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I am adding this as a part of doing the work in general. Also, my worry is or fear is scraping that cover on a rock, my typically four wheeling is in Moab or dry, rocky stuff, not necessarily destroying the cover, but damaging enough so it leaks. So that’s my fear even if all I do is add a cool...

Found one! https://www.etsy.com/listing/1122458394/compatible-with-jeep-jl?click_key=f1d56f43af862f2913410ab743880bdeda8d0843%3A1122458394&click_sum=c5d042d7&ref=shop_home_active_1

Looking for a flat panel to replace the non-Rubicon cubby, any one have a lead? Want to use it to mount switches on, and not interested in the $300+ Lazfit set ups.

OP you're 100% right the 4.10's are fine crowd are full of it :LOL: 35's need 4.56 or 4.88's if you ever think you may go 37's. I'm re-gearing because 4.10's don't cut it.

Daym those are tanks!

Appreciate the feed back! Sounds like AEV covers a skid plate for the rear and call it good is the best course.

I’m at 23k supercharged running 34” on a freedom max tow like yours. No issues but I’m re-gearing for 35” next tire replacement. 4.1’s and 37”?! Oh god no. 4.88’s at min. My neck of the woods towing in the mountains I might go 5.13 w 37”.

Doing gears some time in the next few weeks, soon as the parts show up. So lets talk Diff covers! Basically since I'm (or the shop) will be there want to do everything related to the work at the same time. Re-gearing, and going to add an E-Locker up front. I do tow a bit and run a lot of...

Free to a good home, you pay shipping; 1) Terra Fex 1.5” spacer kit w 3/4” day star rear. 2) procal snap never used came in the lift kit. Taken! 3) max tow springs out of a freedom edition (steel bumpers) 22k miles on them. I’ll ship via UPS from the local store.

Rear MOLLE panel:

Molle panel installed from American Adventure Lab. Wanted it for the power tank to mount on. I’ll add fuel can/water mount of some sort in the future. Not decided on rotopax or a traditional metal fuel can yet. For any one whose not added molle before they are kind of a pita. You have to built...

Maybe do the fronts? Rears I would want the max tow.

I use the adapters and extended JL mirrors they work great. I have a "back up" camera wired to running lights if I need a back up to see behind me.

Looks abought right. Good for you getting it scaled.

Paul, I would email Dave and get a tune direct from him, he is charging for them now.

Maggi is my vote but I’m biased. just understand you are not in the world of perfect factory stuff. what can probably will go wrong. that said there are a lot of us w 20k+ miles and no issues at all. There are also some blown motor, every one I know of is vale train or tune relate.

11+ is fantastic towing. You’re not going to get better than that. For me, max 65, will jump to 70 to pass, but I’m normally at 63 in the slow lane. Im out west at 3500-7500 ft, towing 5k. My mileage is 8, 5 if I’m fighting a head wind…. Which seems like EVERY time I hook up the trailer...

there is now way the 4e will be paired with the max tow. With the battery pack and electric motor you’re adding weight already. It will be lucky to have a 5k tow rating.

Good advice from Wing. I would add, go get your truck scaled, full of fuel. Google cat scale a bunch should pop up. That will give you the real weight of your rig. then deduct stuff and people that leaves you with what’s left for your trailer.

What did you end up doing OP? I originally did spacers, 1.5 front and 3/4 rear, and recently ripped it all out and did a 2.5” AEV kit, really like it.