Auxiliary Switch pod light wiring question…

[Dryfly24]

I bought a couple pod lights recently from a popular local 4x4 shop. I told them my truck was pre wired with the auxiliary switch group and they told me they were familiar with it and it would make it easy.

When I went to pick up the truck though they showed me how they had wired it to the battery with a fuse and also to auxiliary switch 3 as I had requested.

However that seems wrong to me. I was under the impression all they had to do was wire directly to the corresponding number 3 wire in the auxiliary harness as everything is already rigged for power, fuses, etc? I pointed that out and they told me that no. It still needed the fuse and power, etc.

As soon as I left the shop I noticed something weird. I had a check engine light on. Which I’ve never had before. I brought it back and when they checked it it showed this code:

They cleared it, and it hasn’t come back. Basically they chalked It up electrical system sensitivity. Lights are working fine and the warning light hasn’t come back. Any thoughts?

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[Josh00333]

The lights still need a ground, is that what they wired to the battery?

IF they work then by default they are wired right. I guess LOL.

Mine are set to aux 3 and 4. I ran the grounds to the ground stud in the eng by by the battery for one and to the ground behind the spare tire for the rear set.

 

[Dryfly24]

The lights still need a ground, is that what they wired to the battery?

IF they work then by default they are wired right. I guess LOL.

Mine are set to aux 3 and 4. I ran the grounds to the ground stud in the eng by by the battery for one and to the ground behind the spare tire for the rear set.

No they ran the ground to the ground and also the red power wire to the positive post.

 

[Josh00333]

Ok, hmmm. Did the wire in a solenoid? In which case they way over complicated it; but there they are using the power off the aux to energize the solenoid. Then yes the lights still need power and grounds etc. But that's kind of dumb considering every thing was already there. Will work, just like I said over complicated.

 

[AZCooWhip]

I’d have them redo it. If you have the factory Aux switches in the cab, there is zero reason to go to the battery.

 

[Josh00333]

Got a pic?

 

[Dryfly24]

Ok, hmmm. Did the wire in a solenoid? In which case they way over complicated it; but there they are using the power off the aux to energize the solenoid. Then yes the lights still need power and grounds etc. But that's kind of dumb considering every thing was already there. Will work, just like I said over complicated.

Yes they did…

 

[Dryfly24]

I

Got a pic?

l‘ll get one.

I knew they were going way overboard. If it won’t cause any problems I’m not too worried about it. But Im just afraid doubling up on the power like that is not good?

 

[Dryfly24]

This is the reason I let them do it. I‘m good tightening bolts and messing with simple mechanics but I don’t know squat about electrical systems and didn’t want issues. I trusted them to know hat they were talking about.

 

[Rockabillyroy]

This is the reason I let them do it. I‘m good tightening bolts and messing with simple mechanics but I don’t know squat about electrical systems and didn’t want issues. I trusted them to know hat they were talking about.

The factory preinstalled aux switch is pretty much made for folks that aren't comfortable with wiring.
It's not 'dummy' proof, but pretty darn close.

Those connection should easily provide enough power for a pair of led light pods. And, they're are already individually fused.

On top of that, one of the major points of the aux system is to clean up a rats nest of wires going to the battery.

 

[exfil offroad]

I bought a couple pod lights recently from a popular local 4x4 shop. I told them my truck was pre wired with the auxiliary switch group and they told me they were familiar with it and it would make it easy.

When I went to pick up the truck though they showed me how they had wired it to the battery with a fuse and also to auxiliary switch 3 as I had requested.

However that seems wrong to me. I was under the impression all they had to do was wire directly to the corresponding number 3 wire in the auxiliary harness as everything is already rigged for power, fuses, etc? I pointed that out and they told me that no. It still needed the fuse and power, etc.

As soon as I left the shop I noticed something weird. I had a check engine light on. Which I’ve never had before. I brought it back and when they checked it it showed this code:

They cleared it, and it hasn’t come back. Basically they chalked It up electrical system sensitivity. Lights are working fine and the warning light hasn’t come back. Any thoughts?

ive wired lights, grms radios, and arb air pumps to those aux switches. you can do both (connect to battery, and also connect straight to switch). The aux switches are powered directly and that power is contained through the supplied fuse for the aux relay, so you really only have to then ground, which if the device is outside the vehicle you can run both power and ground next to the battery box, or if inside you can run the power down the passenger foot well and there is the same relays on the inside and spot for ground already set up. What they did was run additional fuses from the batter box to the aux lead in the engine bay. Its not wrong, and is extra safety in case the device blows, your aux does not (either way its a fuse that will blow first), ive done this with the arb air compressors. As for the communication error, probably caused if they disconnected your battery.

 

[Dryfly24]

ive wired lights, grms radios, and arb air pumps to those aux switches. you can do both (connect to battery, and also connect straight to switch). The aux switches are powered directly and that power is contained through the supplied fuse for the aux relay, so you really only have to then ground, which if the device is outside the vehicle you can run both power and ground next to the battery box, or if inside you can run the power down the passenger foot well and there is the same relays on the inside and spot for ground already set up. What they did was run additional fuses from the batter box to the aux lead in the engine bay. Its not wrong, and is extra safety in case the device blows, your aux does not (either way its a fuse that will blow first), ive done this with the arb air compressors. As for the communication error, probably caused if they disconnected your battery.

Thanks, I feel better about it now. I knew it was all prewired and didn’t need all that extra junk. I told them as much but they did what they did. Maybe to justify charging me for more time. Whatever. Just wanted to make sure it wouldn’t cause a conflict in the electrical system.

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