Best suspension for 37s

[JTGuy]

I am wanting to do 37s and will possibly re do the suspension to do it. I want it to ride best on the highway and street. Cost is not factor but would like to keep it sane. Probably not coil overs. I am going to re gear to 4.88. I don't need to save $$ doing this so top quality is what I want in the 2.5 to 3.5 lift.

Sponsored

 

[Reddout99]

I'm running a 2" Mopar lift on 37s. I'd swear my lift gained me more that the 2" advertised price. Also running 1.75" wheel spacers to clear the OEM Overland wheels I'm running. Just took a 6 hour drive last weekend and the on-road manners were very comfortable. Tracked down the highway straight and true even with a strong side wind. Keep in mind, I use mine like it sounds you will, only. Mine is just a DD.
I am sure there are other suspension kits out there better than the one I'm running especially for those that do a lot of trail riding. But for my use, this setup works great for me.

Your sig shows that your JTR is ready to go, might just need the wheel spacers to clear the 37s

 

[JTGuy]

My Method wheels are a 0 off set so I don't need spacers. Maybe a 1 inch spring spacer and another bump stop spacer. I could always do Accytune Fox shocks for a dialed ride. It' my DD with some Berrago desert for fun.

 

[Warped]

AEV is probably the best suspension for on road use on their 2.5" lift. Check outthe 2 part suspension comparison from ReconOffroad on youTube. Here is part 2 with results.

 

[RodRecket]

AEV is probably the best suspension for on road use on their 2.5" lift. Check outthe 2 part suspension comparison from ReconOffroad on youTube. Here is part 2 with results.

I agree. AEV is probably one of the best handling packages. I've had a few suspension set ups and their shock spring package is my choice for DD/weekend warrior

 

[whysoserious]

I am wanting to do 37s and will possibly re do the suspension to do it. I want it to ride best on the highway and street. Cost is not factor but would like to keep it sane. Probably not coil overs. I am going to re gear to 4.88. I don't need to save $$ doing this so top quality is what I want in the 2.5 to 3.5 lift.

I am sure you already know, but on-road/off-road ride quality is to a degree very subjective. You'll have one person say Falcon shocks are the best and another say they are junk. Same with lifts. Have you thought of just starting with adding the 37's with your current Mopar 2" lift to see how it performs? As for me, I have a 3.5" MetalCloak kit in my garage waiting for tires (37's). I've had Metal Cloak before (2017 JKUR) and find it to be a very fine system, both on and off road. I sold it to a friend and he absolutely loves the way it drives. There are a few others, like Clayton, that have a very loyal customer following, likely for a good reason.

You might also see if there are a variety of suspensions in a local Jeep club that you can check out. Jeep folk are pretty accommodating when it comes to giving someone a ride to see how it performs.

 

[pcrawfordpt]

RockJock Pro 3.5. Get their Geometry Correction brackets and Johnny Joint Axle kit as well. If you’re really not concerned with budget, get their High Steer Knuckle kit. You will not be disappointed.

 

[JTGuy]

Well, ok I'll just jump in with the tires and see if it rubs. I have a local place to full flex it and turn the steering wheel to check it.
I know it will be close and if it rubs hard I'll add some bump stop spacer. Then I can add a spring spacer to get travel back and some height or just replace the springs. Another can of worms. If needed I will weigh it and contact Accutune for some proper shocks.
The 37s will be 2 inches more in diameter so will need a full inch more than the 35s. I think I have about 1/2 inch of clearance on the 315s at full stuff and wheel turned to lock. As you can see the 37 is much bigger than the 315. I hope the 4.88s bring back the performance. BTW,, the 37 only weighs 1 pound more than the 315.

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

Well, ok I'll just jump in with the tires and see if it rubs. I have a local place to full flex it and turn the steering wheel to check it.
I know it will be close and if it rubs hard I'll add some bump stop spacer. Then I can add a spring spacer to get travel back and some height or just replace the springs. Another can of worms. If needed I will weigh it and contact Accutune for some proper shocks.
The 37s will be 2 inches more in diameter so will need a full inch more than the 35s. I think I have about 1/2 inch of clearance on the 315s at full stuff and wheel turned to lock. As you can see the 37 is much bigger than the 315. I hope the 4.88s bring back the performance. BTW,, the 37 only weighs 1 pound more than the 315.

