2020 Gladiator Mojave Review: For most buyers, the Mojave will make more sense than the Rubicon [Autoblog]

[TheITGuy]

For all those who just "need" to roll on bigger rubber, a good spacer kit should still work with the Mojave suspension. That's what a lot of ZR2 and TRDBro guys are doing.

I've been thinking about that. My only question is if the front bump stop extensions in the current kits (like AEV's) will work with the Mojave's new hydraulic bump stops.

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[MrKnowitall]

I've been thinking about that. My only question is if the front bump stop extensions in the current kits (like AEV's) will work with the Mojave's new hydraulic bump stops.

it should- both the rubber jounce and hydro bump live on the frame side in the top of the coil. AFAIK, most, if not all of the extensions live on the axle.

 

[Kent5]

If you ever drove on the washboard roads in Monument Valley to Hunts Mesa or the washboard roads in Death Valley to the Racetrack, you would know why I say that the Mojave is a superior vehicle than the Overland for overland use. I've used my rear locker plenty of times overlanding the 900 miles of the AZ BDR, the UT BDR etc. Overlanding isn't just the simple forest roads that you see Honda Civics on, some of the trails and routes are complex with even some difficult sections.

The Overland is a trim level and wasn't really designed with true overland travel in mind. It is a package to suck the newbie into buying one just like the Sahara which again doesn't have any special off road traits than the Sport does. Some overlanding will require one locker, most will require aftermarket suspension if for nothing more to handle the weight of a fully equipped Wrangler setting off on a 8 day, 900 mile off road trip. Then again, perhaps you've never really done any serious overlanding ?

(snip)

So you recommend Mojave over the "Overland" model, primarily for the upgraded shocks? (rear trac-lok is available on Sport/Overland trim levels. And yes, I know it's NOT a "true" locker)

And you're right, I haven't done any "serious overlanding", but most of the folks I know that do, they don't go bombing down washboard roads at speed, nor are they tackling what most would consider "difficult" trails with rooftop campers and 1,000+ lbs of gear loading down the suspension. Not saying anyone *shouldn't*, but just saying *I* wasn't aware that those scenarios were part of the typical activities you might expect to prepare for on an overlanding trip.

Before this conversation, I would have thought that the Sport with the MaxTow package would be the "sweet spot" for the start of an overlanding build, for typical "Overlanding" usage. The savings left over from buying a Sport vs. Mohave (roughly about $7,000) would be more than enough for a serious suspension upgrade (if desired) and most of the other most-often used aftermarket overlanding accessories. But perhaps the average O/L is a lot more aggressive than what I would have thought.

Thanks for the insights.

 

[steelponycowboy]

For all those who just "need" to roll on bigger rubber, a good spacer kit should still work with the Mojave suspension. That's what a lot of ZR2 and TRDBro guys are doing.

I think using the Mojave with spacers would make it a dangerous ride. Never cared for spacers, seen too many issues for them. If you need a lift, do it right the 1st time and don't cheap out.. Of the 36 Jeeps I've built, I used spacers on two, one of them a 99 TJ, the other an 07 Sahara. Nothing but problems, will never use spacers again.

Here is another great review of the Mojave. Motor trend says the Mojave will do 90% of what the Rubicon can and so much more that the Rubicon can't. Front HD44 is wider than the Rubicon axle. They make some good points to buy the Mojave over the Rubicon.

The 2020 Jeep Gladiator Mojave Is the Best Gladiator You Can Buy

 

[Kent5]

I think using the Mojave with spacers would make it a dangerous ride. Never cared for spacers, seen too many issues for them. If you need a lift, do it right the 1st time and don't cheap out.. Of the 36 Jeeps I've built, I used spacers on two, one of them a 99 TJ, the other an 07 Sahara. Nothing but problems, will never use spacers again.

Here is another great review of the Mojave. Motor trend says the Mojave will do 90% of what the Rubicon can and so much more that the Rubicon can't. Front HD44 is wider than the Rubicon axle. They make some good points to buy the Mojave over the Rubicon.

