4.5 inch or 6 inch lift recommendations?

[cannonFodder]

They would have to rub a lot with no lift and at least a little with a 2.5”.

no rub and full lock/lock steering on 40s and mopar. Daily driven.

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[kelkolb]

No major rock crawling doesn't require "fully flexed out."

I have 40s on a mopar lift and don't have any rub, and can flex enough to get out of anything I am going to get into in my overloading experiences...

I think many people will disagree with you there. I too have a Mopar lift. I have 34's and my tires are just shy of hitting the fender at full articulation with the sway bar disconnected. If I had 37's I would be doing damage, let alone 40's. There's a reason the Mopar lift is only designed for 35's on a non Rubicon.

 

[LaterGator]

Keep with the 2.5-3.5" lift and if you need additional clearance go to the hi-line fenders option. The lower lift will also ride better than the bigger lifts which is a big plus for overlanding and makes getting in/out of the bed easier.

 

[CMac]

You don't even need 4.5" to clear 37's. A Clayton 3.5" kit would be enough, especially if you're just overlanding.

I think STOCK is sufficient if you're just overlanding....

 

[Silvertruck]

OP,

To answer your question there are several manufacturers repping a 4 inch lift but relatively few repping a six inch lift. BDS and Evo manufacturing are two of the more complete kits i have seen at 6 inches. Rough Country also makes one, though quality may be debatable depending on who you talk to. CJ Offroad did the RC lift on their gladiator if you want to look it up on you tube.

if you go higher than 4 inch you may be disappointed at the fender gap presented by 37 inch tires. I have 37’s and have been considering a move to 38’s. To go to a larger tire than that with a lot of confidence it becomes a significant investment in driveline stuff to support turning that beef.

For what its worth, here are a few measurements taken off my rig with the 3.5 inch overland kit from clayton. I realized over 4 inches with it and the kit is very complete, at least for my needs. I say go as big as you want, every mod has its compromises though. Super tall lifts may give you a very high roll center which may not be awesome for crawling. However, if you do lowland offroading where clearance is a premium in swampy conditions, getting up in the air makes a lot of sense. Also be mindful that big lifts, done comprehensively addressing all systems, is probably 3x to 4x the cost of the lift all in. At least thats been my experience including tires, gears, labor and other stuff.

 

[kgc]

I have 37s with 3" bump stops spacers in the front and no bump stop spacers in the rear. I get very minimal rub front and rear at full bump - not enough to bend the fenders. I am running 0 offset wheels AND 1.75" inch wheel spacers; the tires don't 'tuck' inside the fenders. Lift height doesn't matter in determining up travel, but, I have 3" front and 1" rear rock jock springs (which give 4"/2" lift on my sport S).

 

[StingyJT]

I think many people will disagree with you there. I too have a Mopar lift. I have 34's and my tires are just shy of hitting the fender at full articulation with the sway bar disconnected. If I had 37's I would be doing damage, let alone 40's. There's a reason the Mopar lift is only designed for 35's on a non Rubicon.

If and when he hits the trails, he’ll lose a fender.
37s fully stuffed on Rubicon with Mopar lift plus 3/4” spacer. Subtract 2” in fender height and add 1.5” in tire diameter. Bye fender.

 

[PDiddy]

no rub and full lock/lock steering on 40s and mopar. Daily driven.

That may be true but you have no room to flex. You will rip your fender off.

 

[PDiddy]

You never know when your overlanding or off roading if you are going to need to flex the suspension. Even daily driving, you can hit a dip or something and bottom out your suspension. If you do that with tires that don’t fit you can rip up the inside of your fenders.

I would highly recommend designing your setup so it doesn’t bind at full flex and Lock.

 

[bastage]

Hello all. I purchased a 2020 gladiator sport s and started my adventure of customization. Starting with tires which I have already purchased 37s and 17 inch rims. I am looking at a 4.5 inch or 6 inch lift, the main purpose of my jeep will be overlanding no major rock crawling. My questions are which lift would be best? What other parts should I get to achieve a decent ride quality? Or any other helpful information I appreciate it.

That's too much lift for 37's without looking funny.. I have 37's on my max tow & 2.5" Clayton lift. With the aftermarket Bushwacker fenders I could go up a couple more inch's in tire size & still be fine at full flex (with the sway bars disconnected even).

Also keep in mind that the lift measurement is not apples to apples between brands. Clayton & Evo for example give you a lot more lift for 2.5" then some other brands would at 3 or even 4". This is because most all lifts try to get the rig mostly leveled vs the factory rake so measuring 3.5" from the front & then leveling the rear, the rear would only be up 1.5ish inch's, vs measuring 3.5" at the rear & then leveling the front the front would go up 5.5ish inch's. To further complicate the subject since they are measuring vs factory height & different models have different factory height due to parts replaced Brand X could say that you get 3" & base this from measuring the front of a factory sport a Rubicon would with the same parts net less. Inverse is also true.

There are pictures I posted a while back with my JT & 2.5" clayton lift on 35's & another member here's JT with 3" metal cloak lift on 37's backed up to each other & my rear with the smaller tires & lesser spec'd lift being noticeably taller then the other (when it should of been about 2" shorter if the lift's were measured the same).

Also consider that the limiting factor on tire size is how close the fenders are to the center of the axles. Aftermarket fenders will net you several inch's worth of clearance vs the stock fenders so you can get away with less lift and still get the same tire size. For overlanding the lower center of gravity & road manners as a result would be beneficial. Most aftermarket fenders provide much more clearance then even Rubicon High Line fenders. You may still need additional width, but that doesn't really change with a lift if you are on uneven terrain.

This picture is my Sport S Max Tow on the 2.5" lift with 37's & +25mm offset wheels (as in the tires are tucked much closer to the frame then most as most off-road styled wheels are 0 or negative offset). The picture doesn't do the tire clearance justice, I could go 39's or 40's & still be fine on that 2.5" (though under rated) lift.

 

[cannonFodder]

"That may be true but you have no room to flex. You will rip your fender off."

Please continue to armchair quarterback.

 

[StingyJT]

"That may be true but you have no room to flex. You will rip your fender off."

Please continue to armchair quarterback.

You said before that you don’t take it off-road. In that case, you’re probably fine on streets. Not much wheeling in FL.

 

[PDiddy]

"That may be true but you have no room to flex. You will rip your fender off."

Please continue to armchair quarterback.

so you won’t hit your fenders at full flex?

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