+1 for Accutune. I got my Fox 2.5s from them and they’re great. Definitely an improvement on-road from a monotube but the off-road handling is just out of this world for me, particularly at speed on washboard type terrain. The one bounce rebound makes me chuckle every time over bigger bumps, raised RR track crossing, etc.

If I had money for potential extensive repair, I’d 100% jump this thing lol

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

You may also want to consider a set of shocks from Wayne at Alltech.

 

[MrClortho]

I am running the Clayton 3.5" Overland kit with Fox 2.0's and 37's and it rides great on road. I netted about 5" of actual lift. I recently added the Apex 2.5 ton steering kit and stabilizer with the power steering booster pump. Yesterday I was driving 75 mph and could let go of the steering wheel. It is smooth and solid.

 

[JTGuy]

I have noticed that the 37s ride better than the 315s did. It doesn't rub with just the 2 inch Mopar lift and I do like the lowest lift without rubbing. Now to re gear and do the Fox 2.5 with remote from Accutune.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Everyone wants to credit the shock and spring setup from aev for the ride quality, it's the drop brackets. I have tried dozens of suspension combinations on various Jeeps over the years from full high end kits to various spring and shock combos to full on long arms. I don't care which mid arm kit you go with, wether it has 8 adjustable arms with fancy joints, or high end fox shocks, it won't ride as well as any Jeep with front control arm drop brackets short of going to full long arms. The arms at a steep angle transfer a bunch of the road force and/or obstacle impacts directly into the frame as they try to push backwards instead of straight up. Flat control arms transfer forces vertically where they can be absorbed and controlled by the shocks and springs. There are very few kids that come with drop brackets but you can add them to your favorite kit. I'd go with the jks kit as it comes with drop brackets and an adjustable track bar and can be had with fox 2.5 shocks. It also comes with sway bar disconnects are needed if you don't have a Rubicon in my opinion. https://www.extremeterrain.com/jks-...d-coil-lift-kit-fox-25-shocks-jspec176ps.html

 

[whysoserious]

I have noticed that the 37s ride better than the 315s did. It doesn't rub with just the 2 inch Mopar lift and I do like the lowest lift without rubbing. Now to re gear and do the Fox 2.5 with remote from Accutune.

Wondering if you wouldn't mind measuring from the top of your tailgate, to the top of your ARE topper? Looking for a clearance measurement for my garage.

 

[MrClortho]

Everyone wants to credit the shock and spring setup from aev for the ride quality, it's the drop brackets. I have tried dozens of suspension combinations on various Jeeps over the years from full high end kits to various spring and shock combos to full on long arms. I don't care which mid arm kit you go with, wether it has 8 adjustable arms with fancy joints, or high end fox shocks, it won't ride as well as any Jeep with front control arm drop brackets short of going to full long arms. The arms at a steep angle transfer a bunch of the road force and/or obstacle impacts directly into the frame as they try to push backwards instead of straight up. Flat control arms transfer forces vertically where they can be absorbed and controlled by the shocks and springs. There are very few kids that come with drop brackets but you can add them to your favorite kit. I'd go with the jks kit as it comes with drop brackets and an adjustable track bar and can be had with fox 2.5 shocks. It also comes with sway bar disconnects are needed if you don't have a Rubicon in my opinion. https://www.extremeterrain.com/jks-...d-coil-lift-kit-fox-25-shocks-jspec176ps.html

There is some good insight here and you understand the force vectors translating through the control arms to the frame and suspension. I have run drop brackets on a 3.5" system before that did not have them, and there was an improvement in stability and ride quality, but they hit stuff. They are a good option, and I would do it again if I was starting with an existing kit.

I have run over a dozen lifted rigs in the last 30 years and nothing has compared to the current Clayton Overland Plus kit on my JT in ride quality and strength. I am only running Fox 2.0's (ran out of money at the time, lol) and it is still wonderful. My other rig was a 5" Rock Krawler long arm Wrangler until I sold it a few months ago, it did not hold a candle to the Clayton kit's ride, but did flex a little more.

The JKS kit retains the stock control arms that look like a toy my dog would play with. When one starts delving into the realm of 37's or larger, it is something to consider. The Clayton arms are seriously heavy duty and contain bends for flattening out the arm to the ground and allowing more tire clearance under full lock. When my wife drives 90+mph on 5" of lift on 37's with one hand on the wheel comfortably, smoother than a stock Gladiator, I smile. Or, when we hit the unexpected hole at night when wheeling, it is piece of mind.

Sponsored