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So the connectors can be popped out using two tiny flat head screwdrivers to release the clips under the metal rail. there is enough slack to relocate the green canbus connector. There is even room to relocate both connectors if you wanted to. I made a tiny metal box out of a shallow...

im going to look today to see how much length / play those cables have

I have some 3/16 wall square tubing i could slot both ends for wires and slide the stars inside the tube, then safety screw blanks on the ends.

my next project is adding tilt, shock, glass break, and two radar motion detectors to the factory alarm and locking down the can bus stars.

Those modules just pop of that mounting strip, maybe a heavy clamshell box with a slot for wires. Or maybe a 3000psi glitter cannon that fires as you rip down the glovebox. or maybe relocate the star connectors and replace them with dummy connectors.

Is anyone making a plate that inhibits access to the can bus star connectors behind the glove box? Like a steel plate with security screws? Wanted to check if i could buy one before i made one. This would prevent someone from using a DMAX (https://www.aetools.us) and programmer plugged into the...

The KMC’s are super nice but your limited on who will balance them.

looks like that area has been gouged

did something dig into it here?

have you ever replaced your ball joints?

I was originally looking at Artec but then i saw the 1/8" plate.

Im looking for feedback on this. Says 3/16" ,any issues with clearances? https://www.rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-jl-wrangler-rubicon-jt-gladiator-dana-44-axle-truss-package

miles on your 2021? a lot can wear out in two years.

It was an issue with the procal and the value of 40.0 for some reason

I’m going to try to see if I can get the value closer to the actual diameter from 38.0 without triggering the surge/ lurch issue. I wonder what the maximum allowed value is in the AEV procal snap software.

That’s is a good question, I had them aired up quite a bit to make them seat, I guess I should remeasure that. Would 0.3” cause surging and lurching at 40 mph. I thought that would be more of a limp issue but I guess I was wrong.

The Nittos measured out at 40” it’s just if you entered 40.0 as a value, at 40 mph it started surging and slowing down.

Still had the limp mode. Changing the AEV procal snap to 38” fixed that. Apparently if you enter 40” in the AEV procal snap it causes problems.

Well that fixed it!