Battery issues in 2023

[Mojave Stinger]

Hey New to this group. I have a 2023 gladiator, up until September never had any issues with my batteries. I have replaced both in November, unhook all after market LED lights, because as you all know dealership try blaming all issues on that. My auto start isn't working, I have to jump start my jeep if it sits more then 24 hours. I am annoyed and its driving me crazy as to what's going.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Hey New to this group. I have a 2023 gladiator, up until September never had any issues with my batteries. I have replaced both in November, unhook all after market LED lights, because as you all know dealership try blaming all issues on that. My auto start isn't working, I have to jump start my jeep if it sits more then 24 hours. I am annoyed and its driving me crazy as to what's going.

Did you charge both batteries before installing them?
Did you unplug the IBS and leave it disconnected for 30 seconds while replacing the batteries?
How often do you drive it - and how far?
Have you added any other accessories?

And finally - it's very possible to have a newer battery that is bad.

 

[Hootbro]

That is a pretty good parasitic draw. I would suggest getting a DC capable amp clamp multimeter and brush up on the YouTubes concerning parasitic draw and start pulling fuses and going from there. If electrical is not your thing, find somebody that can put eyes on it that can help.

Only wild card I will say check before getting too involved is check the trailer connectors for corrosion.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That is a pretty good parasitic draw.

If it's a parasitic draw and not bad battery, then it's enough to eventually ruin a good battery cycling it like that!

 

[Hootbro]

If it's a parasitic draw and not bad battery, then it's enough to eventually ruin a good battery cycling it like that!

True, but it is like all these other battery problem threads over the years, sometimes to figure out what it is means going through and eliminating what it is not.

Hand carrying people that do not understand basic DC theory electrical can be like herding kittens sometimes. If the OP was looking for a one and done magic bullet answer, it is almost never the case.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

True, but it is like all these other battery problem threads over the years, sometimes to figure out what it is means going through and eliminating what it is not.

Hand carrying people that do not understand basic DC theory electrical can be like herding kittens sometimes. If the OP was looking for a one and done magic bullet answer, it is almost never the case.

Very well said, and that's often how troubleshooting has to go ...know or prove what it isn't

 

[ShadowsPapa]

True, but it is like all these other battery problem threads over the years, sometimes to figure out what it is means going through and eliminating what it is not.

Hand carrying people that do not understand basic DC theory electrical can be like herding kittens sometimes. If the OP was looking for a one and done magic bullet answer, it is almost never the case.

BTW - herding kittens is often easier, voice of experience with kittens/cats.

 

[miggy]

I have a stock 2023 gladiator willys sport with dead battery issues over night. Voltagge drops down to 11.8-12.1 volts. I have 45,230 miles and drove it off the lot brand new 22 months ago. It has never once not started in the last 22 month until Sunday morning. I did the aux battery delete by removing the negative cable and the fuse for ess. Ess still worked at a red light, not sure why/how. What else should I check? Thanks.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a stock 2023 gladiator willys sport with dead battery issues over night. Voltagge drops down to 11.8-12.1 volts. I have 45,230 miles and drove it off the lot brand new 22 months ago. It has never once not started in the last 22 month until Sunday morning. I did the aux battery delete by removing the negative cable and the fuse for ess. Ess still worked at a red light, not sure why/how. What else should I check? Thanks.

All you did was remove the aux battery, it does NOT eliminate ESS in any way. Unless you get a tazer, ESS will work.

That fuse you pulled only prevent an error, nothing more, nothing less. IT isn't an ESS fuse, it's the fuse for the PCR - you simply stopped the system from opening the PCR and looking for the aux battery.

These things will start in really low voltages, so starting doesn't mean there's nothing wrong with the battery.

How often do you drive it?
When you drive it - how far and for how LONG do you drive it?
It's possible you don't drive it often or far enough to actually get the battery fully charged.
Use a GOOD AGM charger, not a maintainer or trickle charger, but one capable of charging over 5 to 10 amps, and make sure it's for AGM batteries and charge the battery.
You know nothing at all until you try that. And we can't really say more without more info such as how often and how long you drive it, if you've ever bothered to actually charge the battery and so on.

 

[miggy]

Thanks, I drive it everyday. My commute 5 days a week is 45 miles round-trip on the freeway. Weekends and vacations, again 45k miles in 22 months. It's a rarity to sit for a whole 24hrs without turning the wheels. Some short trips to the store and such. My muscle memory is to turm off the ESS with the button upon starting the vehicle. Just got the battery from. O'Reilly and they said it's bad. Crazy it can go bad without a single warning. No dash warnings, again not a single miss start. It has even been a very mild winter where I live. No deep freezes in weeks. I bought a noco 5 amp that I'll try tonight to see it i can start it in the morning.

Side note on jumping, with the AGM being a higher operating voltage. My lithium jumper pack will not work on this vehicle. Could that be because the voltage is still high (11.8-12.2) when it doesn't start? I got it started with a jump from my friends truck. Any info on battery jumpers that work in this voltage with AGM batteries?

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