Any concerns about the ball joints when you get to the Cs? I'm pretty good at turning a bolt, but I'm not much of a welder. The shop that I'd farm that task out to was concerned with heating the BJs and ruining them.
I did, it sold within a day of posting. I do have a couple of other items I can't use that are brand new in box if you're interested. Metalcloak rear diff skid, MC sector shaft brace, and datin shock skids. PM if you're interested and I can send some pics/details.
I do have a set of the mopar...
This is one spot of my build I kind of screwed myself. I did the axles shafts, ball joints, and apex steering boost kit at the same time in a buddy's garage. I was not anticipating to regear from the AEV installed 4.56s so I had no plans to gut the differential to weld on trusses. I did end up...
LOL Extensive oil change indeed!
I spent months looking at different long arms and comparing to my now "old" set up. Ultimately, the geo brackets were becoming a hang up point. I couldn't find a downside to going this route other than 1. its permanent and 2. its expensive. Now that I'm locked...
I just installed my second lift on the JT and went all out with the Rock Krawler Silverback kit with adventure series joints. It's a 3" lift with a long arm 4 link front and mid arm triangulated 4 link rear. I went with Bilstein 5100 shocks. The RK joints are maintenance free and articulate very...
Stock rear brakes (rotors/pads replaced after an axle seal leak @25k miles 50k now)
Stock calipers up front w/ PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit
I'm happy with the combo. We'll see how Moab goes this years since I regeared so steeply (5.38s)
Now I've really gotten in deep...Tore out the old suspension and went a totally different direction with a @Rock Krawler Suspension 3" Silverback. The Silverback kit is a 4 link long arm up front and a mid arm triangulated 4 link rear.
First impressions: Holy shit this rides smooth! I was...
Are you DD it? I went with RCVs w/ FAD. They still warranty the shafts to a 43" tire. Everything behaves like a stock vehicle on the road and I still get the strength and turning benefits of a RCV on the trail. Running 38s on a DD and hit some pretty tough trails all over the country.
Edit: My...
I'll say the winter performance is good enough, but it is not as good as the KO2. The offraod capability is significantly improved compared to the KO2. For me, the trade off is worth while, it's competent enough in snow and DD but more capable off road and the extra bit of height really pays off...
I don't regret moving up to the 38x13.5 one bit. I am however making some changes to the JT. I have regeared to 5.38s and am swapping the suspension over to a rock krawler 3" silverback kit (parallel long arms in front, triangulated 4 link rear). The suspension swap is based on use case. I've...
The control arm brand (bend), wheel offset, backspace, width of wheel, and width of tire will all factor into whether the tire will rub. My combo 38x13.5 tire, 17x8.5 wheel (+25mm offset, 5.7" backspace) and MC control arms just touch the control arm at full lock/stuff while aired down to ~...
A ton of threads on tracing shimmys and shakes. Ultimately things to look at include torque specing all steering/suspension bolts, tire pressure, tire/wheel balance, worn components like BJs and tie rod ends...etc.
More stabilizer is not the answer to correcting steering wobble
So my answer depends of what you want to use the truck for. I am using the Borahs as a true beadlock wheel with 38s now. I do a fair bit of technical offroading and being able to air down to 8-11 PSI without thinking about the bead is great. I love the look of both of them. If you're not worried...