35x11.5R17 for Towing and Offroad??

[DanW]

Crushed shale slices through C rated Duratracs like a razor through butter. I have yet to have a flat with E rated.

Duratrac isn't a good example. My buddy lost a D-rated Duratrac on a trail we did in Moab. My C-rated KO2's went right through it, as did my cousin's JK with C-rated Wildpeak MT's. We had many scars on the sidewalls, but only the Duratrac failed. I've been back to that same trail 2x on General Grabber X3's (C rated) and they held up fine. I've been all over the place with them, in fact, so far so good. But it is hard to compare that way because sometimes you hit a rock just right while someone else doesn't.

I do know that a JK guru on a big JK forum, Mark Dioron, puts tens of thousands of miles on his overlanding rigs. He moved away from Duratracs because he felt the sidewalls were weak, having lost at least a couple of them. I'm pretty sure he was running E-rated 35's. He's the one that steered me away from them when I wore out my KO2's.

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[BlackDog]

Nice work! What's that make the OTD price?

Just under $1400 once all the rebates come in, if my math is correct.

They're on backorder so I have to wait a couple weeks to get them.

 

[Mightytalldude]

Just under $1400 once all the rebates come in, if my math is correct.

They're on backorder so I have to wait a couple weeks to get them.

That was my situation also with them, had to wait a little over a week or so. They're not a typical stock size, so not many places have them on hand in requested qty. I did 5, as I do 5 tire rotations, so the 5th was about 2 weeks after the first 4.

 

[DanW]

Just under $1400 once all the rebates come in, if my math is correct.

They're on backorder so I have to wait a couple weeks to get them.

That is an outstanding deal on what I think is a great tire!

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I'm glad I came across this thread, looks like a good option to upsize from my stock 33's when it's time.

 

[Banned]

Duratrac isn't a good example. My buddy lost a D-rated Duratrac on a trail we did in Moab. My C-rated KO2's went right through it, as did my cousin's JK with C-rated Wildpeak MT's. We had many scars on the sidewalls, but only the Duratrac failed. I've been back to that same trail 2x on General Grabber X3's (C rated) and they held up fine. I've been all over the place with them, in fact, so far so good. But it is hard to compare that way because sometimes you hit a rock just right while someone else doesn't.

I do know that a JK guru on a big JK forum, Mark Dioron, puts tens of thousands of miles on his overlanding rigs. He moved away from Duratracs because he felt the sidewalls were weak, having lost at least a couple of them. I'm pretty sure he was running E-rated 35's. He's the one that steered me away from them when I wore out my KO2's.

Lol, okay. We've been running them for over 10 years on 5 vehicles with no problems (other than C rated). No one I know or ever heard of has had any problems, but one of your buddies got a flat, and you read something on the internet, so let's just go with that.

 

[DanW]

Lol, okay. We've been running them for over 10 years on 5 vehicles with no problems (other than C rated). No one I know or ever heard of has had any problems, but one of your buddies got a flat, and you read something on the internet, so let's just go with that.

Your summary is close but not quite accurate. It's 2 of my buddies. The only 2 guys I know with them. Anecdotal, but batting 1000. Mark is a friend, not just an internet personality. He's got more off-road miles on them than anyone I've seen. And he had more than one fail.

Glad you've had good luck with them. I'm sure many people have.

 

[Andy29847]

E rated tires are thicker and much more puncture resistant than C rated, hence the extra weight.

I have been unable to find any information tire thickness or construction. I expect these items would be guarded by tire manufactures. Heck, published information about tire weights is unreliable. If you have a source, please share it.

I'd guess that you say thicker because of the ply rating. I believe that ply rating no longer refers to the actual number of plies, but instead refers to the ability of the tire to hold air. (Air carries the weight. The tire holds the air.) A tires ability to resist damage will be attributed to many things. Granted, an E rated tire has to be stronger than a C-rated tire. It holds more air.

My C-rated Toyos on my Gladiator do not exhibit a good contact patch (the edges don't touch) when inflated to 36 pounds.

My Toyos are rated at 2910 pounds at 50 PSI. In other words, rated for an axle weight of more than 4800 pounds. The Gladiators axle is only rated for 3750 pounds. From this line of thought, I suspect that if you increase the rear tire inflation pressure above the factory recommended specs written for C-rated tires, and especially when towing, you might feel some improvement in stability.

One last thing. I have often been told that when I go off-road, I should reduce the air pressure in my tires for 3 reasons. Number one is to get a bigger contact patch. Number 2 is to improve the ride. Number three is to lessen the chance of punctures. With this in mind, what pressure do you use with you E rated tires in both on and off road situations?

 

[Mightytalldude]

I'm at 46 on road (per M/T recommendation) and 15 off road. The YouTube video a page or two back will show advantages of lower tire pressure on different tires.

 

[Banned]

I have been unable to find any information tire thickness or construction. I expect these items would be guarded by tire manufactures. Heck, published information about tire weights is unreliable. If you have a source, please share it.

I'd guess that you say thicker because of the ply rating. I believe that ply rating no longer refers to the actual number of plies, but instead refers to the ability of the tire to hold air. (Air carries the weight. The tire holds the air.) A tires ability to resist damage will be attributed to many things. Granted, an E rated tire has to be stronger than a C-rated tire. It holds more air.

My C-rated Toyos on my Gladiator do not exhibit a good contact patch (the edges don't touch) when inflated to 36 pounds.

My Toyos are rated at 2910 pounds at 50 PSI. In other words, rated for an axle weight of more than 4800 pounds. The Gladiators axle is only rated for 3750 pounds. From this line of thought, I suspect that if you increase the rear tire inflation pressure above the factory recommended specs written for C-rated tires, and especially when towing, you might feel some improvement in stability.

One last thing. I have often been told that when I go off-road, I should reduce the air pressure in my tires for 3 reasons. Number one is to get a bigger contact patch. Number 2 is to improve the ride. Number three is to lessen the chance of punctures. With this in mind, what pressure do you use with you E rated tires in both on and off road situations?

An E rated tire weighs more than a C rated tire of the exact same size and manufacturer. This isn't rocket science. You can choose what you want to believe.

 

[Andy29847]

An E rated tire weighs more than a C rated tire of the exact same size and manufacturer. This isn't rocket science. You can choose what you want to believe.

Really?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Those are two different tires lol.

 

[Andy29847]

Those are two different tires lol.

The E-rated Ridge Grappler is the only one I can find in the OP specified size (35x11.50).

 

[DanW]

An E rated tire weighs more than a C rated tire of the exact same size and manufacturer. This isn't rocket science. You can choose what you want to believe.

Generally, because they are designed to hold more air pressure. But tread depth can be a variable, too. And they can be slightly different size.....as in diameter and width, without changing the rated size.

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