$59,999 OTD price for an LE - good?

[nevershaw]

That is the current offer without any counter offer. Still waiting to hear what the price of the Jeep itself is without the fees/extras.

What should I counter with?

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[z0lt3c]

It's very hard to comment on an OTD price. At at a minimum we would need to know the MSRP. Things like fees, taxes and rebates vary by region.

You should ask for the pre-incentive discount, which is effectively the discount offered by the dealer. A rough target here is 10% off MSRP. Then you should ask for an account of the rebates being applied. When you add these together, you want to be somewhere between 15% to 20% off MSRP.

The rest should be fairly constant from dealer to dealer unless you get a real scummy one.

 

[jwilson2899]

I see your profile says DE. I bought my LE in VA in November for about $56k OTD, and have seen many others get deals around that number on an LE. At this point, most of them have been on the lots for many months, so if you are willing to play hardball you should be able to get a better deal.

 

[kostik76]

I can only recommend checking with your insurance to see if there are discounts. For example all state has new car corp discount for its customers, so on wranglers it is a safe bet you will pay below sticker...

 

[19JL]

No less then 14% off MSRP is a great starting point before TTT and fees.

 

[Hootbro]

Hopefully you are not dealing with Carman Jeep in New Castle. Avoid them like the plague.

 

[dh650]

That is the current offer without any counter offer. Still waiting to hear what the price of the Jeep itself is without the fees/extras.

What should I counter with?

Earlier this week I received a quote from a dealer here who has a Rubicon LE still on the lot. Sticker is $62,310 and they quoted me $57,379 ($1,000 under invoice according to dealer) plus fees. I really don't know if this a a good deal or not but I wanted to post here so you can use it for comparison.

https://www.stewartchryslerdodgejee...or-colma-158fcab70a0e0a6b404338b5e0a71495.htm

 

[Phljeeper]

It is not a good deal. Most have been getting 5% below invoice long before the Covid challenges dealers are facing. You should be able to get a much better deal. I bought mine almost a year ago about a month after they were released for 5% below invoice.

 

[dh650]

It is not a good deal. Most have been getting 5% below invoice long before the Covid challenges dealers are facing. You should be able to get a much better deal. I bought mine almost a year ago about a month after they were released for 5% below invoice.

Yeah that was what I was thinking based on what I've read on various forums, and knowing what most Jeep dealers are willing to do to move inventory. FCA really does need to continue with incentives because these things aren't moving like they want, and many outside the Jeep community always bring it back to price. For those of us who "get" the Jeep lifestyle it's often worth paying a bit more for a vehicle that does many things that no others can.

 

[NC_Gladiato]

That is the current offer without any counter offer. Still waiting to hear what the price of the Jeep itself is without the fees/extras.

What should I counter with?

This is what I did. I lived 4 hours from the dealership and called the guy to negotiate a price so I wouldn't waste my time. He wouldn't give me a final price but said he would see if he could get it in the 54-56 range but I had to be there. The sticker price on it was close to 62k. I told the guy he better not waste my time. I drove the four hours and had a set price I would pay up to, but was willing to walk out. Once I got there, he initially came with a 56k price, but I wrote down my walk out price 54,750 on a sheet of paper he had. Thirty seconds later he came back, shook my hand and had a Gladiator sold. I actually could have gotten it a few hundred dollars cheaper, but I was fine paying that price.

They have all these bullshit discounts that can apply to you, but if they can give those discounts to those people, they can give it out to anybody. Military discount? No, but you can still give me that discount even if I'm not military. (and so on) Have a deadset price you will pay and be prepared to walk out.

 

[SwampNut]

I bought mine in early April after asking three dealers to give me a written (email) full OTD price that would not be negotiated. Basically, bid against each other. Only one had an LE, and it was $59k, with high book on my trade-in. The OTD price varies by area, because we have extremely high taxes and registration fees on new cars. My registration alone was almost $800! It drops along with value, so it goes down every year. Still, it's simply rape.

Discounts are a silly game. I've bought every Jeep at a price well below all of the available discounts. The only one that my dealer said comes off AFTER other deals are made is that one trail preservation club, forget the name.

 

[steelponycowboy]

You can't really compare OTD because different states, cities, counties will have different fees and taxes.

Compare actual price of the vehicle for any real idea if you are getting a good deal. I've seen 10% as being a target, I've also heard of several dealers in CA selling for 12% or more. Of course your best deal is a cash deal with no trade in. So many people complain about a great deal only to get a crap offer on their trade. You can't have you cake and eat it too.

If you really want to know if you are getting a great deal, compare the actual net price before taxes, tags, fees and other add on stuff. Also negotiate not paying any doc fee. I have walked out of dealers in the past after refusing to pay for their $599 doc fee. They ran after me and agreed to drop it.

 

[SwampNut]

Of course your best deal is a cash deal

Almost never. The dealer nearly always would prefer to finance. Some even have a cap on cash prices. My selling dealer was pretty unhappy that I refinanced right away, but I did give them a chance to reduce their finance kickback and get me a more reasonable rate. When I bought my JKUR, they had a max down of $20k if you wanted to get their lowest pricing, and a gentleman's agreement (handshake, not contract) to wait at least four months to pay off the rest.

 

[steelponycowboy]

Almost never. The dealer nearly always would prefer to finance. Some even have a cap on cash prices. My selling dealer was pretty unhappy that I refinanced right away, but I did give them a chance to reduce their finance kickback and get me a more reasonable rate. When I bought my JKUR, they had a max down of $20k if you wanted to get their lowest pricing, and a gentleman's agreement (handshake, not contract) to wait at least four months to pay off the rest.

I used to be an F&I Manager at a large dealership, you still continue to show your ignorance of the real inner workings of dealerships and how you rely on what a dealer tells you to be the gospel truth.

Every dollar they take off of the price of the new car is a dollar less that you get on your trade. As for the finance kick back, they get that within the 1st month after the deal closes. The finance kick back is the difference between the banks lowest rate and the rate that the dealer charges you. I don't know about you but I can get the same rate the dealer pays at my credit union. If they are offering 0% interest, there is NO finance kickback.

You really need an education about dealer practices and bank workings because you continually give bad information here.

 

[SwampNut]

I didn't say a word about trades, and none of this info is from my dealers (I've bought from far more than one). The info on financing comes from the auto financing subreddit, where F&I people give advice on getting the best deals. Nearly everyone there constantly says that financing gets you the best deal, even 0% financing has a kickback.

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