The 2020 Jeep Gladiator Mojave Is the Best Gladiator You Can Buy

Really? I thought the Mojave front axle *housing* was just the axle from the Sport MaxTow (wide HD44 type with no locker)?

I know the Mojave wheels have less + offset (+36 vs +44), so the Mojave track measurement is wider, but I thought the actual axle width was the same for Rubicon vs. Mojave.

*Edited for clarity about "housings" vs "axle assemblies"

 

[MrKnowitall]

So you recommend Mojave over the "Overland" model, primarily for the upgraded shocks? (rear trac-lok is available on Sport/Overland trim levels. And yes, I know it's NOT a "true" locker)

And you're right, I haven't done any "serious overlanding", but most of the folks I know that do, they don't go bombing down washboard roads at speed, nor are they tackling what most would consider "difficult" trails with rooftop campers and 1,000+ lbs of gear loading down the suspension. Not saying anyone *shouldn't*, but just saying *I* wasn't aware that those scenarios were part of the typical activities you might expect to prepare for on an overlanding trip.

Before this conversation, I would have thought that the Sport with the MaxTow package would be the "sweet spot" for the start of an overlanding build, for typical "Overlanding" usage. The savings left over from buying a Sport vs. Mohave (roughly about $7,000) would be more than enough for a serious suspension upgrade (if desired) and most of the other most-often used aftermarket overlanding accessories. But perhaps the average O/L is a lot more aggressive than what I would have thought.

Thanks for the insights.

Remember that not all difficult trails are that way on purpose. You could be rolling along a perfectly nice road, only to find a culvert washed out or obstacle placed by someone (loggers like to do that).
Side note- the Rubicon and Mojave front axles use the same housing.

 

[Kent5]

Remember that not all difficult trails are that way on purpose. You could be rolling along a perfectly nice road, only to find a culvert washed out or obstacle placed by someone (loggers like to do that).
Side note- the Rubicon and Mojave front axles use the same housing.

So true. Guess it is best to be 'over-prepared'!

I also thought the Sport MaxTow and Mohave front axle *housings* were exactly the same (wide HD44 with no locker)? Does anyone know if the MaxTow and Mohave front axles also have the bosses for the e-locker wiring? I wouldn't think it would be cost-effective to have TWO such similar housings (one for the elocker and one without), and just use the exact same housing on all three (MaxTow, Rubi and Mojave) but you never know.

*Edited for clarity about "housings" vs "axle assemblies"

 

[MrKnowitall]

Really? I thought the Mojave front axle was just the axle from the Sport MaxTow (wide HD44 type with no locker)?

I know the Mojave wheels have less + offset (+36 vs +44), so the Mojave track measurement is wider, but I thought the actual axle width was the same for Rubicon vs. Mojave.

So the Mojave axle IS unique to the model. The housing is the same as the Rubicon (and presumably MaxTow) with Iron knuckles. Because of the development testing done on the Mojave, the Rubicon (and presumably MT) has thicker wall tubes than would have been specified based on only Rubicon durability cycles.

 

[Kent5]

So the Mojave axle IS unique to the model. The housing is the same as the Rubicon (and presumably MaxTow) with Iron knuckles. Because of the development testing done on the Mojave, the Rubicon (and presumably MT) has thicker wall tubes than would have been specified based on only Rubicon durability cycles.

Indeed, I meant the housing itself was the same, not necessarily all of the bolt-on parts. I went back and clarified my posts.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Indeed, I meant the housing itself was the same, not necessarily all of the bolt-on parts. I went back and clarified my posts.

Could you clarify the difference between the housing and non-housing parts and what makes the Mojave special with regards to its axles?

 

[Darylrey]

I wouldn't be surprised if ALL JT's got the "Mojave frame reinforcements" at some point. They're small, there's just a couple, and the cost savings of just producing ONE frame instead of two would likely save more than the cost of the few little gussets.

