Anyone have experience with Dobinsons rear coils on Mojave?

[Artidemic13]

Assuming by block height you mean coil bind, none of them are hitting that before the bump stops anyway. No a larger wire spring cannot be softer than a smaller wire one unless the smaller wire one is into actual coil bind, which makes the spring rate effectively infinite as you cannot compress it further. You should have your bump stops set up to stop compression before that happens. The same infinite spring rate happens when your shocks bottom out, again to be avoided via bump stops. Spring rate at ride height is what most manufacturers publish as that is what matters 99% of the time. Driving around on the street you are typically only using 2-3" of suspension travel. The benefits of a dual or triple rate spring pretty much only come into play off road. Medium rate at ride height so it rides around nice on the road without flopping around like a fish. Light rate at full droop so it feels like landing on clouds when you take a crest at speed and get a little air with a nice downhill landing. Really high rate when approaching full bump to keep from slamming into the bump stops and aids the shocks in slowing the suspension movement before bottoming out. None of that really matters on the road. That's why the mojave internal bypass shocks ride so well on the street, they are in the ride zone where they are just firm enough. Lift it without shock extensions and the ride goes to shit. Load it up heavy so you are into the compression zone and they are so stiff you'll think you're hitting the bump stops just driving around. For non-bypass shocks it doesn't matter as they'll ride the same just about anywhere in the stroke as long as you aren't bottoming them out or fully extending them.

So, by this logic, I should also add bump stop extensions to my Mojave when I throw in the Clayton 1.5” coils? Even if my constant load lowers me back down to more or less factory height in the rear and puts me back into the “ride zone” of my stock shocks?

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[Artidemic13]

Now that I think of it… I guess, yes, I should add bump stop extensions, because otherwise, theoretically, I could bottom out the shock before I fully compress the spring or hit the bump stops. Am I understanding this right?

 

[Zachanadandy]

Now that I think of it… I guess, yes, I should add bump stop extensions, because otherwise, theoretically, I could bottom out the shock before I fully compress the spring or hit the bump stops. Am I understanding this right?

Assuming you aren't changing the shocks, you won't need to change bump stops as they are already set up from the factory to prevent bottoming. If you add shock extensions then you'll likely need to add bump stop.

 

[Artidemic13]

Assuming you aren't changing the shocks, you won't need to change bump stops as they are already set up from the factory to prevent bottoming. If you add shock extensions then you'll likely need to add bump stop.

Ok, I think that makes sense. So even with the longer/stiffer springs, I’m good unless I add shock extension brackets.

I guess my next question, then, would be whether I need the shock extensions with the new coils. As @JustAGuyCalledChris had mentioned to me in another thread, with the added weight on these 1.5” coils, I should be back down to more or less stock height. Not sure if that means I don’t need shock extensions, or if I’ll need them regardless because I’m going with longer spring. I guess I thought the extensions were more for droop/down-travel than compression, but I’m never sure I quite comprehend the concepts. I want to protect my shocks to the extent possible when driving off-road, but I don’t want to add components that aren’t necessary.

 

[JustAGuyCalledChris]

The shocks I ordered are for a 0-1.5” lift so I did not do anything with bump stops yet. I’ll test things out when they arrive and see if anything else is needed.

 

[Artidemic13]

The shocks I ordered are for a 0-1.5” lift so I did not do anything with bump stops yet. I’ll test things out when they arrive and see if anything else is needed.

But maybe the stock Mojave shocks (Fox 2.5 IBPs) would need them ... going to call Clayton to make sure.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Assuming by block height you mean coil bind, none of them are hitting that before the bump stops anyway. No a larger wire spring cannot be softer than a smaller wire one unless the smaller wire one is into actual coil bind, which makes the spring rate effectively infinite as you cannot compress it further. should have your bump stops set up to stop compression before that happens.

Yes, block height is the point where the coil is in full bind and YES this can happen with lighter rate springs, with more coil wraps, that have a long free length when installed into aftermarket applications. Proper bump spacing is critical! I see a couple of rigs in every year that I can see the powdercoating is worn in between the coils indicating that the spring IS the hard bumpstop.

I used to hear my super long 125ish lb front springs rattle when they got compressesd quickly because they were right on the ragged edge of binding at full stuff. The fix was a higher rate spring, with less wraps, and a shorter free legnth to give me the desired ride height while providing the ride frequency that I desired.

You are not going to convince me that multi rate springs can't really be multi rate spring because the diameter of the wire is the same throughout all of the rates. Respectfully, I think you need to educate yourself some more before trying to tell me I'm incorrect? Just look at a multi rate spring pic and it should be obvious to you that the same wire diameer CAN INDEED produce different effective rates depending on coil diameter and spacing between the coils. This is why wire diameter, coil diameter, number of coils, wire material/heat treating, and free legnth dimensions are required to calculate a coil's rate.

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