Search results

OP, if you can, try and capture all your flushes and screen it out in the end and show us what debris was floating around in yours

Having to get rid of the dye in my system should answer anyone wondering ‘how many flushes are necessary to get rid of the old coolant?’ This experiment, by accident, shows 5 flushes but it still showed dye in the 5th flush. I didn’t worry about having a little dye left in there but that was 5...

Maybe this has been covered but the only ones I see complaining about over heating and derating are the diesel owners. Could it be they are dealing with air lock in their design causing overheating issues?

From the photo you can see the closest one had the dye and it got less and less toward the end.

Yes, 100% distilled water/calgon mix. From the photo, it looks like I flushed 5 times. The last one was just straight distilled water. I used 50/50 mix Cummins OAT coolant.

You don’t leave the calgon in there my friend! Let your final flushing flush that out so it’s just distilled water that’s draining out then fill up with the OAT coolant. Calgon isn’t a bleach, it’s just a water softener. Another trick with the Calgon is to dump it into your black water tank on...

My burping procedure is probably my own special procedure in that I too was aware of the possibility of air lock so I levelled the frame then as I was getting the coolant up to temp, I’d go back and forth with the jack and raise either passenger or driver’s side higher to get all the angles so...

Back in May of 2023 I flushed the coolant from my second engine (roughly 21k kms on the new engine) and I was surprised to see the techs used the old coolant from the first old engine for the new one! I knew they did because they put a dye in the old engine to find where the engine was consuming...

Yup, sounds like an electrical short but then when the pin heats up it makes contact and then when cools, it disconnects…. speculative theory of course.

The problem with this issue is that it can be an electrical or ground problem and not just an air lock issue like I’ve found several times. The other issue you have, being so close to your warranty ending is that no codes are stored and you can bet that even if your pump has quit and you tow it...

Air lock = overheating?? Air lock then moved out and level dropped. ?? Fill it back up and hope for the best. Hope the lost antifreeze isn’t in the oil.!!

I can relate to your wife being so mad too. My last vehicle was the 17 TRD Sport. I bought it new and I stuck with the same dealership that sold it to me. I’ve always just stuck with one brand or dealership instead of jumping around because I get to know the brand or people better if I stay...

I still hold that title! Don’t take that from me. OP, sounds like you have to stop relying on these dealership tech wanna-a-bees and just man handle your issues yourself. Be that critical thinker and proactive owner and dive into your issues yourself. Pre order star connector, Z array fuse and...

(21 JTR, 3.6, auto, 78k kms) I’m getting 14L/100, city/highway mix on calibrated 315/70/17 K03’s, 87 octane. (That’s 16.8-17mpg) There’s less rolling resistance with these K03’s than there was with the 2’s and I’m seeing much better Milage with these new tires.

I would think roll resistance has changed with the different tire. Also, if you haven’t yet, have the new size calibration done to the transmission and odometer. You may then see the numbers you’re used too.

If this were me I’d do what’s easily accessible first to eliminate possible reasons. I’d want to do a visual of the intake tube and follow it up to the throttle body (TB), then take the TB off and shine a light inside the upper intake to see how bad the oil residue looks in there (from the PCV)...

Catch cans don’t prevent blowby. If you have blowby, you’ll still have it with a can installed. It’s just capturing the oil so you’re not burning it and fouling up spark plugs, oxygen sensors. and cats.

No bolt to take out. It’s a single simple Torx screw. Put blue locktite on the threads and spin it in. The threads are fine threads so no muscle necessary. You’ll know when it’s enough.

Yes, and to those that just say “I just bypassed the sensor by using that Z automotive bypass locker sensor harness and I never have locker problems..” …you still have a magnet in there and they don’t attract metal filings forever. They still need to get cleaned off in order for the magnet to be...

OP, there’s a few other things to address while you’re inside the diff that no one has mentioned and that is if you have the Rubicon model, you have lockers and because you have lockers, you have to maintain the locker magnets and do a visual inspection of the locker sensors (one in each diff)...