looks great and the ride surprised me as well with the Clayton kit but I’m running the falcon sp2 3.3s and it is so much better than stock on my Mojave
This is my first gladiator and it had 17x9 -12mm offset with 35x12.50 general grabber XM3 and I liked the looked at the time but definitely prefer to keep this one more flush
I ran the badlands 12k on my sport s and had quite a few pulls on it including pulling a car out of somebodies yard for a buddy. It was sitting on 4 flats and had to pull it out of the hole it was in and then move and rehooked to spin it 90 degrees to get it out of the gate. So it is definitely...
You and me both, it has been driving me crazy as well because I lucked out and can run my factory wheels which are the optional Mojave wheels also came on the far out edition but looking to get a wider wheel to better suit the tire. Most people say 0, -6, or -12mm but I like to keep mine tucked...
I have ran a couple different setups on mine
1.5” Clayton on 35’s, with factory shocks and it didn’t take long for the front to settle way to much for me
here is where it is at now with 3.5” Clayton front and 2.5” rear with falcon sp2 3.3 shocks and the same 35’s and the ride is amazing even...
I agree on going with the 3.5” kit, I had the 3.5” on my sport S before I got the Mojave and it would fit 37s but didn’t look out of place with 35s either. That 37” BFG will measure about 35.5” tall when on the vehicle so you will get the 37” tire so to speak and have plenty of clearance
As far as the shocks go I would probably stick with the 2-3” shocks as it will lift about 2” after settling
I ran this kit on my Mojave and ran shock extensions and they worked fine but it’s turned into a 3.5” full Clayton lift on mine so be careful
I used an impact grade 1/2” drive extension and it was tight at the bumper but opened up once I got passed that part and once you get it on there it is a little loose but has more than enough contact to get the spare down.
I was like you and tried a 3/8” drive extension first and ran into the...
They have always been that way, I noticed it on my 2020, so checked the Mojave when I got it and it’s the same. As well as my brothers 23 rubicon. So next time I was at the dealership getting filters from the parts dept I walked down the gladiator row and was checking them but yeah it tapers in...
I say it was a good trade, like I always say to people it’s your money and your jeep do as you please because they ain’t working for the money or paying the payment and insurance. So good on you, JT looks great btw
Is the battery an AGM battery? Mine came on and the dealership replaced the aux battery and the main battery but they put a standard lead acid battery in and I took it out and put an AGM battery in and the light went away immediately
I saw about a mpg difference between the factory 33s and the 35s on it now 1.2 avg to be exact but I live where the interstates are 75-80 mph. With the 35s I run in 8th with the occasional down shift to 7th and sometimes 6th. My wives xtreme recon has 4.56s on 35s and it holds 8th no problem...
Everybody builds their jeeps their own way, you will have the occasional nay sayers but it’s not their money building it and they ain’t the ones driving it. With that out of the way is it 3.73 or 4.10 gearing? If it is 3.73 then you will probably want to go leveling kit and 33s if you want to...
Well my OCD got the best of me! I ordered the 2.5” Clayton springs and the falcon 3.3 fast adjust shocks.
from going over all the threads here I’ll be running them on soft mode and around a 2.5 for highway use as we have a lot of high winds and gusts and 2.1 for the trails
When the fuses, relays and JCase fuses are installed they aren’t always seated fully so it comes from the factory loose and with vibrations and bumps on the road they lose connection and can’t feed power where they need to and that’s when you start having a bunch of issues