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If you think you have a bad aux battery causing other problems, you can just unplug it's ground cable from the main battery negative terminal. The next attempt to start will fail and the ESS error light will turn on, but after that you'll be running on the main battery only.

I don't have the Alpine system, but have also read to not use the capacitors with the Alpine system. The Metra Speaker adapters unmodified reverse the wires/polarity and have to be modified to correct the polarity. Here's my latest speaker upgrade...

It looks to me like the cable was intended to be looped over the window crank.

How are you checking the polarity and do you have a base system or Alpine?

This appears to be normal operation. The point of the smart alternator is to reduce engine load and increase mpg when higher alternator output is not needed. When you are decelerating, they can increase the alternator output without increasing mpg, it's free voltage whether you need it or not.

The body ground cable runs from the main battery to the fender. Disconnecting this cable from the fender disconnects both batteries.

The small battery ground cable can be disconnected, which disconnects the small battery.

The Genesis system converts the 2 battery ESS system to a single battery ESS system with an extra battery by moving the aux battery cables to the main battery. The second battery in the Genesis does not perform the function of the aux battery in the ESS system.

Check out the newer Turtle Wax with graphene. Easy to apply and very durable.

It doesn't seem logical that it's shutting off with a larger hose, how does it run with no hose at all? It's possible the new hose fittings are more restrictive. Are you sure it's not over heating? Check your local Napa for the 300 lpm Maxi Trac compressor, over 10 cfm and frequently...

You probably had a bad cable connection on one of the batteries. With the batteries in parallel, the other battery covered for the bad connection. When ESS activates and the batteries separate, the bad connection could have sparked or gotten hot enough from the additional resistance to start a...

The inner metal frame is probably bent. Best option is to live with it until a take off is conveniently available.

It's a match.

Just remembered mines for a sport, are they the same?

I've got an extra you can have if you need it.

20A is not enough current capacity for an N1 - N2 jumper, experience shows it should be at least 40A. It should also be fused as there is the possibility of it getting shorted out, and once it's fused the switch is redundant. That's how the fused bypass jumper came into existence...

This video shows that the JL can cold start from just the aux battery I've found that there is a brief (instantaneous) separation of the batteries that tests the aux battery prior to both batteries participating in a cold start. I'll vouch for this diagram, it's mine and is based on the...

What is described in the video does not work in a regular JL/JT. If it worked for them, then they have a modified battery system. It's not a big deal to run with the aux battery as a disconnected spare, that's what the fused bypass jumper facilitates. Here's the thread on the Wrangler forum...

Granger is a sponsor on the Wrangler forum and is claiming below MSRP.

DIY remote starters for RFID chipped keys use a security module that holds the chipped key in a loop antenna that connects to another loop antenna that's placed around the ignition cylinder. When power is applied to the module, the RFID signal is replicated at the ignition cylinder making it...