Anyone running the rockkrawler pro-x on their JT

[Zachanadandy]

I like the idea of getting the uppers and lowers close to the same length. Triangulated uppers and no track bar seems like a heck of a bonus and should make fitting a 37" spare underneath the truck easier too. How does it ride? How does it handle? Basically gives you a full Triangulated long arm setup in the rear which should help with pinion angles through the suspension travel too.

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[Levi.Butler]

I've got it. Couldn't be happier.

 

[mx5red]

I like the idea of getting the uppers and lowers close to the same length. Triangulated uppers and no track bar seems like a heck of a bonus and should make fitting a 37" spare underneath the truck easier too. How does it ride? How does it handle? Basically gives you a full Triangulated long arm setup in the rear which should help with pinion angles through the suspension travel too.

I’m pretty happy. I think when I did it I could tell there was less crosstalk between front and rear axles going over big bumps, and less side to side bobbing when turning into driveways and such.

I justified it as, this is kind of like getting an adjustable track bar, rear upper relocation brackets to help with droop geometry, and adjustable upper control arms. Which would cost I think about the same or more than the pro-x.
Probably not a necessary upgrade but I think it’s better than adding those other parts, which plenty of people do.
Drilling the axle wasn’t super fun, but doable.
You can’t fit a metalcloak diaper skid on the rear diff, if that matters.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I’m pretty happy. I think when I did it I could tell there was less crosstalk between front and rear axles going over big bumps, and less side to side bobbing when turning into driveways and such.

I justified it as, this is kind of like getting an adjustable track bar, rear upper relocation brackets to help with droop geometry, and adjustable upper control arms. Which would cost I think about the same or more than the pro-x.
Probably not a necessary upgrade but I think it’s better than adding those other parts, which plenty of people do.
Drilling the axle wasn’t super fun, but doable.
You can’t fit a metalcloak diaper skid on the rear diff, if that matters.

Did you drill and tap under the vehicle or remove the whole axle assembly?

 

[zuki_dan]

I have it in mine also. Does ride better in the back it follows straight over bumps instead of have the axle move with the track bar.

I did the drill and tap with the axle under the truck and axle drooped down. I also highly suggest to weld the truss to the axle. I welded about and inch or so on both sides of the truss. It also helps control the pinion angle change by increasing the link separation at the axle.

I switched to the longest falcon shocks and have plenty of rear travel with this setup and rear antirock swaybar. I did have to put the teraflex rear spring retainers in to keep from un-seating the rear springs.

 

[mx5red]

Did you drill and tap under the vehicle or remove the whole axle assembly?

Raised the rear up on stands and did it attached. Doable, a little awkward. The drill kept grabbing and kicking out, I had to use step bits before getting to the included drill bit.

 

[Dickster]

The JT should of came from the factory with it. No rear track bar no binding and smooths things out. Cleans up the rear axle a lot. I have longer shocks to allow more droop and no binding and full movement.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I'm trying to make this mojave as stable as possible at freeway+ speeds in the desert. I know the stock shocks won't let me take advantage of all the potential travel but they are just so dialed over rough terrain stock I don't want to get rid of them yet. I am running the AEV mojave kit with 2" shock extensions to clear the 37s. Ultimately I'd like to go with fox 3.0s but that's a long way off. I told the wife I'd keep this one stock when I bought it...4 weeks ago. Less than 2k miles and it's already lifted on 37s and I've planted the seed about adding the pro-x. Front Bumper and winch are coming too. Front drop brackets would be the budget move for the best ride up front, but might go long arm next year.

 

[Dickster]

I'm trying to make this mojave as stable as possible at freeway+ speeds in the desert. I know the stock shocks won't let me take advantage of all the potential travel but they are just so dialed over rough terrain stock I don't want to get rid of them yet. I am running the AEV mojave kit with 2" shock extensions to clear the 37s. Ultimately I'd like to go with fox 3.0s but that's a long way off. I told the wife I'd keep this one stock when I bought it...4 weeks ago. Less than 2k miles and it's already lifted on 37s and I've planted the seed about adding the pro-x. Front Bumper and winch are coming too. Front drop brackets would be the budget move for the best ride up front, but might go long arm next year.

I would thing the 4-link kit would at better stability. It's a better design than a track bar as it's equally mounted. Honestly I wouldn't even touch 3.0 shocks, to even scratch their advantage over the 2.5s you will need trussed 60s.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I would thing the 4-link kit would at better stability. It's a better design than a track bar as it's equally mounted. Honestly I wouldn't even touch 3.0 shocks, to even scratch their advantage over the 2.5s you will need trussed 60s.

A trussed 44 will be fine, and lighter is better when going fast, especially in the unsprung weight department.

 

[Dickster]

A trussed 44 will be fine, and lighter is better when going fast, especially in the unsprung weight department.

With the right valving king 2.5s would require trussing on my Ram 3500. I guess it's your money but I would look at custom valved 2.5s save a ton of money.

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