2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon w/ 6” Rough Country lifts

[GotBail337]

Fox 2.0 shocks
Thanks

Your front caster appears way off. Rock Krawler recommends 5.0-5.5 degrees with a 5" kit. Caster being that far off alone will give you horrible handling. The steering will wander and there will be a lot of bump steer. That could also set you up for death wobble. As others have said you need a full set of upper and lower control arms. Adjustable tracbars would be good as well but with 6" of lift you will need tracbar brackets. That doesn't address the draglink as that may need to be flipped on the knuckle to keep it in phase with the tracbar. It looks like the kit has drop brackets for the front control arms but none for the rear. Not sure what they are using to correct the rear pinion angle and the rear axle will be moved forward in the wheel well also.
Not trying to flame you but it never ceases to amaze me how many people buy an inexpensive kit and expect it to ride and handle as well as stock. Those who know are not spending 2-3x the cost of that kit and more because we want to. We do it because we know what the vehicle will need to function properly lifted and want a complete kit engineered to provided it. Ultimately, if you buy a complete set of adjustable control arms and heavy duty trackbars, you will of spent as much as most of spent for an entire kit....and you will still have Rough Country shocks.

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[REDBEAST]

Fox 2.0 shocks
Thanks

So true. I did front end repair and alignment work for over 20 years and one of the most significant contributors poor handling is running a low or possibly negative caster angle on the front end. The attach points of the upper and lower control arms on a current Jeep suspension are much closer together from top to bottom than standard auto control arm suspension with multi axis ball joints. This means changing the vehicle height without compensating for the caster change is much more critical. The current model Jeep runs a relatively low caster angle from the factory therefor unless adjustable control arms are employed handling will be compromised with almost any change of height. Another point to mention is when the height is changed from factory the track bar will place a preload laterally and contribute to bump steer. An adjustable track bar should be used to relieve this preload. In most cases it is also a good idea to use a drop pitman arm to help prevent bump steer and undo wear on the joint where the drag link attaches.

 

[Harold0819]

Fox 2.0 shocks
Thanks

Sorry, missed the Fox shocks. I have to add that your Gladiator looks good. Has a nice stance. Just needs some 40s to fill those wheel wells.

 

[GotBail337]

Sorry, missed the Fox shocks. I have to add that your Gladiator looks good. Has a nice stance. Just needs some 40s to fill those wheel wells.

thanks for the info, Agreed on the 40’s but with the offset of the wheels, they would rub bad when turning. These 37’s are close when turned at full.

 

[Renegade]

So true. I did front end repair and alignment work for over 20 years and one of the most significant contributors poor handling is running a low or possibly negative caster angle on the front end. The attach points of the upper and lower control arms on a current Jeep suspension are much closer together from top to bottom than standard auto control arm suspension with multi axis ball joints. This means changing the vehicle height without compensating for the caster change is much more critical. The current model Jeep runs a relatively low caster angle from the factory therefor unless adjustable control arms are employed handling will be compromised with almost any change of height. Another point to mention is when the height is changed from factory the track bar will place a preload laterally and contribute to bump steer. An adjustable track bar should be used to relieve this preload. In most cases it is also a good idea to use a drop pitman arm to help prevent bump steer and undo wear on the joint where the drag link attaches.

The RC 6” comes with a track bar bracket and drop pitman arm.

 

[Harold0819]

thanks for the info, Agreed on the 40’s but with the offset of the wheels, they would rub bad when turning. These 37’s are close when turned at full.

Set of wheel spacers will help with that.

 

[Harold0819]

The RC 6” comes with a track bar bracket and drop pitman arm.

True but the main culprit is the wheel caster. Need adjustable arms to correct that.

 

[Renegade]

True but the main culprit is the wheel caster. Need adjustable arms to correct that.

Agreed. I was just clarifying for that particular post/recommendation of installing a drop pitman arm.

 

[Desert Outlaw]

Sorry, but you made a mistake. Based on bad advice, in Jan. 2012, I put a cheap 4" lift from Pro Comp on my JKUR. I had the TC system going off all the time; the installer couldn't align it properly. Drove like hell.