The Mojave tow rating (especially with manual) drops to something closer to 4250 lbs. There are a few decent youtube videos about it. I just ordered one but only because I don’t have plans to tow much of anything.

 

[Kent5]

Could you clarify the difference between the housing and non-housing parts and what makes the Mojave special with regards to its axles?

I mean "axle housing" as in the empty welded-up assembly itself. This would exclude all bolt-on components, -- the ring/pinion gears, the axle shafts, bearings, the EAD internals (electric axle disconnect), etc. Basically the entire welded-up section between the knuckle mount "C"s on either end, minus anything that is bolted in or on later.

Versus the "front axle assembly", which includes the above "housing", PLUS the knuckles/uprights, R&P, elocker, axles, brakes. Basically a complete front axle that is operational and ready to be bolted into the Jeep chassis.

My theory: the front axle HOUSINGS are the same between MaxTow, Rubicon and Mojave -- width, strength, and all dimensions.

The differences between those 3 model's front axle assemblies are the parts that are bolted in/on, namely:
1) the Rubicon has the bolt-in E-locker, which is NOT found in the MaxTow nor the Mojave;
2) the Mojave has the bolt-on cast iron knuckles, which are NOT found on the MaxTow and Rubicon (they have the aluminum knuckles instead);
3) The MaxTow, while it has the same housing as the Rubicon and the Mojave, has neither the e-locker of the Rubicon, nor the cast iron knuckles of the Mojave.

I'm emphasizing the difference between "welded up" and "bolted on", because *IF* all 3 model's axle housings (the welded up part) are indeed identical, that means that it would be possible to "bolt-on" swap/upgrade/mix-n-match parts from one model's axle assembly to the others to fit your particular desires, and end up having a front axle identical to specifications and strength to the one used in production for the given model's axle you are emulating.

Of course, whether it would be cost-effective to do so is a whole different discussion!

 

[PyrPatriot]

I mean "axle housing" as in the empty welded-up assembly itself. This would exclude all bolt-on components, -- the ring/pinion gears, the axle shafts, bearings, the EAD internals (electric axle disconnect), etc. Basically the entire welded-up section between the knuckle mount "C"s on either end, minus anything that is bolted in or on later.

Versus the "front axle assembly", which includes the above "housing", PLUS the knuckles/uprights, R&P, elocker, axles, brakes. Basically a complete front axle that is operational and ready to be bolted into the Jeep chassis.

My theory: the front axle HOUSINGS are the same between MaxTow, Rubicon and Mojave -- width, strength, and all dimensions.

The differences between those 3 model's front axle assemblies are the parts that are bolted in/on, namely:
1) the Rubicon has the bolt-in E-locker, which is NOT found in the MaxTow nor the Mojave;
2) the Mojave has the bolt-on cast iron knuckles, which are NOT found on the MaxTow and Rubicon (they have the aluminum knuckles instead);
3) The MaxTow, while it has the same housing as the Rubicon and the Mojave, has neither the e-locker of the Rubicon, nor the cast iron knuckles of the Mojave.

I'm emphasizing the difference between "welded up" and "bolted on", because *IF* all 3 model's axle housings (the welded up part) are indeed identical, that means that it would be possible to "bolt-on" swap/upgrade/mix-n-match parts from one model's axle assembly to the others to fit your particular desires, and end up having a front axle identical to specifications and strength to the one used in production for the given model's axle you are emulating.

Of course, whether it would be cost-effective to do so is a whole different discussion!

Thank you. I just want to know my Max Tow axles are strong enough to not snap

 

[Bobzdar]

I doubt it will ever have the same tow rating. Mojave has a softer rear suspension. If they stiffen the suspension to increase the tow rating it will lose its desert running capability

I don't the difference there is that large and could be, at least somewhat, compensated for with shock damping. Even if it ends up with the Mojave tow rating (so a Mojave with front locker, sway disconnect and some missing skid plates) it'll still be a pretty cool package. I'm surprised they don't make the rubi front locker and sway disco options - just those two would probably make it the hands down Jeep to get, but maybe they like having 2 different high end models that people have to choose from with room for a combo even higher end one later.

