It’s all relative, as they say.
Drop brackets will Improve the street ride, no exceptions. Adj arms on top of that will let you dial in caster, as well as center the tires in the wheel wells. I’d use the lowest bolt hole as long as the arms can adjust short enough to correct those other things.
I know what you mean.
Counter argument is when I fabricated mine, I probably spent close to that in sheet metal, paint, bolts. Not to mention my time, which would’ve billed out to way more than $30.
People hate the thought of Frankenstein but once you install a lift you realize there are either huge compromises or things like bump stops you have to tune for your specific vehicle to make the most use out of it anyway, so doing it from the start can be cheaper and better.
All the individual...
I haven’t seen the Rusty’s sway reinforcement. Looks like it still relies on that weak split OEM mount on the inside, I hope it’s as strong as the Metalcloak reinforcement.
So would you be gambling on the QT shocks? Would you be better just buying the fox anyway?
You can Frankenstein a perfectly functional lift if simple.
You can get springs for $3-600 and fox shocks for $650 or so, plus an adj track bar of your choosing… debatable if needed for 2.5”.
JKS owns fox...
sorry I missed your post before.
I bet you could deflate just fine without jacking up, given that people basically deflate the tires running beadlocks.
I just thought of printing rash rings today with talk that the Nomads are discontinued.
PLEASE post the rash ring files if you do that. I...
I’ve always loved the look of your truck?
Yea I wouldn’t be cutting my hood up for a snorkel.
For OP: Dust is a reason to have a snorkel on a Jeep, not water?
So can you get the full time 4wd with narrow axles? Or are they all upgraded to wide axles.
In other words will there be two versions of the CVs.
I couldn’t find the parts online, I’d be curious if you find some and find out if it’s a simple swap for the stock wide axle U joints.