Was going to try those but ended up building these for 1/3 of the cost of brackets, and they work with my existing Yakima trays. That saved me additional $250-300. Those mounts will certainly look better.
If and when he hits the trails, he’ll lose a fender.
37s fully stuffed on Rubicon with Mopar lift plus 3/4” spacer. Subtract 2” in fender height and add 1.5” in tire diameter. Bye fender.
I think Kaeo has the higher Rubicon fenders. IMO, 3” lift on front of Rubicon with 35s will be too much fender gap. I have 37s on Mopar 2” plus 3/4 spacer (and winch), and it looks pretty proportional.
I think your set up looks good and proportional with standard height fenders on 35s.
Kudos man! I’ve mountain biked a lot of that trail with Hymasa and Captain Ahab trails there and always thought it would be super tough except for side by sides
Glad you guys made ok! I’ve done Hells Revenge and not ready to brave the Escalator yet.
Was back in Moab this weekend to ride my mtn bike and do Top of the World. Driving on Kane Creek Rd, I saw a mangled Jeep that fell of Moab rim with officers on site. 2 guys were killed on Saturday. Very sad.
I don’t think so but it’d be closer. Without other mods besides lift and tires, Rubicon will have the steel rear bumper, sliders on side and rear, and sway bar disconnect motor.
Amen. Forgot to mention that Sport or Overland models will have better results compared to the Rubicon or Mojave, which weigh 400lbs more out of the box
Good feedback and glad it’s working out for you! Just apples and oranges from Florida to Idaho or higher elevation - I have experience with both. If my JT were still in TX, I’d be on stock 4.10s with 37s. Being in Utah now, I regeared to 5.13s.
Naturally aspirated engines lose ~3% for every 1k...
Adjustable front track bar recommended, especially if you’re going to 38s. You’ll want extra sturdiness from aftermarket track bar. I threw on TB reinforcement bracket while I was doing it. My rear track was almost even still.
Relocation brackets - depends on use case if you wheel in rocks with...
You should be generally fine. Depends on what you call a bypass. Example, Metal masher has some serious level 7-9 obstacles (Widow Maker is one) that only seriously built rigs or dedicated crawlers do and that you bypass. Even Fins and Things has a few lines that I wouldn’t take due to departure...
I started front support bolt by hand loosely because the nut is inaccessible when skid in place. Then started control arm bolt (had to thread it in a bit because it was snug) followed by rear support bolt. Nuts have self retention so you don’t need to hold them when tightening bolt.
Kudos to you for getting dirty and wheeling.
Kudos for you wheeling it. I don’t understand the people that buy a 4x4 truck and are afraid to touch even a dirt road. I truly have more dents and scratches from shopping carts than I’ve gotten from off-roading.