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14-BS Motorcycle Battery Experiment

freebird_78

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BACKGROUND:

'21 JTRD. Been having intermittent AUX battery issues from day one. Nothing major, never failed to start or anything like that. Since I have Tazer, I disable start/stop, so really, had I not been monitoring the charging patterns, I probably wouldn't even know there was a "problem". However, start/stop would almost never be available as it sits, if I did care to use it. I'm VERY impatient, so the only way I would bother with going to the dealer and dealing with the inevitable BS about this would be if it left me stranded, or if I did want to use start/stop.

I have a battery tester and have measured (and reported on this forum) what I've been seeing. Bottom line, the main battery has and still is testing "good" and has around 8mOhms of internal resistance and about 750 CCA capacity (despite the 700 CCA rating). Similarly, I've been testing the AUX battery. Despite testing "good", the internal resistance always tests in the 13-16mOhm range, which is high for AGM. Capacity is testing to be 185 CCA, despite the 200 CCA rating. I've done the IBS reset, and that seems to work past the 5 drive cycle re-learn, but not too much beyond it, before reverting to a constant 14.0V charging voltage (rather than the variable 12.7 - 14.7, load dependent charge voltage), and showing auto start/stop "charging". The weather is warming up, so things like heater grid, DEF heaters, etc are no longer a factor. My normal commute is about 40 minutes, so short cycling isn't really in play. A recent 6 hour road trip still resulted in the same behavior.


EXPIRIMENT:

After lots of research, it appears that the stock AUX battery is a slightly modified 14-BS motorcycle battery. Physically the same size (more on that later), same capacity (again, more on that later), same terminal orientation, and similar terminal posts.

As it turns out, my quad uses a 14-BS, and I recently replaced it with a new AGM.

After my road trip (referenced above), I decided to go ahead and run the 14-BS AGM experiment. The new 14-BS tested at 285 CCA (with a 220 CCA rating) and about 6mOhm internal resistance. Both a good bit better than the OEM AUX battery. Two very slight modifications were needed to swap the 14-BS in. First, the AUX batter compartment lid has a protrusion to hold the battery down, at least on the diesel. This protrusion sits roughly in between the two terminals. While the overal dimensions of the 14-BS are identical to the OEM AUX, this particular area on the 14-BS is about 1/4" taller than OEM. Simply grinding down the hold down protrusion by that 1/4" solved that. If I have to revert back, I'll simply add a small piece of foam to the OEM AUX to maintain a tight fit. The second very minor (and reversable) mod is to the terminals on the Jeep. The terminals are designed to engage the terminals on 3 sides, but the 14-BS terminal is about 1/4" wider, allowing only 2 of the three sides to engage. Simply bending one of the three tabs up flat allows it to engage properly. If needed to revert, simply bend the tab back.


RESULTS:

It's been a couple of weeks now, and I'm still getting "normal" charging/voltage, rather that sitting at a static 14.0V all the time. Enabling auto start/stop is showing it available every time I check. I've made it further than the IBS reset, to date.

It appears that an off the shelf 14-BS AGM motorcycle battery works just fine (actually better) than the OEM AUX battery. I'm gonna run it another month, just to make sure, then just buy a new one and return the one in the Jeep back to my quad. They're only about $60, so it's not a major investment.
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XJFanatic

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Good to know. Keep us posted on how it goes. I noticed today at a stop my voltage dropped all the way down to 11.8 before I let off the brake. Actually surprised me that it didn’t kick an ESS light as it did right before my JLU’s batteries gave up ghost at 32k.
 

kgc

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I am also running a motorcycle battery - Duralast Group 14 AGM - I replaced the dead OEM battery with it about 3 months ago and it's been going strong. I don't recall having the clearance or the terminal issues you mentioned. I have the 3.6L engine.
 
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freebird_78

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A month in and still working out well. Start/Stop working every time I've bothered to look. Charging system fluctuating like it's supposed to.

Case closed, as far as I'm concerned.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Good to know. Keep us posted on how it goes. I noticed today at a stop my voltage dropped all the way down to 11.8 before I let off the brake. Actually surprised me that it didn’t kick an ESS light as it did right before my JLU’s batteries gave up ghost at 32k.
The IBS monitors actual SoC of the crank battery, not just voltage. It knows (or is supposed to) when there's not enough to start the engine again based on tracking what comes out and what goes into the main battery.
When ESS sends a restart signal, the two batteries are connected in parallel again, giving the starter the combined current from both AUX and CRANK batteries. They are only ever apart during an ESS stop.
 

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obrianmcc

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I was static at 14.0v ... chucked the AUX and all works fine now with voltage now hovering in the 14.3-14.4 range. (Note: my Odyssey is labeled to charge between 14.3-14.8v)
 

WetWilly

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I am also running a motorcycle battery - Duralast Group 14 AGM - I replaced the dead OEM battery with it about 3 months ago and it's been going strong. I don't recall having the clearance or the terminal issues you mentioned. I have the 3.6L engine.
What is a GOOD motorcycle battery these days , Years ago I was in motorcycle sales and repair, and when someone asked what is the best motorcycle battery, I could not give an honest answer.. Because they all seemed to have short life spans. I am sure maybe better ones are on the market in todays time... Any suggestions anyone ? At the time I stocked and sold Interstate batteries and had good and bad with Interstate, but they always made them good with warranty.
 

azmojave

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Anyone take pics of this? I guess the aux battery is under the main battery?
 

kgc

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What is a GOOD motorcycle battery these days , Years ago I was in motorcycle sales and repair, and when someone asked what is the best motorcycle battery, I could not give an honest answer.. Because they all seemed to have short life spans. I am sure maybe better ones are on the market in todays time... Any suggestions anyone ? At the time I stocked and sold Interstate batteries and had good and bad with Interstate, but they always made them good with warranty.

The Duralast AGM that I'm using is still going strong in the Jeep! I've had zero issues since I replaced the OEM with this. On my motorcycle I run antigravity lithium batteries - they seem to be great. I've had one for 2 years/300+ hours and a ton of starts (I probably restart my bike 50-100 times per ride at most of of the singletrack trails I ride, between stalling on obstacles and the start/stop nature of riding with a group on this type of terrain). I would have used an Antigravity in the Jeep but I read that mixing lithium and AGM batteries could ruin the lithium battery quicker. And full size truck antigravity batteries are $800-900, so no thanks.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Anyone take pics of this? I guess the aux battery is under the main battery?
Under PDC/fuse box. Remove right front fender liner/shield and you can access it via the back of the RF wheel well. If you want, you can also pull the PDC/fuse panel but that can have its own issues with connectivity, etc.

This is "by the book" ->

Jeep Gladiator 14-BS Motorcycle Battery Experiment aux-replace
 

NachoRuby

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Under PDC/fuse box. Remove right front fender liner/shield and you can access it via the back of the RF wheel well. If you want, you can also pull the PDC/fuse panel but that can have its own issues with connectivity, etc.

This is "by the book" ->

Jeep Gladiator 14-BS Motorcycle Battery Experiment aux-replace
Where does one purchase "the book"? I used to buy Haynes and Chiltons manuals for everything.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Where does one purchase "the book"? I used to buy Haynes and Chiltons manuals for everything.
That image is from a google image search I did a while back.
I wanted to know what I was in for "just in case".
I ended up not taking mine apart but splitting cables, disconnecting, up top to charge the batterie independently.
I also read what the tech who checked my batteries wrote on the repair orders to confirm he went in through the wheel opening, removing the shield.
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