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Are LCAs required for a 3.5” lift?

Alans17

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I’ve got my eye on a 3.5” lift which includes springs, shocks, a track bar and front and rear sway bar links. What doesn’t include is front LCAs. Is this important? Lots of people do spacers up front (myself included) without any other modification, but this is taller than those. Thanks.
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I would recommend them to bring caster back into proper range. The Mopar 2" lift arms are 1/4" longer than stock, and are very reasonably priced. They will still be a bit on the short side for a 3.5" lift, but should work if the cost is holding you back. If geometry correction brackets are being used, you won't necessarily need the control arms.
 

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Won't flex as much. Your caster will be way off which would cause the driving characteristics to change and you may have spring bowing.
 
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Alans17

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I would recommend them to bring caster back into proper range. The Mopar 2" lift arms are 1/4" longer than stock, and are very reasonably priced. They will still be a bit on the short side for a 3.5" lift, but should work if the cost is holding you back. If geometry correction brackets are being used, you won't necessarily need the control arms.
So I’m this situation, am I better off with new LCAs or geometry correction brackets?
 

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I’ve got my eye on a 3.5” lift which includes springs, shocks, a track bar and front and rear sway bar links. What doesn’t include is front LCAs. Is this important? Lots of people do spacers up front (myself included) without any other modification, but this is taller than those. Thanks.
Short answer, absolutely. You are not a rubicon, so depending on the kit you are going with, you may have closer to 5" of lift in the front as most kits measure off the rubicon and in the rear so they dont account for front end level.

With that amount of lift you're going to want at the minimum front upper control arms and most likely front lowers as well to help with spring bowing. You'll probably also want a rear trackbar to get that axle centered, a carrier bearing spacer to get a better angle on the rear pinion, longer brake lines, shocks, and down the road a front drive shaft potentially.

You're looking for a lot of lift so the parts list becomes way bigger to do it right and keep it driving and riding well and in spec.
 

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DocMike

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I opted for a 2.5 for that very reason.

It really depends on your shocks, but yes if you want max articulation that the front can provide you'll need a new drive shaft. Once you get past about 28.5 inches of extended shock length up front you're gonna want to look at a new drive shaft.
 

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Not to mention new brake line extensions. Just putting my 2.5 inch lift on had my rear brake lines stretched to the max.
 
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Alans17

Alans17

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It really depends on your shocks, but yes if you want max articulation that the front can provide you'll need a new drive shaft. Once you get past about 28.5 inches of extended shock length up front you're gonna want to look at a new drive shaft.
The extended shock length on this lift is 27.99”. This isn’t a high end kit (thus the lack of LCAs) so I’m assuming the 3.5” is over Sport height rather Rubicon.
 

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Depends. My Clayton 2.5 is based on the Rubicon height. People on here are saying I'll get 4 over stock Sport S. I will measure and find out.


The extended shock length on this lift is 27.99”. This isn’t a high end kit (thus the lack of LCAs) so I’m assuming the 3.5” is over Sport height rather Rubicon.
 

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The extended shock length on this lift is 27.99”. This isn’t a high end kit (thus the lack of LCAs) so I’m assuming the 3.5” is over Sport height rather Rubicon.
If that’s max extension front and rear, you won’t need to replace brake lines or a driveshaft.
 
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Alans17

Alans17

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Well I’ve got a bead on a good deal for 3.5”, but if it’s going to over complicate things and force a bunch of extra parts just to correct things then I don’t need it. Plus bigger tires aren’t in the budget until my 33s wear out. That may look funny.

The biggest part of satisfaction is not getting what you want. It’s wanting what you have.
 
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Alans17

Alans17

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If that’s max extension front and rear, you won’t need to replace brake lines or a driveshaft.
That’s promising.

Jeep Gladiator Are LCAs required for a 3.5” lift? 6C990986-A821-45AB-A459-F9D5D21FABD0
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