I immediately spent a ton of money replacing all 8 control arms with Synergy adjustable control arms, track bars, tie rod, etc. … And then it drove like a dream.

With the JTR, I went all-in from the start. No cheap crap. My Rock Krawler 3" lift has 8 adjustable control arms; front adjustable trackbar; 4-link system that eliminates the rear trackbar; etc. …

It drives WAY better than stock now. I only went up half as much as you did, but spent three times as much. A 6" lift for $1.3K with no adjustable control arms, trackbars, or tie rod is a terrible idea. I made a similar mistake eight years ago.

@MarineHawk
Be sure to check your heims - one of the guys on Facebook has an entire set that worked loose after 3K miles.

 

[eckerya]

Looking for advice, just had my 6” RC kit installed, and I am not satisfied with the overall handling of this rig. The way the Jeep tracs when braking, bump in the road, etc. The front coil springs have some sloppyness to them also. Anyone else running this kit can offer any input? I am considering a Rubicon Express trac bar to help solve my issues.

what size tires are those? 40"?

 

[J.Noack]

Your front caster appears way off. Rock Krawler recommends 5.0-5.5 degrees with a 5" kit. Caster being that far off alone will give you horrible handling. The steering will wander and there will be a lot of bump steer. That could also set you up for death wobble. As others have said you need a full set of upper and lower control arms. Adjustable tracbars would be good as well but with 6" of lift you will need tracbar brackets. That doesn't address the draglink as that may need to be flipped on the knuckle to keep it in phase with the tracbar. It looks like the kit has drop brackets for the front control arms but none for the rear. Not sure what they are using to correct the rear pinion angle and the rear axle will be moved forward in the wheel well also.
Not trying to flame you but it never ceases to amaze me how many people buy an inexpensive kit and expect it to ride and handle as well as stock. Those who know are not spending 2-3x the cost of that kit and more because we want to. We do it because we know what the vehicle will need to function properly lifted and want a complete kit engineered to provided it. Ultimately, if you buy a complete set of adjustable control arms and heavy duty trackbars, you will of spent as much as most of spent for an entire kit....and you will still have Rough Country shocks.

What he said.

I have the 6.5" EVO suspension kit with King Coils Overs and every yeti / synergy steering part available. The complete kits make all the difference in the world. With 6.5" of lift, 40" Nittos's, 80mph down the hwy and can put one pinky finger on the wheel and shes steady as stock. Can slam on the brakes and still stays straight as an arrow.
I know the complete kits cost way more, but your going to pay for it now, or later, if you do plan on having it dialed in correctly.
I highly suggest you get a drag link flip kit as well.

 

[DustyGladiator]

That's a lot of lift for 37's. What did you wind up doing?

 

[Eddie M75]

Add the RC Hydraulic bump stops (optional) but just do it, upgrade to the RC adjustable Vertex reservoir shocks and adjustable front trac bar, Add the Clayton's front and rear upper and lower adjustable control arms (Clayton COR-1710200 Jeep Gladiator OVERLAND+ Short Control Arm Kit 2020+),
add the Teraflex steering stabilizer. You will love the RC 6" lift, it will ride like a dream. Oh and upgrade to the JKS quick disconnects (also optional). But with all this it will not only drive amazing it will look amazing. ? throw some 40's on there too

 

[imallcrawl]

I have a 5" lift on 37's and I'm running some of those components from that RC lift kit:

• RC front control arm drop brackets
• RC adjustable trackbars f/r
• RC shocks f/r

My springs are Rockrawler, not RC. However, I am still running my stock control arms and even my stock drive shafts and it drives good, not great, but pretty damn good! I'm installing the Synergy sector shaft/trackbar brace this week just for some added stiffness, we'll see how it goes.

But honestly, I've been driving lifted vehicles since the early 80's and from my experience, having some play in the steering is inevitable on any lifted vehicle.

 

[Rusty PW]

Like everyone else has said. You need a bunch of parts. What no one has said. You also need geo brackets too to help to level out you front control arms.

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