Clayton Off Road JT Suspension Systems

[Eric Kern]

Thanks ! Goodyear MTR Kevlar - 37x12.5x17. They are a big 37, true to size. They will not fit in between the frame rails of the spare tire location -- even if they clear the track bar. I have a Patagonia MTR as a spare, same size, but, it is 1/2" or more shorter. Wheels are Method 703 "bead grip" in zero offset. Tires stick out about "1/2 a lug" from the rear fender on the Goodyear MTR. No rock/mud slinging on the body with the RSE sliders there.

Very nice!!!! I ran the 35x12.5x17 on my JKUR, loved em......fun tire for sure!!! Strangely enough i feel like you literally just read my damn mind hahaha....i wanna stick with the MTRs on my JTR, but was looking to keep them inside the fenders as much as possible (cuz the rocks/spray/salt)... they did start making 275/80R17s, a bit pizza cutter-ish, but will get me close to 35, and still keep me around 11" wide. I dont wheel as much as i used to either so im willing to make concessions on some things now. I live in New England, and the amount of salt, sand, calcium chloride they put on the winter roads, its impossible for the paint to survive getting hosed down daily with that sh**. Spending $50/week washing it off....looked at mud flaps...meh....didnt even think about new sliders...those look beefy, im guessing not cheap tho......

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[Bumpy Ride]

Just received my 3.5 Overland Plus kit yesterday!! Super excited to get them on... Will report back once installed.

 

[hjdca]

Just received my 3.5 Overland Plus kit yesterday!! Super excited to get them on... Will report back once installed.

Great ! You will love it. Some tips:

1. The Clayton recommended control arm lengths, track bar lengths were perfect. Spend the time to make sure the length is set perfectly and the lengths are perfectly the same from side to side. I ended up with 5.7-5.8 Caster up front (measured by my own digital gauge, but, I could not take into account any slight slope on the level ground I was on) which seems to be perfect.
2. Loosen all control arms a lot, enough so the bolt is flush to the end of the nut. This is the only way to get the truck high enough to get the new springs in.
3. I did the Springs, Shocks, Track bars, sway bar links, & brake lines first - front and back.
4. Then, I installed the control arms., rear ones first, one at a time, starting with the lowers. Remove one, put one on, etc... With all the other stuff installed first, it seemed easier to install the longer control arms, the Gladiator seemed to want to move that way. Did I say "make sure all the control arms are very, very loose."
5. My mini 1/2" impact with the impact swivels - 18mm, 21mm, 24mm was used for almost everything - for sure all the control arms. This made it a ton easier. I attached a pic.
6. The sway bar end links are kind of a pain to tighten. You need a 6mmAllen head with an 18m wrench. Make sure to tighten them really well or they will rattle.
7. Jeep has some of the lines to the axles with extension loops in them, tied up with zip ties. Cut the zip ties and you get 3 to 4 more inches. The anti-lock sensor lines for the rear brakes can also be extended by pulling out the push pins on the frame and you can zip ties those to the new red brake lines.

 

[hjdca]

Very nice!!!! I ran the 35x12.5x17 on my JKUR, loved em......fun tire for sure!!! Strangely enough i feel like you literally just read my damn mind hahaha....i wanna stick with the MTRs on my JTR, but was looking to keep them inside the fenders as much as possible (cuz the rocks/spray/salt)... they did start making 275/80R17s, a bit pizza cutter-ish, but will get me close to 35, and still keep me around 11" wide. I dont wheel as much as i used to either so im willing to make concessions on some things now. I live in New England, and the amount of salt, sand, calcium chloride they put on the winter roads, its impossible for the paint to survive getting hosed down daily with that sh**. Spending $50/week washing it off....looked at mud flaps...meh....didnt even think about new sliders...those look beefy, im guessing not cheap tho......

The Rock Slide Engineering Sliders are fantastic. My girlfriend says they are the best mod. The are great for keeping the paint clean. With the big height now, they also offer a nice platform to walk on to work on the top of the Jeep and it is an easy quick step to the rear tire to get in the bed. I have the armor for them too. They are exceptionally well engineered and they fit perfect. There are a lot of things to do for the installation, so, plan a few days. Unfortunately, they are very expensive and very heavy, but, that is the only negative.

