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Hey, jeepcares, every Gladiator should drive at least as well as mine. What does it take to get this resolved? My commute to work yesterday.

Straight up correct! I’m currently rebuilding my 1964 Corvette coupe race car. 427 small block, TKO600 5spd, 9” Ford rear with 3.70 lsd and Wilwood disc brakes all around. What makes this a Jeep topic is that I replaced the questionable oem steering with a Borgeson power steering box that is...

Yes sir, you are correct! 37s on Mopar lift.

Comfortably cruises at 85-90 at 2000 rpm with no steering issues.

Shot this video this morning on my morning commute.

Frankly, the bottom line is if you want the winch for anything other than looks, you need a real bumper. Flame on friends!

Go with 35s when you are on the fence about 37s and 99% of the time you will regret it. Someone in the classifieds then gets a deal on 35s when you upgrade. I cruise at 85-90 and have to be careful as I think I’m doing 60-65, but it creeps up quickly. Like others, I love my JTR. Driving it...

New engine, new tranny, new bigger radiator, new stronger radiator fan, and separate tranny cooler. Temp gauge stays right where it always stayed, however we will see how it does once “Hotlanta” reaches its full hot potential this summer and I have the a/c cranked, so more to come.

The Rubicon is the only model you can put 37” tires on without a lift and still have an appropriate range of performance. The Max tow has the 4.10 gears like the JTR, but lacks clearance. Other models have 3.73 gears stock which are far from ideal when you move to 37” tires. Even the 4.10 gears...

I’m a whiner and at 63 require, shit have earned, instant gratification. I agree with all that the 3.6 coupled with the 8sp auto is pretty damn good and can do most anything. I put about 200 miles on mine and then replaced the 3.6 and tranny with a 6.4 hemi and stronger 8sp. The difference is...

Rim protector molded into the tire.

You are correct, sir!

Yeah, the relays are configured and controlled by the computer, not the switches. Without the flash, the computer will not link the switches to the relays. No relay, no light, no control.

Exactly! Once I replaced and adjusted the track bar, my steering wheel was off by 10-15 degrees. I was very please to find the exact same adjuster on the drag link and was able to center the steering wheel perfectly with a few adjust/drive cycles.

Ah, another reader of the classics! Rock on, brother!

I had the same issue with my Mopar lift. I went with the Synergy track bar installed at the same time I installed the Synergy brace. One of the many things I like about the Synergy bar is the adjuster. It is configured so the axle mount holds the bar at exactly the correct angle so the bend...

Perhaps more eminent than you think. Along with that comes the inability to wrap your hands around a steering wheel or a go pedal to stomp. I blame gen Z, who’s with me?!

I posted in the other thread, but I’ll add here that in addition to new tech, packaging adds significant time to replacing some parts. It’s the old rear main seal issue where the seal is cheap and it takes a few minutes to remove and replace, but it can take hours to pull things apart and then...

It will be different, that’s for sure. However, the benefits of working on older vehicles shines when the scanner fails due to a wiring issue. Prior to ecus and scan tools with obd ports, we knew all about wiring issues, bad connectors, corroded/broken pins, and rodent issues. Today’s tech...

“An” idiot. But, best of luck in finding one. We need all kinds in the club.