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With the full Clayton 3.5" lift (around 5"), Apex 2.5 ton steering upgrades and booster pump on 37's at 80mph my JT drives better than it did stock. Theoretically, if one drove 90+ mph often, they "in theory" would rarely need two hands on the wheel with this setup...in theory...

I removed the aux battery soon after purchase...leaves a lot of folks stranded if you don't know how to bypass it WHEN not if it fails.

A bit of a resurrection here, but maybe it can help. See my sig for my setup and it is very similar to yours. I would not say it was a 'problem' but on a rough road, it was two hands firmly on the steering wheel for sure. On the highway, at 80mph, it took some effort to keep the Jeep inline...

Agreed...don't fear the gear on these little V6's

37s are hard on our rigs and the stock PS pump is not up to the job, even when it is healthy. It will 'work' for a while but it a matter of time. As others have commented, your best bet is to replace the pump and add the Apex booster, which I did. I also added the 2.5 ton steering kit from...

You can see in my sig my JT's setup and it drove pretty darn nice. I was having an issue when stopped in a parking lot, I had to really muscle the steering wheel to maneuver. When towing my travel trailer and parking it, this was becoming a big irritation. Also, when traveling down a rutted...

I am running the Clayton 3.5" Overland kit with Fox 2.0's and 37's and it rides great on road. I netted about 5" of actual lift. I recently added the Apex 2.5 ton steering kit and stabilizer with the power steering booster pump. Yesterday I was driving 75 mph and could let go of the steering...

According to quick Google searches, it looks like the tire/wheel combination from the 17" stock with 35x12.5 BFG to 17"x9" wheels and 37x12.5 is about 14 lbs

There is a drastic difference. I ran into a problem where I was trying to climb a bolder with the 37s and 3.73 gears, in 4lo, and was deep into the throttle but not moving. I ended up backing out and going around. After the 5.13s, I visited the same bolder and crawling up that same bolder...

It happens to the best of us when we try to justify the stock gears are fine with 37's... I was one who tried, lol. I am just poking fun, but consider them as almost a necessity if you plan on wheeling much, making any highway trips, or towing anything more than a lawn trailer. The difference...

About the best you can do is run aluminum wheels and not a "E" rated tire. I ran Pat MT's on my JK because of this and they were lighter weight than most other 35's out there. On the Glad, I am running heavy 37" Recon's but went 5.13s to compensate. So far, I am very happy with them.

I recommend 5:13s over the 4.88's with 37s. I am very glad we went that route...this V6 needs a lot of gear.

Elevation Jeeps on I-10 will pretty much take care of anything, including windshields. Adam is the owner and the shop is as good as it gets. We take our Glad to him for not only mods, but warranty work, sensors, even a theft repair through our insurance. We have graphics from Underground...

Since we are resurrecting this thread from a year ago when I traded my '21 PW for a '22 Gladiator... I now have the Gladiator on 37's with a Clayton Overland lift and 5.13 gears and so much happier with it than I was the PW. My wife took over the Gladiator, and I bought a '23 RAM 1500 4x4...

Don't feel bad...I spent just about that for an almost identical setup, but I have a solenoid running to my rear air bags. My pump has a switch to fill those or use air. But...and a big but...when you use the system, a light from the heavens shines and the sound of a church choir can be heard...

The smaller teeth in this picture or something similar. I assumed they were part of the factory limited slip, but I have not personally rebuilt one, so perhaps I am mistaken. I have seen 4 instances where they were broken off in a little more than a year and two myself with less than 35k...

I appreciate your write up and I am one that changes all those fluids at 25k myself. If you have the factory limited slip, it will probably come apart and sooner than expected. The shavings you are getting are unfortunately somewhat normal for the rear diff with the factory LS. My good friend...

I have had many rigs and many brand lifts on them. By far, my favorite is my current 3.5" Clayton Overland lift and currently with Fox 2.0 dampers. I had to cut a bit of cost on the shocks but they have turned out to be quite good.

A quick update: My wife had surgery and down for a couple months, so we have not gone wheeling much since the Clayton 3.5" went on. Last weekend, I took a trip out to the Texas hill country and got an hour or so to play around. When the Jeep was stock, I flexed it on a particular rock...

I tow often with the setup in my signature. Up to about 4k lbs, the 3.6L is sufficient to run about 65mph on the highway, but that is about it unless it is screaming. Above that, it starts to suck, lol.