Personally after looking at the reviews, living on the east coast the Rubi is much better suited to the stuff I do, the only thing I'd like from the Mojave are the shocks but that's more because the stockers aren't very good. The reinforcements are cool but thinking realistically, completely unnecessary for anything I'm likely to ever do. I usually am not in a hurry off-road and the question is more "can I get through this," not "how quickly can I get through this."

 

[rorgan]

I don't the difference there is that large and could be, at least somewhat, compensated for with shock damping. Even if it ends up with the Mojave tow rating (so a Mojave with front locker, sway disconnect and some missing skid plates) it'll still be a pretty cool package. I'm surprised they don't make the rubi front locker and sway disco options - just those two would probably make it the hands down Jeep to get, but maybe they like having 2 different high end models that people have to choose from with room for a combo even higher end one later.

Personally after looking at the reviews, living on the east coast the Rubi is much better suited to the stuff I do, the only thing I'd like from the Mojave are the shocks but that's more because the stockers aren't very good. The reinforcements are cool but thinking realistically, completely unnecessary for anything I'm likely to ever do. I usually am not in a hurry off-road and the question is more "can I get through this," not "how quickly can I get through this."

Maybe airbags would help the Mojave suspension with Towing?

I'm with you if I had to choose between the Mojave and the Rubicon I would pick the Rubicon.

I don't the difference there is that large and could be, at least somewhat, compensated for with shock damping. Even if it ends up with the Mojave tow rating (so a Mojave with front locker, sway disconnect and some missing skid plates) it'll still be a pretty cool package. I'm surprised they don't make the rubi front locker and sway disco options - just those two would probably make it the hands down Jeep to get, but maybe they like having 2 different high end models that people have to choose from with room for a combo even higher end one later.

Personally after looking at the reviews, living on the east coast the Rubi is much better suited to the stuff I do, the only thing I'd like from the Mojave are the shocks but that's more because the stockers aren't very good. The reinforcements are cool but thinking realistically, completely unnecessary for anything I'm likely to ever do. I usually am not in a hurry off-road and the question is more "can I get through this," not "how quickly can I get through this."

I agree with you. If I had a choice between the Rubicon and the Mojave I'd & the Mojave I'd pick the Rubicon

I don't the difference there is that large and could be, at least somewhat, compensated for with shock damping. Even if it ends up with the Mojave tow rating (so a Mojave with front locker, sway disconnect and some missing skid plates) it'll still be a pretty cool package. I'm surprised they don't make the rubi front locker and sway disco options - just those two would probably make it the hands down Jeep to get, but maybe they like having 2 different high end models that people have to choose from with room for a combo even higher end one later.

Personally after looking at the reviews, living on the east coast the Rubi is much better suited to the stuff I do, the only thing I'd like from the Mojave are the shocks but that's more because the stockers aren't very good. The reinforcements are cool but thinking realistically, completely unnecessary for anything I'm likely to ever do. I usually am not in a hurry off-road and the question is more "can I get through this," not "how quickly can I get through this."

I agree with you if I had a choice between the Mojave and the Rubicon I would take the Rubicon. I won't be losing any sleep at night over that decision because my budget can only afford a sport s. But if you get the max tow you got the Rubicon axles minus the lockers.

I will add lockers down the road. Manual sway bar disconnects are pretty easy to deal with and truthfully I think it's just one less piece of electronics to break.

You can add Mojave shocks to the Rubicon. They aren't cheap . From what I have read the Mojave frame enhancements are not that extensive. So I bet that can be added pretty easy too.


A lot of people on the Forum say the low range on the Rubicon is too low for overlanding / desert running so that's something to think about

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