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Yeah, it works really well for sure. I just can't stand cutting into factory harnesses, especially up here in the salt capital

I needed to get brake and signal wiring, but I am avoiding cutting into my factory harnesses at all costs. I just got this t harness which plugs into the rear of the 7 pin. It gets you left/brake, right/brake, tail, reverse. I just cut off the 5 pin and spliced my wiring onto that. CURT...

Yeah, if that price was for 4 I would have been tempted when I had my stock rails.

I wouldn't pay that for a pair of steps, but having said that those things are milled out of blocks of aluminum which is both an expensive process and very expensive materials currently... It's a cool idea that looks well done and the price is unfortunately probably not too out of line...

Depends on what you are trying to secure I guess. If it fits smaller stuff goes in the center console or glove box. Larger stuff goes under the rear seat, although that's just out of sight, not locked. The only other place is behind the rear seats. Before I removed my rear seats I'd lock stuff...

Looks like a great time! How long was the trip once you started?

Yeah, there's definitely a bunch of different ways to go about it. I actually used this one without the progamer, it was a bit tedious but it's half the price.. https://a.co/d/0Q9eCTQ

It's a bit more than $10, but I used one of these timer relays in my Highlander since there was nothing commercially available. I just figured out what contacts the ESS button closed and spliced the relay in. I think I had the program set on power up (when the vehicle started) to wait 5...

Assuming there isn't a tazer installed check the harness going to the SGW module. One of the below modules might be installed in line. https://www.autostopeliminator.com/products/2020-jeep-gladiator-autostop-eliminator https://www.smartstopstart.com/jeep-dodge-chrysler-products.html

Yeah, I'm not sure why they did that. Seems like it would make more sense to include it with the black switches..

I live in upstate NY and I originally wanted the hard top for the winter (my only previous soft top experience was with my 77 CJ7...). I found a Mojave with everything I wanted that had just been built, only without the hardtop. As I am impatient lol, I bought it and had the dealer add the...

I've been running DD sc3 max fogs for over a year with no issues. As the previous poster pointed out, if it's 100 and sunny out, you don't need fogs.

What settings are you trying to change? When I get back home tomorrow I could see if they work for me.

I'm generally not a fan of white on vehicles, but I have to say that is a fantastic looking rig. Those wheels and stripes look awesome.. Thanks for the pics, I've been thinking about getting a set of these I just wasn't sure how they'd look. I have a couple of their key fobs and the wiper...

Glad it worked out for you. From my perspective the vehicle wasn't wrecked so I can't imagine replacing the engine will devalue anything. Now you just have an engine with 23k less miles on it.

Guess I missed the other responses, seems to have been covered already..

That's actually a different connection. We are referring to the fuse tap labeled "D" which should be for the DRL. For the offroad lights you are talking about that is the blue wire labeled "E". I have that connected to my spod as well and that works to control the offroad lights.

Mine are a bit low still, I need to get back in and adjust them a bit more.. I have the same "issue" with the fuse tap. I had mine temporarily hooked up to my spod and one day forgot to turn it on. I realized my DRL were still working though. I have a factory halogen truck as well. As far...

I kind of like the riveted industrial look. I'll bet it will look great painted black.

Those are for the trail rails. They are an m6x1 thread