 

[Bumpy Ride]

Great ! You will love it. Some tips:

1. The Clayton recommended control arm lengths, track bar lengths were perfect. Spend the time to make sure the length is set perfectly and the lengths are perfectly the same from side to side. I ended up with 5.7-5.8 Caster up front (measured by my own digital gauge, but, I could not take into account any slight slope on the level ground I was on) which seems to be perfect.
2. Loosen all control arms a lot, enough so the bolt is flush to the end of the nut. This is the only way to get the truck high enough to get the new springs in.
3. I did the Springs, Shocks, Track bars, sway bar links, & brake lines first - front and back.
4. Then, I installed the control arms., rear ones first, one at a time, starting with the lowers. Remove one, put one on, etc... With all the other stuff installed first, it seemed easier to install the longer control arms, the Gladiator seemed to want to move that way. Did I say "make sure all the control arms are very, very loose."
5. My mini 1/2" impact with the impact swivels - 18mm, 21mm, 24mm was used for almost everything - for sure all the control arms. This made it a ton easier. I attached a pic.
6. The sway bar end links are kind of a pain to tighten. You need a 6mmAllen head with an 18m wrench. Make sure to tighten them really well or they will rattle.
7. Jeep has some of the lines to the axles with extension loops in them, tied up with zip ties. Cut the zip ties and you get 3 to 4 more inches. The anti-lock sensor lines for the rear brakes can also be extended by pulling out the push pins on the frame and you can zip ties those to the new red brake lines.

Awesome! Thanks for the tips!

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Awesome! Thanks for the tips!

Clayton customers are the best!

 

[Bumpy Ride]

Clayton customers are the best!

Yes they are! Along with installing the BEST lift kit on the market!

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Yes they are! Along with installing the BEST lift kit on the market!

Exactly!

 

[deadbug]

those of you who've done the 3.5 overland plus is brake lines and drive shaft adjustments needed?

 

[hjdca]

those of you who've done the 3.5 overland plus is brake lines and drive shaft adjustments needed?

Brake lines - yes. Shock Length determines this, and the Falcon SP2 3.3 adjustable rear that I bought is long. Take a look at this shock chart, it is whopping 32.30 inches long. So, I needed the extra brake lines. The Falcon SP2 mono tube is 2.5 inches shorter, so, you may not need the extra brake lines for that shock.

Regarding front drive shaft, I changed it because it was recommended. I did not try running the stock front driveshaft off road.

Here you can see that even the red extended brake lines are at their limit when the rear shocks are fully extended. I also needed to pull some frame mounting tabs off the wheel sensor wires to extend them.

 

[J_0ne]

Brake lines - yes. Shock Length determines this, and the Falcon SP2 3.3 adjustable rear that I bought is long. Take a look at this shock chart, it is whopping 32.30 inches long. So, I needed the extra brake lines. The Falcon SP2 mono tube is 2.5 inches shorter, so, you may not need the extra brake lines for that shock.

Regarding front drive shaft, I changed it because it was recommended. I did not try running the stock front driveshaft off road.

Here you can see that even the red extended brake lines are at their limit when the rear shocks are fully extended. I also needed to pull some frame mounting tabs off the wheel sensor wires to extend them.

Can you provide me with the drive shaft information you installed? I am waiting on my 3.5 lift to arrive and might have to start looking into what drive shaft I need, TIA.

 

[Bumpy Ride]

Can you provide me with the drive shaft information you installed? I am waiting on my 3.5 lift to arrive and might have to start looking into what drive shaft I need, TIA.

I may go with Adams 1350 front & rear

 

[robd1438]

I may go with Adams 1350 front & rear

that’s what I have on order for my 3.5” overland

 

[aztec1382]

How does the 2.5 inch lift ride
Is it still close to factory

 

[deadbug]

How does the 2.5 inch lift ride
Is it still close to factory

Unfortunately I can not comment yet, still waiting for my order. With the lift it self I don't think you'd notice much of a difference, may even be better, but it would depend more on the shocks and whatever tires you choose to go along with it !
maybe some one else will chime in who has first hand experience with it already installed

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