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Well, that is interesting. The WB shows up on the Mopar eStore, but no application info: Discussion on the JL forum indicates it is the same filter: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/6819-1349-wb-vs-6819-1349-ac.136655/

On my JK, I needed to space the winch up a little. I used a single piece of 6061-T6 aluminum. Just make sure to adjust the length of the winch mounting hardware to get the required thread engagement. Also, if using spacers with a 'textured' finish, I would sand them smooth. Textured finishes...

For punctures, I've used DynaPlug plugs on many different tires with great success. I like them because you don't have to ream out the puncture to make the hole bigger to install the plug. You just pull out the nail/screw/whatever and install the plug. I had an older kit with a plastic...

I never do either, but ... ... go on youtube and search for re-gearing or pinion seal replacement videos. I have yet to watch a video where they DON'T use an impact on the pinion nut. Same thing for axle nuts on jeeps and other vehicles. Just did front wheel bearings on our older CX-5...

Did you use an impact on the pinion nut? If so, it may be possible that the teeth were damaged during disassembly, especially if there was excessive play in the outer pinion bearing.

Here is the Star Case for wire chafing on 2020s leading to Serv 4WD light coming on: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10177485-9999.pdf

Oh, I thought you were asking if I had wired relays into the circuits.

Nope, not relay triggered. No incandescent trailer lights either. I am using euro factory LED rear fog lights as supplemental brake/turn lights. Part numbers are 68338390AA & 68338391AA.

Yes that is the cleanest & easiest way to do it. It is fine if you are only using them as marker lights. Just as a FYI, the brake light & turn signal light circuits in the trailer harness have a very slight delay versus the actual rear lights on the truck. So, if you ever decide to use them...

I washed my factory filter instead of throwing it out. I'll put it in at the next filter change and wash the one that is in there.

Nope. Not the battery.

You obviously aren't too familiar with real strenuous physical activity in the cold. There is no way my key fob brick is going to be flopping around in a pocket - jacket or whatever - during a 2+ hour aggressive mountain bike ride. Plus, it needs to be in a place that will keep it safe in the...

Hahaha, some of us lead a more active lifestyle I guess. It goes in my backpack while mountain biking, and we ride no matter what the temperature or conditions are.

I never found a fix. I have just learned to work around the issue. When I finish a cold ride, I take the fob out of my pack and try it. If it doesn't work, I shove that little ice cube into the waistband of my shorts, curse a few times, talk with my buddies about how awesome the ride was, and...

I don't dislike the design of the fob, but I can't stand that it quits working when it gets too cold.

UPDATE: another 2+ months have passed and my door treated with Boeshield is still silent. I'm declaring this creaking door issue fixed.

It is 1/8" thick, just a little over 3mm. The Armaflex stuff has reinforcing threads on the back (see the pic on the HD site) to keep it from being stretched, but it conforms well. If you need something without the reinforcement, the other stuff at Lowes may not have it. There is also this...

... and you can even get to the Owner's Manual just sitting at your computer. For the OP's 2023 JT: https://www.mopar.com/jeep/en-us/my-vehicle/owners-manual.html

Check out foam pipe insulation tape available at HD and Lowes. I have used the Armacell insulation tape for isulating an air intake on a past project and it holds up very well to high underhood temperatures...

^^ My 1963 Land Rover came from the factory with those exact mirrors, but I swapped them out for something a bit bigger during the restoration: