37's on a Sport S- Recomendations

[DocMike]

Should suit your needs then. I know I got by for a long time with Rubicon take offs and a terra flex spacer to account for winch and steel bumper. I rubbed with he sway bar disconnected a bit.

Thanks, I measured my clearance on the 37's and factory suspension, 2-3/8", so I absolutely can't go any higher than that.




Thanks! That's good to know, I've got a $25 quadratec GC after buying my tazer, and they have the 1.5" daystar "kit" for $90, might be worthwhile to get that kit just to see where it comes in, at only 1.5" I could always sell it after if I want more lift and install the 3.5" kit I have. It looks like I could use my adjustable control arms and track bar with it to get everything dialed in. I'd like a bit of wiggle room just for the weight variances, (riding solo vs the whole family, doors & hardtop vs Naked, ect...). I lost about 3/8" with the winch/bumper, so an extra 500#s of family I would assume would drop it a bit more than that

I'm not hunting a ton of flex right now, my control arms are all poly bushings, once it's not a brand new truck, I might swap those out for johnny joints and some better springs as I use it more and more off-road. Right now just light trail riding/forest trails.

Sponsored

 

[BringTheLightnin]

This is mine with mopar 2” lift closer to 3” on a sport with 3/4” spacer up front and stock fenders. 37s and 5.13 gears.

Same setup with metalcloak fenders.
If you decide on no lift I would look into doing a fender chop on your stock fenders or doing aftermarket fenders. You could also look at rubicon take off suspension for just a little extra lift.

Mine with the setup above clears a 7 foot garage door with a few inches to spare.

I know this an old thread but with the stock fenders, do the tires rub the fenders with sway bar disconnected? I like my painted fenders on my 80th anniversary and have the Mopar lift but want to move from 35s to 37s. Maybe a spacer as well?

 

[Panthers65]

I know this an old thread but with the stock fenders, do the tires rub the fenders with sway bar disconnected? I like my painted fenders on my 80th anniversary and have the Mopar lift but want to move from 35s to 37s. Maybe a spacer as well?

Mine did, I ended up going flat fenders

 

[Boostnu]

I know this an old thread but with the stock fenders, do the tires rub the fenders with sway bar disconnected? I like my painted fenders on my 80th anniversary and have the Mopar lift but want to move from 35s to 37s. Maybe a spacer as well?

Mine didn’t with the spacer up front but I’m running Antirock so idk if that would make a difference over being fully disconnected.

 

[XJADDICTION]

I have 37’s BfG AT KO 2’s about 36” es tall. With 3.5” Clayton overland lift and Falcon 3 shocks mine would fit in garage (just barely) without the RTT.
I know so many hate the BfG AT KO’s but I’ve used them for years on rigs that see a lot of road driving (my JT has 98,000 miles on the clock). I have driven a lot of off-road out west and in TN. They do fine until you hit clay and mud. I have a winch to take care of me then (I’ve never used it for my JT).
My BfG AT’s have 60,000+ miles on them, still have 1/3rd tread left, See pics

put the lift in it… my 2 pennies worth of advice

 

[BringTheLightnin]

Mine did, I ended up going flat fenders

Maybe a chop would fix that but let me keep my fenders? I feel like the added height vs the chop would give me the same flex I have now. If my math is correct...

 

[BringTheLightnin]

I have 37’s BfG AT KO 2’s about 36” es tall. With 3.5” Clayton overland lift and Falcon 3 shocks mine would fit in garage (just barely) without the RTT.
I know so many hate the BfG AT KO’s but I’ve used them for years on rigs that see a lot of road driving (my JT has 98,000 miles on the clock). I have driven a lot of off-road out west and in TN. They do fine until you hit clay and mud. I have a winch to take care of me then (I’ve never used it for my JT).
My BfG AT’s have 60,000+ miles on them, still have 1/3rd tread left, See pics

put the lift in it… my 2 pennies worth of advice

I have a set of Yokohama Geolander X-ATs that came on the truck and I really didn't expect much of them but they have surprised me in every way possible. So much so that I'll probably get them again when moving to 37s. Or maybe move to the X-MT they offer. But they do awesome in mud or rock and are great on road in wet conditions. Clay is ok depending on how wet and deep it is but still havent had to winch out anywhere. Still waiting on it to snow here to see how they work there. I live in NC, so not a whole lot of snow.

 

[XJADDICTION]

The Yokohama Geolander is no doubt a great tire, traction is similar to the BFG AT IMOP. I had them in a heavy 1 ton so mileage comparison is not a good example of mileage duration but mine got 40,000 before they were finished with duty

every Jeep I’ve had the BFG KTO 35”including them on my 1 tone trucks they have lasted at least 60,000 miles. In my little Cherokee XJ that saw a lot of off road lasted 80,000 miles. Those were pre KO2.

my JT sees a lot of road miles but often in back country for BLM camping. I have never been stuck in some pretty nasty stuff and slick Rick out west is a breeze with them. Washboard roads aired down 37’s are incredible.
I probably will not use another tire in the JT except BFG AT KO2. My JT is always running heavier than probably most JTs for DD

Mud tires, on a near DD (my 2013 coyote GT Mustang convertible has 30,000 miles and is a no rain garage queen). Mud tires wear quickly on the street and interstate and are always LOUD when worn even at 20,000 miles with good care rotation and balance with alignment. I hate all MTs for my DD Jeeps.
I’ve had every from Super Swamper TSL radials, to BFG MTs.

 

[Panthers65]

Maybe a chop would fix that but let me keep my fenders? I feel like the added height vs the chop would give me the same flex I have now. If my math is correct...

Yea you would get the same thing with a chop. To be clear I was running a full width bumper too, the tires rubbed the bumper before the fenders, but I didn't like the look of the stubby bumper and factory fenders, so I did both at the same time.

If the tires were just rubbing plastic I would have left it, but getting into the metal bumper would create issues. IMO, if I were you I'd get the tires on and see how bad it rubs. Budget for the chop kit but don't go straight to it.

 

[Proximo]

I know this an old thread but with the stock fenders, do the tires rub the fenders with sway bar disconnected? I like my painted fenders on my 80th anniversary and have the Mopar lift but want to move from 35s to 37s. Maybe a spacer as well?

2.5" with 37's, I needed a chop, but that's for off-roading. If you disco, you will rip em off

 

[XJADDICTION]

Back to OP question, do 2.5” lift with extended bump stops after fender and bumper chop

 

[BringTheLightnin]

2.5" with 37's, I needed a chop, but that's for off-roading. If you disco, you will rip em off

That's what I'm worried about. I don't wanna rip off my pretty red fenders lol.
Also how do you like those Patagonias? I've seen those things crawl some serious rocks

 

[BringTheLightnin]

Yea you would get the same thing with a chop. To be clear I was running a full width bumper too, the tires rubbed the bumper before the fenders, but I didn't like the look of the stubby bumper and factory fenders, so I did both at the same time.

If the tires were just rubbing plastic I would have left it, but getting into the metal bumper would create issues. IMO, if I were you I'd get the tires on and see how bad it rubs. Budget for the chop kit but don't go straight to it.

I went with a stubby after much research. I didn't like the stubby look at first but it has grown on me. I think eventually I'll get a modular bumper so I can take the ends off if need be.

 

[MrClortho]

2) go ahead and install the 3.5" lift- I'm not sure if I would like the look of 3.5 higher than what it is now, especially with how little my tires stick out. Pros: Offroad/Articulation Benefit, no chance of rubbing even under flex, already have all the components (lift + 8 adjustable control arms). Cons: not sure how it would look with this tire/wheel package another 3.5" higher (top heavy?), Would no longer fit in my garage.

3) Go with a 2" lift. I would either need a spacer lift or a company that is sure I'll only get 2" or less out of the lift, most companies for some reason advertise a smaller number than you actually net. Pros: A little extra clearance and eliminate the "rake", as long as it's <2" I'll still fit in the garage, Similar look to the below. Cons: I don't believe my current control arms will work with a 2" lift, so I couldn't use them. Already have the 3.5" kit so I would need to sell it and buy a 2" lift.

What do yall think? What would look best?
Note: I'm not driving the jeep like this, it's rubbing on the metal bumper and I don't want chunks taken out of my tires, just pulled it out for the pictures and back in the garage to get the factory tires put back on.

There is a lot of good advice here. Hopefully I can help a little too as I on 37s with a Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus kit that netted more like 4"-5" of lift.

3.5"
My first thought was to install the 3.5" kit, but I read what the kit is made of and thought maybe. I am assuming you have the other components like track bars, brake extensions, bump stop lengths, etc...already worked out and either have the knowledge or will take it to someone that can set the control arms and alignment up properly.

With regards to being "top heavy", my Glad feels more stable than stock, but I could argue the reason is Clayton makes the highest quality box kits out there. I can run 80mph with 3 fingers on the wheel and tow a 4klbs trailer monthly with no drama.

I fit in the garage by about 1.5".

2"
I started with a simple 2" spacer lift, shock relocation brackets, stock bump stops and 35's. On my first wheeling trip, I had to stop right out of the gate or tear fenders off the rear. I jumped out to rip them off like I did on my JK's and my wife stopped me, lol. Even with 35's, 2" was not enough to save the fender flairs. You can see below I am resting on the flair but still had about 1/2" of travel left. After long discussions and budgeting, we decided to go big or go home after that. The 2" and 35's were a mistake for us and a financial hit.

Gears
You mentioned gears and this is should be your next top priority in my opinion. I went 5.13s and so glad I did. 4.88s would not have been. I can run in 8th gear on the highway and get 16-17mpg. Before the gears, I had to manually shift to stay in 6th or 7th and was happy to get 14mpg at best.

All that aside, when I was on 35's and 3.73's, that first wheeling trip, I had a climb over a big rock to navigate. In 4Lo, I was at about 80% throttle and the Jeep would hardly climb it. With the 5.13's it becomes a non-factor.

 

[Proximo]

That's what I'm worried about. I don't wanna rip off my pretty red fenders lol.
Also how do you like those Patagonias? I've seen those things crawl some serious rocks

I'm very happy with the Pat's. They've been really nice onroad and performed well off-roading in woods, mud, sand, and rocks.

Sponsored