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Checking plugs, pesky bolts, need help!!!

Volt0

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I had some weird behavior with my stock JTM about a month ago (55k miles), where on the highway it would cut-out and then resume to normal. It seemed almost rhythmic, like maybe every minute to 5 minutes. Almost felt like a quick downshift, making ppl’s heads nod forward. No lights on the dash, hasn’t returned since.

I thought maybe that I would inspect my plugs during my next maintenance, and can get the intake plenum off and out of the way, but I’m having two trouble spots:

  1. any trick to remove that driver’s side weaved hose that appears to have black tape around the end?
  2. any trick ( or special tool ) that really helps with removing the bolt on the driver’s front coil pack ( obscured by the metal bracket )?

Note: for anyone trying to do this themselves, I would recommend the following:
  • thin walled deep sockets ( 8mm & 10mm ) with a few variations of extensions
  • a pic to help with the electrical connectors and restraints; practice undoing a zip-tie first. Take your time with the connectors so that you don’t break them
  • Christmas tree puller thingy
  • undo the two nuts holding the radiator overflow res, lift it up, and hang it on the next bolt post over for more working room
  • no need to remove the EGR assembly ( if that’s what it’s called ) just remove the 2 bolts connecting the tube; don’t lose the gasket. On the other end of that tubing, take 1 bolt out and loosen the other ( so it’ll flop around for you without dropping the lower gasket)
  • you can do a lot of this with a manual ratchet; a $24 compact air ratchet from Harbor Freight will save you quite a bit of time as a nut-spinner. I used one with about 20ft-lbs of torque to try to avoid damaging plastics and aluminum.
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Volt0

Volt0

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I think that I found my answer here ( for question #2 ), from JK Gear & Gadgets =>

I'm still not sure what he did to remove that hose with the weaved cover, but I can see it free-hanging after he has the intake plenum off.
 

Maximus Gladius

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It is a lot of work to take the upper intake off only to inspect the plugs. Why not drop in some new ones?

I changed mine last week at only 60k kms but only because I experienced a P0305 misfire on cylinder 5. The plug was super easy to get out and was damaged and I figured they probably all looked as bad so I just bought the set of plugs and swapped them out. After about a week or so, today I took a trip with the wife and Dane and drove 6 hours, there and back to Edmonton and gained 1.8 mpg better than before.
 
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Volt0

Volt0

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It is a lot of work to take the upper intake off only to inspect the plugs. Why not drop in some new ones?

I changed mine last week at only 60k kms but only because I experienced a P0305 misfire on cylinder 5. The plug was super easy to get out and was damaged and I figured they probably all looked as bad so I just bought the set of plugs and swapped them out. After about a week or so, today I took a trip with the wife and Dane and drove 6 hours, there and back to Edmonton and gained 1.8 mpg better than before.
Did you gap to spec, or a little wider?
 

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Volt0

Volt0

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Volt0

Volt0

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It is a lot of work to take the upper intake off only to inspect the plugs. Why not drop in some new ones?
Oh, I agree a 100%. I’ve been within striking distance twice now, and getting faster each time ;-) The autoparts store is only about 4mi away.

it’s not like when I was a kid, sitting inside the engine bay on the inside of a wheel well, changing spark plugs on a square body Chevy. There’s more crap in the way, and the power tools make short work of spinning nuts/bolts.
 
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Volt0

Volt0

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When you get to doing this job please post a pick of your spark plugs and also a photo of the valves.
The valves looked all the same; pretty clean with some light oil residue, when I get in there again I can snap a pic of one set of valves along with the plugs.
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