Weight and corrosion. I use/abuse the heck out of my stuff, and I like being able to nick things and sand them off in 6 months after a little oxidation, instead of being paranoid about rust :/
There are three options now that I’m aware of.
JRC - Available now I think. .120 steel, looks like most of the JRC stuff.
813 - Doing their first run right now. Aluminum, really smart locking mechanism.
? - I can’t quickly find the other brand (will update if I see them again). Looked steel...
Another thing to think about is how dedicated of an overlanding rig you are building. When I was starting my build I was constantly at war with myself between how to make it the perfect weekend, hunting, Home Depot, lake, off-road, overland, and bike hauling truck. Unfortunately, all of those...
I have it, and haven’t blown it yet. *knock on wood*
As with all things mechanical. Estimate twice the time the first time you are doing it or if you don’t have a full tool chest. But if you are comfortably burning a weekend morning and you aren’t afraid, it should be pretty easy.
The RK lift handles the extra weight like a champ when I load up the truck. I don’t run that much constant weight though after the aluminum and weight reduction. By constant weight, I mean pieces bolted to the truck that don’t come off or out.
The “saga” started for me when I found myself close...
I haven’t removed mine yet, but having dismantled everything around it, it looks pretty quick. You have to pull the belt, take some brackets off, and remove the battery connectors. I’d estimate 2-3 hours depending on how fast you are.
I guess that depends on how crazy you want to go :) Sounds like I need to add a disclaimer here....
My advise is my opinion only. You have to make your own decisions about what makes you feel comfortable about your car and your investment. If anything I say makes you feel uncomfortable, then...
In theory, everything you are describing can be tacked up to sloppy assembly. Things not tightened down ( center console and ground), FAD not aligned/installed correctly (guess based in what you said), overspray or something from delivery for the black spots.
Lemon Law is definitely an option...
This is A Gas JTR with Steel Bumpers, Winch, Steel Sliders, an aluminum bed rack (front runner), onboard air, dual battery, camping gear for 1 night, typical recovery gear, and 1 passenger, 5 120lb wheel/tires.
After that weighing experience I made a spreadsheet and swapped to all aluminum...
I appreciate the purpose-driven build. It’s a very nice rolling stereo system. Exactly what is needed for driving 20’ onto the beach to play loud music.
If it was dirty, than shooting some water in might not be the worst idea. Since it’s clean, probably won’t help. It is an electrical device and heated water isn’t a favorite for copper.
I’d start by testing it before you try cleaning with steam.
Also check fuses and the wires. Make sure all...
You want to see if it’s noticeably dirty first. If so, clean it before running the truck too much do you don’t grind more dirt into it.
Then test to see if it’s generating a charge when you run the vehicle. I think you mentioned you bought a multimeter. There are a bunch of guides online for...
What everyone else said. Normal road, normal speeds. And check the alternator.
The mud killing alternators scenario isn’t unique to Jeeps. The two just don’t play well together. In theory you can clean the alternator out and more watery mud is less risky that heavy mud. I’m sure that’s why the...
https://hotheadheadliners.com/collections/sound-assassin/products/sound-assassin-sound-deadening-insulation-jeep-gladiator-packages?variant=32414432395330
The full floor package is what I used.
Took me an afternoon, but I ran soundproofing and insulation over the entire floor of the Jeep. Huge improvement in terms of quietness and temperature control. Cost about $200 in material and 4-5 hours of time.