Questions regarding the Gladiator

[NachoRuby]

Please ignore this if what I’m about to mention includes features you don’t plan on using ever. Max tow or rubicon are quite important for the extra engine and transmission cooling you get with the towing package, and larger alternator, items difficult to add later. Rubicon also has heavier duty, wider axles, as does the sport s max tow, but also has front and rear lockers and front sway bar automatic disconnect motor. In my opinion, adding lockers is very expensive after the fact. If you think you’ll use them, they’re cheaper from the factory, and are warrantied. I’m unaware of a way to add a sway bar disconnect motor to a non rubicon. Adding lockers will likely void your axle warranty and is expensive. I’ve seen costs of upgrading sport and sport s to get to what a rubicon is stock, and it seems the money is similar, if not higher to retrofit. If one is just planning on shocks and springs, sport s might be a fine platform. If someone wants lockers, off road plus, and sway bar disconnect, I think you’ll spend less getting them from the factory. It is true we have a rubicon that is getting a lift and tires, but it’s extremely capable stock already.

Also, op mentioned a 6 speed. That already precludes the Max Tow package. But the warranty thing you mentioned is huge. I've been burned before modifying vehicles and having claims denied. I totally get the build it crowd. But many want the 3/36k and 5/60k warranty period, without dealer issues regarding modifications.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Perfect. Thanks. I, as promised in other threads with you, will try to get a good look later this month when my axles are torn apart for a regear and axle shaft upgrades in the front. And my price for a rubicon with leather, adaptive cruise, blind spot, 4.10:1 axles, lockers, and sway bar disconnect was obviously higher at 52k, a 16k difference. My point is only that If you want 4.10 or better, bigger tires, lockers, sway bar disconnect, and at least rubicon equivalent suspension, I believe that’s going to cost more than 16k aftermarket. And several of those things will also then maybe void portions or all of the drivetrain warranty.

In summary, I’m only discouraging base or sport purchases, if the intent is to build it to rubicon specs or better. I think one will spend more, and end up with less warranty coverage. If sport or overland is the end of one’s goals, by all means go that route. I’m just contesting the idea of starting a big build with a sport or overland.

Not sure how easy it will be to measure but when using a micrometer on tubing one must use the correct mic - a tube mic with a rounded anvil. But in this case I'd be pretty sure you won't be able to mic the tubes. Every indication I get is 10mm.

On the other equipment I suspect we're basically on the same page. People just need to decide what it needed vs. what is wanted vs. what people say you should have because they think it's needed. In my case I also looked at initial price vs. being able to spread the changes out over months or years vs. writing one big check up front. If I were making payments, I'd still do the adds later as I wanted or needed based on experience. I'd rather do that than buy something I later decide I don't use, don't need and paid more than I needed to on. I'm the sort - spread out the "maybe I'll want that someday".

Sounds like my wife and I may take mine to Florida this year so I'll probably be looking for a few things to deal with that area.

 

[brianinca]

My oldest son is 6'2" and has no problem sitting behind his slightly shorter Dad when we go hunting.

I wouldn't put anyone over 5'8" back there, but my teens, GF, Auntie etc had no issues.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My oldest son is 6'2" and has no problem sitting behind his slightly shorter Dad when we go hunting.

My son it somewhere about 6'2" himself and he sat behind me when they visited last summer - and I usually run with the seat clear back even though I'm only about 5'8". He was fine.

 

[Beemer533]

Perfect. Thanks. I, as promised in other threads with you, will try to get a good look later this month when my axles are torn apart for a regear and axle shaft upgrades in the front. And my price for a rubicon with leather, adaptive cruise, blind spot, 4.10:1 axles, lockers, and sway bar disconnect was obviously higher at 52k, a 16k difference. My point is only that If you want 4.10 or better, bigger tires, lockers, sway bar disconnect, and at least rubicon equivalent suspension, I believe that’s going to cost more than 16k aftermarket. And several of those things will also then maybe void portions or all of the drivetrain warranty.

In summary, I’m only discouraging base or sport purchases, if the intent is to build it to rubicon specs or better. I think one will spend more, and end up with less warranty coverage. If sport or overland is the end of one’s goals, by all means go that route. I’m just contesting the idea of starting a big build with a sport or overland.

Completely agree, and don't forget only the rubi has the 4:1 transfer case as well. Depending on what someone is looking to do the extra low range is pretty nice.

That's probably the one part of the rubi that would be the most expensive to duplicate.

