You really should be getting your bars to be parallel with your work surface, whether it is your driveway, shop floor, etc, and axles mimicking the same loads as they would be driving (vehicle on jackstands under axles...) This way you take into account the castor angles of your steering...
Yes, but you need to take the measurements at equal distances from the center. Also much easier to use a toe-bar (I made mine out of 90 angle aluminum. Set up and drilled holes in the angle stock to attach the bars to the hubs via wheel studs, centered on the hubs, then mark the tire diameter...
It's funny... when I ordered the RockJock steering a few weeks ago, shop owner asked if I needed them to install it, I said that I had that under control. He insisted on reminding me that I'd need an alignment afterwards, I told him I could handle setting the toe and centering the steering wheel...
I'll try to get a photo tonight, but it is actually lower than even the bestop sunrider... the only real downside, is only the front opens... the center has straps that hold it to the sport bar, and the back is held down with straps to the back cab wall.
I've been happy with mine so far, but on long trips, and winter I throw the hard top back on. There are a couple easily tweakable issues that may or may not appear, such as the front not seating well.
The top is very easy to operate, keeps the Jeep dry, and keeps Jeep-Hair away until after...
I put the RockJock steering kit in mine over the weekend... all I can say is wow, holy crap I cannot believe the difference in the feel driving it now! The steering is no longer loose and vague... it is tighter and more precise than any Jeep I've ever driven! (I'd say sports car like in...
I just installed the RJ kit (DL, TR, Stab relocation) under my JT this weekend, I do not have the issue that you speak of. Maybe the issue is where/how your stabilizer is mounted. With the Kit I have, the stab axle end mount is at the Track bar/sway bar mount, and only to about the middle of...