward rotation of the pinion does this kit cause the coil spring to rest at an angle creating a bow in the coil ?
The RK kit should have less pinion movement over the range of articulation. Adjust the uppers to length, aim the pinion at the transfer case output and go.
 

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Lots of great discussion here that I missed. I think the confusion on the Gladiator 4 link using a track bar is that the stock system is a Parallel 4 link, which is not the same as a triangulated 4 link that eliminates the track bar and incorporates a truss for the triangulated links. The biggest improvement for the triangulated is articulation.

as for welding on the truss, the RK kit comes with u-bolts for the axle tubes. I use the u-bolts and run a bead to connect the truss to the tubes, but I don’t believe this is a required step.
 

Stan H

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The RK kit should have less pinion movement over the range of articulation. Adjust the uppers to length, aim the pinion at the transfer case output and go.
I am guessing this aiming of the pinion angle is done by lengthing the new upper arms until it tilts back further.
So you see that is why I ask about the coil spring sitting in a curl or weird in the nest or perch ? Seems the bottom of the spring would need a nest 🪹 type perch to rest in that would keep it planted .
 

Zachanadandy

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I am guessing this aiming of the pinion angle is done by lengthing the new upper arms until it tilts back further.
So you see that is why I ask about the coil spring sitting in a curl or weird in the nest or perch ? Seems the bottom of the spring would need a nest 🪹 type perch to rest in that would keep it planted .
It's not that dramatic unless you're running 8" or more of lift. The pinion should be pointed at the transfer case at ride height no matter what lift you run. If it's a standard Clayton or metalcloak or others with adjustable arms that retain the factory 5 link geometry you should still be adjusting them so the pinion angle is right. With 3.5" of lift it's very minimal. The taller you go the more angled your lower perch would need to be.
 

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I am guessing this aiming of the pinion angle is done by lengthing the new upper arms until it tilts back further.
So you see that is why I ask about the coil spring sitting in a curl or weird in the nest or perch ? Seems the bottom of the spring would need a nest 🪹 type perch to rest in that would keep it planted .
It's a non issue if it's already lifted. A little bit of a balancing act, but not as bad as the front where 6* of caster points the pinion away from the tcase output.
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