That is the one thing I wish the Mojave had, but then it would just be a better looking Rubicon I guess ;-)

 

[WILDHOBO]

Completely agree, and don't forget only the rubi has the 4:1 transfer case as well. Depending on what someone is looking to do the extra low range is pretty nice.

That's probably the one part of the rubi that would be the most expensive to duplicate.

That is the one thing I wish the Mojave had, but then it would just be a better looking Rubicon I guess ;-)

I forgot about that, but it’s an excellent point. I have found that on certain trails, this transfer case makes things much easier. I’d really miss the 4:1, and you’re right, it would be expensive to add it.

 

[NC_Overland]

Completely agree, and don't forget only the rubi has the 4:1 transfer case as well. Depending on what someone is looking to do the extra low range is pretty nice.

That's probably the one part of the rubi that would be the most expensive to duplicate.

That is the one thing I wish the Mojave had, but then it would just be a better looking Rubicon I guess ;-)

My JKU Rubicon was a six speed manual. I’m glad it was or I would have considered the 4:1 TC to be a hinderance at times. The manual transmission allowed me to skip several gears.

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

My oldest son is 6'2" and has no problem sitting behind his slightly shorter Dad when we go hunting.

I’ll second that…my girlfriend’s father is 6’5” and he was “fine” in the back with the front passenger seat in the forward position. She was in that front seat and is 5’7” with no issues.

 

[WILDHOBO]

My JKU Rubicon was a six speed manual. I’m glad it was or I would have considered the 4:1 TC to be a hinderance at times. The manual transmission allowed me to skip several gears.

I skip gears all the time with my auto. I just put it in manual shift mode. I often run 4L in third and 4th gear on the 8 speed. You also get 4L speed control with the auto, and increments are controlled by the manual shift up down. Quite nice for long steep descents. First increment is 0.6mph.

 

[NC_Overland]

I skip gears all the time with my auto. I just put it in manual shift mode. I often run 4L in third and 4th gear on the 8 speed. You also get 4L speed control with the auto, and increments are controlled by the manual shift up down. Quite nice for long steep descents. First increment is 0.6mph.

You can start off in 3rd or 4th gear with the automatic In 4lo? That’s what I was talking about.

my overland has the manual speed control as well.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You can start off in 3rd or 4th gear with the automatic In 4lo? That’s what I was talking about.

my overland has the manual speed control as well.

Yep. Just move the shifter to auto stick and up shift. From a dead stop I’ll release the brake in 1st, but then go very quickly to 3rd when on a moderate paced trail. If it’s rock crawling, that’s obviously different. Let it crawl.

 

[NC_Overland]

Yep. Just move the shifter to auto stick and up shift. From a dead stop I’ll release the brake in 1st, but then go very quickly to 3rd when on a moderate paced trail. If it’s rock crawling, that’s obviously different. Let it crawl.

I bought my rubicon before I moved to CO and the 73:1 crawl ratio was nice on trails like the Redcone descent. In NC, I’d start out in 3rd or 4th and never used 1st or 2nd in 4lo

 

[WILDHOBO]

I bought my rubicon before I moved to CO and the 73:1 crawl ratio was nice on trails like the Redcone descent. In NC, I’d start out in 3rd or 4th and never used 1st or 2nd in 4lo

Yep. Totally depends on steepness and traction. I like being in a higher gear when the trail dictates 4L, but barely past the threshold of being fine with 4H. Anything slow where you’re really picking tire placement and I want 4l to keep that throttle under control. If it’s just rough, but feasible to go faster than 5mph, I tend to use 4H with off-road plus to improve shift points and throttle response.

 

[NC_Overland]

Yep. Totally depends on steepness and traction. I like being in a higher gear when the trail dictates 4L, but barely past the threshold of being fine with 4H. Anything slow where you’re really picking tire placement and I want 4l to keep that throttle under control. If it’s just rough, but feasible to go faster than 5mph, I tend to use 4H with off-road plus to improve shift points and throttle response.

Mine was a 3.8l and it was so weak at high altitude, up toward the tree line, that sometimes I’d put in in 4lo when running around on dirt roads just for more power. I’d just be in 4th and 5th gear. lol

 

[WILDHOBO]

Mine was a 3.8l and it was so weak at high altitude, up toward the tree line, that sometimes I’d put in in 4lo when running around on dirt roads just for more power. I’d just be in 4th and 5th gear. lol

3.8?

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