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Are they available outside of the Mopar lift kit?

I’m so damn confused by lift kits and springs. Seems everything is measured on a rubicon or gives more lift than it’s rated for. Looking for a pair of springs to lift my Sport S max tow front end 2.5-3 inches.

Well, after a week of not working the sensor started reading again in my way to work this morning

Wheels came from Rocktrix, Tires from Amazon, Sensors “new” from a JL forum member. Mounted and balanced at Farm and Fleet. Doubt I have any warranty. The sensors are OEM and the truck has 5500 miles so the dealer might warranty it but they are installed in aftermarket wheels and tires so I doubt it

Wheels came direct from Rocktrix. Tires from Amazon. Sensors from a member of the JL forum. I’m sure I’m on the hook for this one LOL. No big deal

Love that it’s smaller and more nimble than the Ram 2500 I traded for it. Love that it gets better mileage than my Ram even lifted with 35s. Hate that the center console USB doesn’t work for Apple CarPlay and the dash USB is in a terrible spot. Who thought that right in front of the shifter...

I have an extra sensor so I’ll probably have the dealer swap it out when I take it in for service. Unfortunately I’ve got aftermarket wheels and tires so I doubt the dealer will fix it under warranty

there’s already a button for that

Does this mean I have a TPMS sensor gone bad? Or could it possibly be something else wrong?

Is it necessary to do both the arms and the brackets to get correct caster?

I currently have a 2 inch lift in the front. Looking to go up another inch to inch and a half. I’m wondering what method I should use to correct caster. Clayton and Metalcloak use adjustable upper arms. Molar uses longer fixed lowers. I’m also looking at control arm relocation brackets. I’ll be...

I’m running into this problem as well. It seems like everyone rates their springs for how much lift they give a Rubicon. So a 2.5 inch spring ends up being 3.25-3.5 on my Sport S. I’m about to buy the Metalcloak 2.5 inch leveling kit and expecting 3-3.5 inches out of it

Thank you. I’ll give that a try

Yes, but you don’t use a factory LED projector. There are aftermarket parts to use . You do have to disassemble the headlight housing though

I will check that, but I think they are installed correctly I have the factory headliners. Not an option box I would have checked, but the dealer had this one on the lot. Im pretty sure this is a seal problem I understand that I’m not driving something aerodynamic, but there should not be severe...

Title says it all. Went on a trip over the weekend, about 5 hours total at 72-76mph. Had lots of wind noise from the top of the windshield/freedom panels. Anything I could try to remedy this?

I’m not talking about putting LED bulbs into halogen housings.. I know the housing isn’t made for the bulbs and they scatter light everywhere. I’m talking about retrofitting the full LED projector into the housing. It was a big thing a few years ago with HID projectors in lots of different...

Yes, Doing a LED or HID projector retrofit in my wife’s stock halogens. I replaced hers with Oracles

Has anyone done this? I’ve got a pair of stock halogens I took out of my wife’s JLU. Kicking around the idea of doing a retrofit for my Gladiator instead of buying Oracles

I really want a set of these but I can’t justify the price for 2 sets. I’m researching DIYing something similar using RAM mounts. Probably won’t be as polished, but will only be 1/3 the price