That's scary. I am not sure if those are stretch to yield bolts, but mine looked pretty bad when they came out. The amount of noise that a couple of them made while being loosened was deafening. Here are the bolts that came out, and you can see the new grade 8 (maybe) bolts in the other photo.
I'm sure I'm in the minority, but I tend to prefer E-rated tires. I know they're overkill, but I like that about them. I don't feel like the ride suffers that much, and I keep mine at 37 psi.
I installed my Rock Hard sliders on a cold day in January with no heat at all. I loosened the body mount bolts with a breaker bar then buzzed them out with an electric wrench at full speed. Then I read about people breaking them and that I should have been careful. I guess I was lucky.
I had a Diamondback HD cover that worked great, but I can no longer recommend them. I have had two of them. The first was really good and held up great. By the time I bought the second one in 2023, their quality had gone down tremendously. The fit and finish was no longer what you would...
They will, but I think he was implying that when they are new, you might want to disassemble them to completely grease them properly. I did not. Mine took a substantial amount of grease through the zerks when I first installed them.
My neighbor has an ecodiesel and took me for a ride in it...
I think the nvh from the ecodiesel will be much greater than anything he would get from Johnny Joints. The ecodiesel does not let you forget you're driving a tractor, err, truck.
3.5" lift with 37s, 17x9 with -38 offset (3.5" backspacing). I reused my stock Mojave shocks with shock extensions. The truck drives as good or better than stock.
When you add skid plates to the bottom of a vehicle, and they are bolted to the frame in multiple locations, that skid plate can become a stressed member. Any flexing of the frame can cause the skid plate to twist. Is it possible that your skid plate bolts are not all tightened down?
You can kind of calculate by figuring the amount of lift you are doing. That lift is going to be at the differential end of the driveshaft. The carrier bearing is sort of in the middle, so you would want the drop spacer to be around half of the lift amount. You can calculate it with some...
Just take a look up under there. There are two bolts that go straight up through the carrier bearing support into the bottom of the bed. You just put a spacer between the support and the bed and put in longer bolts. It's pretty simple. I never had any vibration, but I installed the spacer...
Yep! After I bought mine, I started looking around my garage and found several things I could have used instead of buying the Teraflex. It's like I paid $25 for the bolts.
Why wouldn't you install the drop spacer? It realigns the two halves of the driveshaft and gives it a better starting point before the rear end droops. There is no downside to installing one, and it literally takes 5 minutes to install. (a lot less time that the amount that you've spent...
I have the Teraflex. It's cheap and works great! If I had it to do over again, I would probably make my own by making a stack of six 1/4" thick pieces of steel (like the Rusty's offering). Probably would have cost about the same to make as the Teraflex.