Need lift advice, truck rides like a wagon

[joshua27]

I just bought a slightly used Gladiator Rubicon Launch Edition on Friday. The truck is rolling on 20" DV8 wheels with a set of 37x12.50 Cooper Discoverer STT Pros and it rides like a logging wagon. Why did I buy a truck without test driving it you ask? Well due to the current pandemic I bought the truck off the internet without actually inspecting it first. Also I'm not that upset about it as I know this is a fixable issue.

I'm pretty sure the truck has a 1.5" daystar level kit installed with the factory isolator still in place making it more like 2". The issue I believe is the fact that it's still running stock Fox shocks WITHOUT a shock extension bracket. I'm not sure why it wasn't installed but I'm assuming the bumpy ride is attributable to the springs/shocks not being able to fully do their job due to limited movement. I've lowered the air pressure in the 37s from about 42psi cold to 32psi cold as well.

Just to be clear, street manners are my primary concern. I've ordered a Fox steering stabilizer to hopefully correct some of the wonky steering/wandering. I have no plans to ever take my truck off road on anything more than a dirt trail. I'm not into hardcore wheeling. I like lifted trucks and I like Jeeps so I just killed 2 birds with one stone with this purchase. Please get all of the requisite "bro" comments out of the way first.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how to correct?

Sponsored

 

[Renegade]

Shock extensions should be the first step. If you don’t like the “firm” ride from the 20s, you could try to swap with someone. You may also want to add some extended control arms to bring your caster back into spec. Mopar 2” lift control arms can be bought for $60, and easily installed. They are 1/4” longer than stock.

 

[SandSurfer]

Your shocks are "bottoming out" on the down stroke, get a set of shock extensions, take out the factory shims and everything should settle out! I'm running the 1 1/2 Daystar kit with shock extensions and the ride is exactly the same as factory! And yes as said above, the 20" wheels will contribute to a little rougher ride, I'm running 37 x 12.5 x 17 Patagonia M/T's

 

[joshua27]

Your shocks are "bottoming out" on the down stroke, get a set of shock extensions, take out the factory shims and everything should settle out! I'm running the 1 1/2 Daystar kit with shock extensions and the ride is exactly the same as factory! And yes as said above, the 20" wheels will contribute to a little rougher ride, I'm running 37 x 12.5 x 17 Patagonia M/T's

So are you saying I should remove the factory spring isolator? Currently the truck sits extremely level which I like. Also, which or what shock extensions should I purchase? The 20" wheels and rough ride were to be expected. I actually would prefer a set of 17s with 35s but this truck came equipped as seen and for the price I couldn't not buy it.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I'm not sure about the DayStar kit, but with my metal spacers in my 2.5" Skyjacker kit, you reinstall the rubber isolator between it and the spring, then you install the shock extensions. Install the Fox stabilizer, and be sure it has had a PROPER front-end alignment. And if you need more, like mentioned the $60 MOPAR extended control arms might be necessary to help get a proper alignment. That could be a HUGE part of your issues. If that still doesn't help you, I don't know what will. These trucks ride good for what they are, but they are not a super-soft riding buggy that basically float with KING coilers or anything like that.

Used vehicles, you just never know what sort of jackleg or cheap-ass owned it before you did. That's why I stopped buying used vehicles almost 15 years ago. I got tired of spending money fixing someone else's fuck-ups, when I could be spending that money on upgrades and mods.

I run 20's and 37x13.50 E-rated tires, and my Jeep rides great.

 

[Renegade]

I'm not sure about the DayStar kit, but with my metal spacers in my 2.5" Skyjacker kit, you reinstall the rubber isolator between it and the spring, then you install the shock extensions. Install the Fox stabilizer, and be sure it has had a PROPER front-end alignment. And if you need more, like mentioned the $60 MOPAR extended control arms might be necessary to help get a proper alignment. That could be a HUGE part of your issues. If that still doesn't help you, I don't know what will. These trucks ride good for what they are, but they are not a super-soft riding buggy that basically float with KING coilers or anything like that.

Used vehicles, you just never know what sort of jackleg or cheap-ass owned it before you did. That's why I stopped buying used vehicles almost 15 years ago. I got tired of spending money fixing someone else's fuck-ups, when I could be spending that money on upgrades and mods.

I run 20's and 37x13.50 E-rated tires, and my Jeep rides great.

I would suggest that correcting suspension geometry come before a steering stabilizer upgrade. There are a lot of people who find the factory stabilizer sufficient when the steering geometry is correct. A “proper” alignment also doesn’t mean paying someone to do it for you when Jeeps are extremely easy to align with basic mechanic skills.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I would suggest that correcting suspension geometry come before a steering stabilizer upgrade. There are a lot of people who find the factory stabilizer sufficient when the steering geometry is correct. A “proper” alignment also doesn’t mean paying someone to do it for you when Jeeps are extremely easy to align with basic mechanic skills.

When I meant proper alignment, I meant one done on a modern machine by a competent mechanic. I know how to do all this stuff, as well...But most people don't have the knowledge, tools, or skills to, so it's easier to just pay someone $50 to professionally do it, and know that it's set properly.

An adjustable track-bar would help realign steering geometry and re-centering that front axle back 100% square under the front end. I plan on doing this, and a steering stabilizer next on mine...Maybe adjustable control arms...Or the Mopar extended control arms from the 2" lift kit.

 

[joshua27]

I went ahead and ordered the Rough Country 2.5" lift with shock extensions last night. Primarily because it's only 129 dollars and includes shock extensions and longer sway bar end links. I believe that'll fix me up. Also Rough Country is a local business so I should get it in 1 day.

 

[joshua27]

Installed the RC 2.5 level with shock extensions tonight and ride is markedly improved. Truck sits a little nose high but I’ve ordered some 3/4” spacers for the rear that I think will correct that.

 

[NC_Overland]

Glad it was an easy fix. It’s a good looking Gladiator.

 

[Thed]

Going back to 17's would hugely help, as well as some geometry-correction brackets just in case you wanted to go a few steps further.

 

[joshua27]

Going back to 17's would hugely help, as well as some geometry-correction brackets just in case you wanted to go a few steps further.

What would you recommend? I was considering purchasing an adjustable track bar.

Definitely considering going to 17s and 35s currently and/or regearing. The 37s are killing my MPG in the TN hills.

 

[Thed]

What would you recommend? I was considering purchasing an adjustable track bar.

Definitely considering going to 17s and 35s currently and/or regearing. The 37s are killing my MPG in the TN hills.

These seem to be of good quality and decently priced, and from a good name.

Since you moved the axle down (by installing a lift), you changed the geometry of the front control arms. A lot of companies get by this by selling you a pair of bars with a different length, but they're only tackling half the problem. Geometry correction brackets drop the mounting points of the control arms at the frame. This brings your control arms back to near-horizontal, like the factory had it. This is optimal if ride quality and handling is desired, especially if you don't want to pay for a full long-arm setup.

An adjustable track bar wouldn't hurt either, but remember, it only really solves half the problem (the length).

Sponsored