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Your springs shouldn’t squeak. Are you sure all your suspension components are torqued properly?

Might be the FAD…

They’re starting to show up.

T-case chain should last the lifetime of the Jeep. At only 26k miles, I would look elsewhere first.

As you do what is stated, you will need to provide extra support to the axle assembly to keep it from flopping backward. An extra jack under the pinion may help, then adjust as needed.

I’ve had 5 Pentastars, with as many as 144k miles. Never had a cracked oil filter housing. It’s either luck that I haven’t had a problem, or the crack is a symptom of over tightening. I believe it’s the latter.

Bleeding brakes isn’t too bad, as long as you have a helper. One person depresses the brake pedal and hold it while the other opens and closes the bleeder, then repeat several times.

Sounds like the brake shield to me too. They could have bent it installing the new tire/wheel.

Sway absorbers

Does it bother anyone else that future vehicle production is being dictated by union contracts rather than technology advances and market demand?

I’ve done 5 repairs on that, and I don’t believe so. The rocker tick is usually more pronounced. It’s obvious. I’m not saying it’s not the earliest indication, but that just sounds like normal valvetrain noise right now.

The JL gets the M200 rear axle in Sport and Sahara trims, and I think all JTs have the M220. They may have different outers.

I ran a set in my Rubicon, and can confirm that JT Rubicon and JL Rubicon shafts are interchangeable, but I don’t see narrow JT rear axles listed on the Dana/Spicer part page. Maybe the JL non-Rubicon shifts aren’t interchangeable with the JT non-Rubicon...

The group also owns JKS.

I’ll own mine. I continued to try to drive it after breaking the u-joint. That’s when it pressed the ball joints out. Won’t do that again. I gained the experience of ball joint replacement on the trail though, so that’s positive.

Broken u-joint, then ball joints popped out. The knuckle stayed in tact. You can tell that it’s still attached to the tie rod. I’ve done a similar thing to mine, although I was not giving it a bunch of gas. I was just bound up on an undercut rock. The ball joints really aren’t held into the axle...

?This is a definite thing.

I wheeled mine hard on 37s and 4.10 gears for 3 years without upgrading a single steering component. The JT/JL tie rod and drag link are quite a bit stronger than prior generations. The only things I broke in the front repeatedly were axle u-joints. Those led to broken or bent axle shafts, and...

75W-140 in the rear if you tow a lot.

Rear sway bar link at the frame. It’s common, and causes that sound.