I'm going both diesel hard-mounted interior heater and electric heater. The diesel heater will be for when it's really cold (my JT is a diesel) and the small electric heater (maybe blanket) for the not-so cold nights running off my lithium bank.
Sorry didn't take a pic nor tape any sticks etc to measure. Was just eyeballing. I had the sway bar disconnected, I'm on stock Rubicon suspension for now. 45 deg across a large ditch, so whole truck was resting on two opposite corner wheels. Then rocked back and forth. It was a little more...
Mules, I took my gladiator out with my RLD bed cap and did some max flex testing between the cap on the bed and the cabin. Looked to be around 1" of lateral movement/twist differential between them. How did you account for that flexibility in your design and keep it weather proof?
So just to update after I wiped off the oil a few thousand miles ago from the pic two posts above. ZERO oil! So looks like it may have just been some assembly oil/lube. I was kinda leaning that way as when I felt it, it didn't feel or smell like engine oil.
Was thinking about deleting my diesel JT equipment after my warranty runs out, but curious to see how many states will end up doing stuff similar to this:
https://www.thedrive.com/news/diesel-ram-owner-forced-to-scrap-truck-over-deleted-emissions-equipment
Nice, I plan to do the same. Leave the very back my tailgate relatively free for larger items like the fridge that I can load from the outside via the tailgate.
Very cool.
Can I ask what glue and carpet did you use? Did you bother with any insulation or you glue the carpet directly to the fiberglass?
Did you use high-temp glue? I've noticed in previous projects I've done, stuff will peel up/off with non high-temp glue.
Not sure what "articles" you read but EV battery life is not 100K miles. There are tons of Teslas out there with 200-400K miles on their original battery.
https://insideevs.com/news/559261/tesla-models-p85-1500000-kilometers/
EV's are going to run circles around ICE vehicles when it comes to...
I'm surprised no one that I can find online has cut the rear cab bulkhead and cap plus the front of the truck bed and a bed cap to mirror up and use an accordion bellows to make it weather tight. That's my plan (using an RLD bed cap) for a self contained/efficient deep remote expedition rig...
I've read that they've had failures when they first tried to clean the lines. Apparently there were still metal shavings after the cleaning so they went to the "replace everything" approach.
Does the engine need to come out to replace this pump? If not, how much stuff needs to get removed in order to get to it?
Dealerships do terrible work and barely put stuff back where it was, so curious how much stuff I'd have to double check if they put a CP3 in mine.
28 MPG IN TOWN? Whaaaa....
I get like 21 in-town and I don't exactly floor it. It's much better on the highway, closer to like 26-27 AND I use additives/cetane booster. Stock JTRD with a RDL bed cap.
It's been great. Super sturdy and people say how badass it looks. Only thing is metal painted black gets HOT in the sun... as to be expected. I plan to do some insulation on the inside I think.
Ugg I wish the Baja Boss came in 38's. So for me it's either 37" Baja Boss or 38" Ridge Grapplers. But I think the general consensus now is the Baja Boss A/T is slightly better than the Ridge Grapplers.
Funny how these reports are all over the board. I just towed my Camaro ZL1 1LE (3,800 lbs plus 2,200 lb trailer for a total of 6K lbs, or about maxed out) over 500 miles with my JTRD on a low 90's F day and didn't have any heat/derating issues. Engine oil temps/coolant didn't even leave the...