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These might be a good option... I'm looking into doing a Frankenstein lift for my JTRD and I'm trying to stay as much Canadian/American made as possible. The more local, the better. Bilsteins are cool, but I've heard some pretty bad reviews about them not handling up to the Canadian weather...

Not quite sure if this is really a big deal, I'm obviously no expert on that. Engines are designed to get a little bit wet... when you're driving on the highway in rain, etc its going to get soaked. Would be interested in hearing from someone who knows a bit more about the potential issues with...

THIS is #1 comment for anyone who asks this question. Gladiators, Wranglers, etc are insanely capable out of the factory. More capable than most who own them are willing to attempt. That is all that matters. Your Gladiator will take you to so many places with no issues.

Interesting, didn't know PS made louvers. I had a 2015 Wrangler with the 3.6, and one of the biggest things I noticed that helped for heat distribution is vented fender liners. The amount of heat that came out of those fender liners after I swapped to vented ones was insane.

Highways around here are all 100kmh (62mph) and I'm usually sitting at around 105 (65mph). It's about all the Jeep likes to do with being on 37s before the tires like to give me a bit of a shimmy, and honestly, I'm not in a rush. I take it easy, cruise control whenever I can... I let off the gas...

This is indeed a great question. I have it on my list of things to do in order to help with the heat issues.... but it'll be later this summer. I presume there has to be some type of venting so its supposed to help with heat dispersion, just not quite sure how they route the water drain.

Can't recommend the Pro Comp Crawlers enough... if you dig the look, they're great rims. All of them required almost no weight to balance and man they were cheap. I got all 5 on sale for under $600 CAD ($430 USD).

The Motobilt vents have drip trays to stop water from going right in, the heat from the engine keeps it pretty dry.

I reckon the Mojave suspension is really weight-sensitive, so you should see a pretty big difference. I know the Rubicon comes with insanely soft suspension and any weight just makes it drive so much different.

Whatever Google uses it is what it is haha, I had no idea there was multiple gallons LOL.

We do not use gallons in Canada, I was just doing the basic conversion since I know the majority of the audience is from the USA. The rest of the world uses liters ?

For another comparison... I just looked up the Method 70x series rims for the Gladiators. They are 30lbs and $100 vs $300+ and unrepairable, so really you're only a few pounds difference between alum/steel on average. 100% agree on the Mojave stuff! This Gladiator is being built out for...

I'm rocking the Pro Comp 97 Crawlers with 4.25BS, they weigh 32 lbs each. On 37x12.50R17 Falken AT4W HDs that are 78 lbs a piece. So in total about 110lbs a tire for HD 37s on steelies. The stock Rubicon rims weigh 27 lbs... I'm not fussed over 5 lbs per wheel. These allow me to do trail repairs...

I don't think you need to upgrade the sub, upgrading just the speakers and poly-filling the sound bar significantly improves the sound stage in my opinion. Start with replacing your dash / sound bar speakers (You can replace the lower dash ones if you want, but most people just leave them). I...

This is exactly why I run steelies LOL. If they can't be hammered back into place, they're $100 a pop.

Stock head unit, 100% as far as I know. What is your concern with the sound system specifically? Upgrading just the speakers and doing a bit of EQ work will make it sound significantly better that you may not even want to do the sub. Though this 100% depends on the sound stage you're looking...

21 JTRD on 37s (Falken AT4ws, 30psi), open bed, and no major weight additions yet, and I'm getting the following... Around Town: 11-12L/100KM (19-21MPG) Highway: 8-9L/100KM (26-29MPG) I live at sea level with no major elevation changes, so that likely helps. Also running an EOC transmission...

From an analysis perspective, perhaps. I haven't done any analysis on my RAM EcoDiesel, about to do an analysis on my pre-tune oil and then will do it a few times after. I noticed significantly cleaner-looking oil in any diesel I've owned after deletion, though of course it'll still be darker...

I don't have the EOC on my Gladiator, but I did on my previous RAM that I upgraded to the Gladiator from. The oil was significantly cleaner, it was better, good bit more power, and a lot more fuel economy. You can find a lot of good information on the RAM forums that have had the EcoDiesel for...

I don't think this is accurate, at least not tunes from Canada and especially not if it's from EOC. Stage 1 - Disables EGR electronically, better fuel economy and 20-30hp/tq on base level Stage 2 - A physical full emissions delete Both tunes either electronically or physically delete the EGR...