Can I get away with disconnecting just the driver side swaybar link.

[XraytecH]

On Rubicons, the links are still connected when the swaybar is electronically “Disconnected”.

So can I archive the same effect by disconnecting just the driver side swaybar link?

I ask because I have a JKS Quicker Disconnect coming in the mail. But the kit requires permanently modifying the axle on the passenger side.



I would like to avoid doing that.

I have a MOPAR 2” Lift on my Sport S

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[Renegade]

You will get contact between your driver side sway bar and your tie rod under articulation, when the driver side of the axle is up and the passenger side is down.

 

[Mjolnir]

No. Unless you want to bend and snap the passenger side disco, you need to disconnect both.

 

[XraytecH]

No. Unless you want to bend and snap the passenger side disco, you need to disconnect both.

Good not know but I’d still like to point out on the Rubicon’s the sway bar links are still connected when you activate the sway bar disconnect. So Rubicon owners still need to physically disconnect their sway bar links?

 

[XraytecH]

You will get contact between your driver side sway bar and your tie rod under articulation, when the driver side of the axle is up and the passenger side is down.

Okay makes sense

 

[MPMB]

On Rubicons, the links are still connected when the swaybar is electronically “Disconnected”.

So can I archive the same effect by disconnecting just the driver side swaybar link?

I ask because I have a JKS Quicker Disconnect coming in the mail. But the kit requires permanently modifying the axle on the passenger side.

I would like to avoid doing that.

I have a MOPAR 2” Lift on my Sport S

Technically, yes.

The side still connected to the sway bar will still "load" the bar, but without a second anchor point, the bar will just move freely.

You would have to test articulation to see if any suspension pieces would get bound up or interfere during compression/extension.

 

[Mjolnir]

Good not know but I’d still like to point out on the Rubicon’s the sway bar links are still connected when you activate the sway bar disconnect. So Rubicon owners still need to physically disconnect their sway bar links?

I do not have a Rubi nor would ever buy one as the electro disco is prone to being smashed (if you rock crawl) and i've seen too many people have theirs fail for no reason. SO I do not know how the actual mechanism works or anything like that. Sorry I can't be of help on this.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

I am wondering what you would hope to achieve by only unhooking 1. Is it a time savings thing? Because it's like 30 seconds to pull the pin and swing the link out of the way.

If you don't want to deal with the links at all you could get the RockJock Antirock.

 

[txrackack]

Good not know but I’d still like to point out on the Rubicon’s the sway bar links are still connected when you activate the sway bar disconnect. So Rubicon owners still need to physically disconnect their sway bar links?

Got this from jlwranglerforums but the information is still valid...

The actual swaybar is in 2 pieces. Each piece has a gear on the end, inside the housing under the front bumper. When engaged the gears are joined by a splined collar, making the bar act as one long bar. When disengaged the collar moves to one side allowing the bars to rotate independently of one another.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Good not know but I’d still like to point out on the Rubicon’s the sway bar links are still connected when you activate the sway bar disconnect. So Rubicon owners still need to physically disconnect their sway bar links?

But the halves of the bar are not connected. The right half can move and NOT move the left half. So they keep the links safe out of the way by leaving them connected. IF you disconnect just one, then the other wheel can move the sway bar way up or down on the other side.

 

[XraytecH]

I am wondering what you would hope to achieve by only unhooking 1. Is it a time savings thing? Because it's like 30 seconds to pull the pin and swing the link out of the way.

If you don't want to deal with the links at all you could get the RockJock Antirock.

The primary reason I ask is because the JKS Quicker Disconnect that I ordered requires permanently modify the passenger side axle swaybar link bracket.

On the Rubicon’s electronic disconnect, the sway bar links are not unbolted when the sway bar is “Disconnected”. I figured I can achieve the same with simply removing the pin on the driver side sway bar link.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The primary reason I ask is because the JKS Quicker Disconnect that I ordered requires permanently modify the passenger side axle swaybar link bracket.

On the Rubicon’s electronic disconnect, the sway bar links are not unbolted when the sway bar is “Disconnected”. I figured I can achieve the same with simply removing the pin on the driver side sway bar link.

If you remove the link on the driver side, the right side will still move the left end of the bar up and down as far as that end of the axle articulates - more than it normally would move because the left side can't stop it by holding onto the left end of the bar.
The Rubicon disconnect literally splits the bar in half so as the right wheel moves up and down, the left bar end moves independently with the left wheel. The sway bar twists like a mopar torsion bar spring from the early 60s. Take one end only loose and the bar is moved as far as it wants to move by the other wheel.

 

[XraytecH]

For the record everyone

I know how the Rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect works. It uncouples the middle of the sway bar.

 

[Sallaman]

I didnt want to modify my axles either… thats why i have been looking at the tereflex links… i cannot speak from experience but looking at the install instructions it doesn’t look like you have to modify the axles for those

 

[Gladiator_92]

I think these are the best option from metal cloak: https://metalcloak.com/jl-front-sway-bar-quick-disconnect.html

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