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Hmmm ... any recent aftermarket installs. Don't ghost us on this one ... let us know what they find.

Report back once you have logged some miles ... I switched from the 2.0's to Bilstein and I feel the improvement was notable. The Fox's are valved way too soft.

How did it settle even with the HD springs ... isn't the Alu Cab something like 1100 lbs?

The Fox OEM's and even the 2.0's IMO are valved way too soft. I'm currently on a set of Bilstein's and I personally feel they are a better shock. They are a bit harsher around town, but everywhere else they out perform the Fox. My suggestion is to take the warranty option or visit Northridge and...

I think this variable differs by region ... IDK. I do know that here in the PNW with my last three rigs I have consistently seen a 2-3 MPG difference between Winter and Summer.

I think he was being rhetorical .... sounds like he needs to take a breath and think this through.

you might be able to relieve some of that stress (heat) with a regear ... not much else can be done with out the Max Tow package. A Max Tow grille might bring some some additional air flow?

Not sure if this helps ....

I originally had a Mopar kit on order ... after 2+ months and their inability to deliver moved me over to an Evo kit. After installing the Evo and completing all of the geometry adjustments it made me realize how incomplete the Mopar kit really is. You do need adjustable track bars (front/rear)...

I agree ... I've been running the 2.0's and recently installed an Evo lift that came with Bilstein's. IMO the ride is improved with the Bilstein's. They are a bit harsher on the high frequency bumps, but better everywhere else and the rig drives more sure footed.

There is a YT comparison video posted between the S&B system and stock. Don't get me wrong ... I think S&B make some quality products, but in this case ... or on the dyno there was an actual performance decrease based on the numbers. Other systems may vary ....

My 20' JT does not have it and my wife's 21' JL does not ... and it's not like we are hear hearing vast reports of JT's or JL's rolling over. I believe it was added simply to achieve a certain rating.

Sounds like you either misunderstood what your build spec is or were over sold ... under geared and under cooled. I can flog the crap out of my JT with the actual Max Tow package at HWY speeds and over mountain passes pulling 3000 lbs and with gear in the bed ... never a single cooling issue.

Dead Pedal (but won't work on a manual) ... and Desert Does It Seat Jackers to correct the seat pad angle (I would like to speak with the decision maker at Mopar who decided to not put angle adjustment on the seat pad)

It's all relative ... lower used values usually equates to lower new purchase prices. You know what they say about buying high and selling low .... any vehicles purchased within the last two years were purchased high ..... ALL vehicles are for for utility and fun ... not investment.

If it didn't sag you would be driving a brick every other day ... look into air bags or extended bump stops like Sumo. I started with air bags .... I eventually had issues with the air lines and pulled them. I'm now using Sumo bump stops with a spacer block added to the rear when I tow ... seams...

Bad .... No ... Maybe incomplete. IMO it would be much better with adjustable control arms so you can dial in your castor and pinyon angles. Track bars might not be completely necessary, but again recommended so that all geometry can be corrected.

My first thought ... fuse array

... it's this in-fighting between the trims that I find annoying ... and I'm not speaking of the tongue and cheek jabs for fun. I've started to un-follow certain FB groups where this activity is more prevalent.

Another thing to check is control arm torque ... the spec is rather high and IMO a lot of the aftermarket specs are too low. I was experiencing a metallic sound up front and found my driver side upper control arm to be under torqued.