Did you know Aux wires are inside also ? Not just by the battery.

[SwampNut]

The wireless charger is powered by USB, right? But yeah, you're definitely safe.

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[MomsSpaghetti]

I was getting ready to mount led lights inside the cab ( the middle cluster of lights is a joke if you are looking for something at night) and was going to run the wires to the Orange wire by the battery. Happen to look at wrangler forum and found a thread on the Aux wires being inside for adding items in the cab.
Looked in front of the footwell and found them (look exactly like the ones by the battery) taped to another cable.
The only issue is the limited ground locations. Found a post close by that was good so I tied it into that.
Now my #3 switch is active and the cab is like daytime.

My question is, what lights are those that you installed?

 

[Mark Doiron]

... reading the manual. ... it's like porn but better.

You can even download the PDF version ... sex ... of you[r] choice!!!

I may have to reread the manual because I'm obviously overlooking the good parts.

 

[SwampNut]

They talk about various lubes and fluids, insertion of various things into various other things, and so much more.

 

[Jeepnoob34]

I can't believe people spend $40-60k on something and don't bother reading the manual. I'm on my second reading, it's like porn but better.

I like manuals as much as the next guy, but that’s a strong statement lol.

 

[SwampNut]

What I did to connect multiple accessories, and to extend the ground point from the annoying right side to where the power wires are...

 

[DAVECS1]

I put a High Powered Deutsch connector on the wires under the hood will probably do the same in the cab.

 

[Mark Doiron]

What I did to connect multiple accessories, and to extend the ground point from the annoying right side to where the power wires are...

Depending on what you're wiring to those aux switches, do remember that your ground wire must carry the total of any current draw that is present on the positive side. And, if you're using two wires thinking they can substitute for a large wire, that's a poor design. If one wire fails (broken connection), then all of the current will be through the one remaining wire. Theoretically, if you were to draw max current on all wires at the same time, you'd draw 124 amps. Even if your power draw is more modest and you had a 10 ga ground wire, the rule of thumb is roughly 30 amps max on that. If you run each device ground wire individually to the OEM ground point, then you can use multiple smaller wires since a failure of one means that device simply stops working without causing excess draw on any remaining wire(s).

 

[SwampNut]

I'm familiar with how electricity works, and one wire is sufficient for the entire load. The backup is because I'm paranoid about bad grounds.

 

[Mark Doiron]

I'm familiar with how electricity works, and one wire is sufficient for the entire load. The backup is because I'm paranoid about bad grounds.

Sorry, then for intruding on your decision. But, I have over a half century of experience in avionics (now retired), so am a bit OCD. Especially since the number one cause of fires in the overlanding world is bad wiring by vehicle owners.

 

[SwampNut]

No problem, and that's why there's a backup wire.

In IT, we say that one backup is none, two backups is maybe one, three is where you might be safe...

EDIT: Also I guess the wire gauges look uneven at those angles. The max load on everything right now is around 7.3a.

 

[Gladiator Overland]

What I did to connect multiple accessories, and to extend the ground point from the annoying right side to where the power wires are...

Although this makes it easier and looks neat. Using this for multiple accessories is a nogo as far as mobile installs on a single circuit. Now one could use a single line to a small blue seas or similar fuse block. Centralizes and makes easier to chsnge fuses and diagnose the issue than fusing each accessory line. If going this route id recommend lableong the fuse block at the lines max amps and fuse. The add up all accessories to not exceed this rating. You do this so if one of the accessories has a fault it is easier to diagnose and not having to check all the accessires daisy chained off the circuit. Personally, if I had multiple non switched accessories I would be addng a dedicated fused line from the battery. Good luck and hope this helps.

 

[SwampNut]

The fuse block is what I've done in the past, but it's not really necessary and there's no space for it in this car. This wiring is larger than necessary for any accessory, and is perfectly safe. Each accessory came with its own inline fuse. Another would be pointless.

 

[Gladiator Overland]

The fuse block is what I've done in the past, but it's not really necessary and there's no space for it in this car. This wiring is larger than necessary for any accessory, and is perfectly safe. Each accessory came with its own inline fuse. Another would be pointless.

Well then good luck. Just sharing my advice from beong a mobile installer for a number of years. Just trying to help you out. Like, I said personally Id run a seperated fuse block for all those accessories.

 

[SwampNut]

Fair enough. I've been rebuilding boats and cars for almost 40 years, down to full harnesses. I've seen this work just fine for minor things like a dashcam and radio. I'd never do it for anything critical, nor outside the enclosed cab. Under the hood it's all heat shrink and shields.

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