Horizantal headlight adjustment

[Stonesolo]

My passenger headlight beam pattern is angled toward the drivers beam. I notice this when it's foggy out. I can't find the adjustment screw for left or right. Do I have to take the headlight out to do this? This may have been posted before so I apologize it it has been.

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[ACAD_Cowboy]

Bad news time. US regulations only call for vertical plane aim and the presumption is that the lamps would be in plane with the radiator support and thus square to the centerline.

I'll give you a moment.

Okay so when I droped real lamps into my JK, european beam glass H4, I found that the horizontal plane alignment was absolute trash, drivers beam was squarish and the passenger beam was canted to intersect about 2.5 car lengths ahead which is why everyone says the lights are so bright and work so well... because you are being lied to.

But there is a solution. You need to buy the two aiming adjustment screws from an export model. Canadian models may work but any JL or JT bound for Europe or the near east will have these screws installed, and so it is in the film. It has been soooo long since I really monkeyed with them so I don't recall if the screw is different from the single US screw or not.

Once you install the screws you can do what you need to aim wise. Nearly no shops still have a lamp aimer any more so its hand aiming time.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

It's the method I use and it works very well. You may or may not have a useful feature in the beam shape to use which can make the process longer and more of a trail and error affair but knowing this much and using your own eyes you can eyeball (see what I did there) the fine adjustments.

Well aimed lamps even in hail the new dawn of the ages wattages aren't as agressive on oncoming eyes as poorly aimed lamps and the plethora of crappy LED lamps on the market.

 

[Stonesolo]

Bad news time. US regulations only call for vertical plane aim and the presumption is that the lamps would be 8n plane with the radiator support and thus square to the centerline.

I'll give you a moment.

Okay so when I droped real lamps into my JK, european beam glass H4, I found that the horizontal plane alignment was absolute trash, drivers beam was squarish and the passenger beam was canted to intersect about 2.5 car lengths ahead which is why every says the lights are so bright and work so well... because you are being lied to.

But there is a solution. You need to buy the two aiming adjustment screws from an export model. Canadian models may work but any JL or JT bound for Europe or the near east will have these screws installed, and so it is in the film. It has been soooo long since I really monkeyed with them so I don't recall if the screw is different from the single US screw or not.

Once you install the screws you can do what you need to aim wise. Nearly no shops still have a lamp aimer any more so its hand aiming time.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

It's the method I use and it works very well. You may or may not have a useful feature in the beam shape to use which can make the process longer and more of a trail and error affair but knowing this much and using your own eyes you can eyeball (see what I did there) the fine adjustments.

Well aimed lamps even in hail the new dawn of the ages wattages aren't as agressive on oncoming eyes as poorly aimed lamps and the plethora of crappy LED lamps on the market.

Dang...thanks for the reply.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

So since I'm a data hoarder, photos.

You need to order two second pivot screws and two new adjustment screws.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

Dang...thanks for the reply.

Bright lights and clean glass are what I love.

 

[Stonesolo]

So since I'm a data hoarder, photos.

You need to order two second pivot screws and two new adjustment screws.

Thanks!

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