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Both, they are connected in parallel for a cold start.

While the starter requires more power than the electronics, it doesn't seem to be as picky about voltage as the electronics. If the electronics don't get high enough voltage they don't boot up. From what I see, starting failures are typically (always?) due to the electronics not powering up...

The only time it would be 12 volts along the entire chain of wires and cables is when there is no current flowing through the wire. As soon as the current flows through the wire there is a voltage drop of amps x resistance (v=ar). As current flows into the batteries there is also a voltage...

Here's my explanation of why jump starting from that N1 terminal works when jumpstarting from the battery doesn't. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ess-jumpstarting-main-battery-vs-n1-terminal.87726/#post-1865810

Both going down together usually means they are still connected in parallel and the ESS fuse is good.

Exactly. There's usually enough of a charge in the new battery to last a few days and then it dies again. The symptoms described here are a good match for a blown ESS fuse, I think it's worth checking.

This system is not new to the JL/JT, it's been in use since MY 2016. Here's a partial list that show's when it started being used on various models and I think it's still in use in these models. FCA must be satisfied that it functions as expected.

Usually when the aux battery runs down it takes the main battery with it, unless the ESS (N3) fuse is blown. It might be worth checking that fuse, if it is blown the aux battery will go dead again. Here's some information about it...

From your experience, who makes the best batteries?

You might get a couple tenths of voltage back if you disconnect the battery. The voltage goes down a little when it's under load. I've never had a vehicle that sparked as much as the JL/JT when the battery gets connected. Have you considered what impact adding proximity door handles added to...

If you charged the batteries with the IBS removed, the reinstalled IBS has to relearn the main battery and you'll probably get max voltage output until that process is complete.

Pin 3 goes to the PCR, not the PCM. The PCR is what connects the batteries in parallel and separates them during an ESS stop and the brief cold start aux battery test.

The 14.5-14.7v gets applied directly to the batteries, I wonder what would prevent the batteries from charging?

Mine is definitely smoother after the camshaft replacement and the followup repair. Silky smooth idle now, barely hear or feel it.

That aux battery voltage is low, are you sure the blown fuse was repaired so the aux battery can get charged from the alternator?

Thanks for the link, but it's seems like just people speculating and no one actually getting a combination of Max Tow with LED. What would those fenders look like, wouldn't you have the Max Tow plastic with the LED lights?

Due to it's wide axles, the Max Tow requires wider fenders than the LED package fenders, so maybe that's why Max Tow isn't available if the LED package is available.

JT Sport parked for 2.5 hrs - 12.45v JL Sport parked for 24 hrs - 12.42v

I saw this was mentioned but not answered, the 5" radio only has the am/fm antenna attached plus an XM antenna if equipped.

No port/tube came with mine, just the hood cut out. The port/tube might be a snorkle thing.