Diesel Rubicon Axle Upgrades

[jnack]

I would like some insight into my planned axle upgrades for my Diesel Rubicon. For some insight, I'm currently on 37x13.5 KM3s and my rig is primarily built for overlanding more difficult trails...

I will likely go up to 39x13.5 KM3s which total weight will only be ~ 116lbs (KM3s are on the lighter side).

I will never go to 40s in the JT -- if I want a dedicated rock crawling rig I'll get a trailer princess.

I have no intention of doing a full axle swap, so please don't try to convince me that's the better option...

My current plans are as follows:

• RCV Front: I feel like the move is to go with 1 piece for FAD delete -- my question is does the 1 piece automatically delete the FAD or are there any electronic things that need to happen with the FAD delete? I know there is a big sensor on the back of the FAD...
• Yukon Chromaly Rear Axle Shafts
• Gears -- was thinking 4.56 would be the sweet spot -- https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...gdrv8O8Zc9KqJBm23Bl9KTNcZuGUkkukaAvE9EALw_wcB this a good option?
• Artec Truss Rear
• Artec Truss Front
• Artec C Gusset
• Dynatrac HD Balljoints
  • I saw a recent post that the Teraflex balljoints are not compatible with RCVs can someone please comment if the Dynatrac HD Balljoints are compatible with the RCVs

The diesel gladiator has the cast steering knuckles from factory which seem quite stout...I was thinking it's not worth upgrading to the Reid racing

I'd appreciate any constructive criticism on these planned upgrades...any other brands preferred. Missing anything?


Given my goal is not to swap axles completely, how does this plan sound so far

Sponsored

 

[Rusty PW]

My understanding of the one piece RCV axles is that the FAD sliding fork remains in place. When you put it in 4H or 4L. The fork moves. But there is no sliding coupler. As it has been eliminated. The fork just slides over the axle. The other option is to remove the FAD all together and use a block off plate, and use a Tazer to turn off the FAD.

You read the thread on the Teraflex ball joints and RCV axle issue. The Teraflex ball joints have 2 grease fittings on top of the ball joint. This is where the issue is at. The Dynatrac ball joints get greased from the side. I think this will not have a problem with the RCV axles.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I would like some insight into my planned axle upgrades for my Diesel Rubicon. For some insight, I'm currently on 37x13.5 KM3s and my rig is primarily built for overlanding more difficult trails...

I will likely go up to 39x13.5 KM3s which total weight will only be ~ 116lbs (KM3s are on the lighter side).

I will never go to 40s in the JT -- if I want a dedicated rock crawling rig I'll get a trailer princess.

I have no intention of doing a full axle swap, so please don't try to convince me that's the better option...

My current plans are as follows:

• RCV Front: I feel like the move is to go with 1 piece for FAD delete -- my question is does the 1 piece automatically delete the FAD or are there any electronic things that need to happen with the FAD delete? I know there is a big sensor on the back of the FAD...
• Yukon Chromaly Rear Axle Shafts
• Gears -- was thinking 4.56 would be the sweet spot -- https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...gdrv8O8Zc9KqJBm23Bl9KTNcZuGUkkukaAvE9EALw_wcB this a good option?
• Artec Truss Rear
• Artec Truss Front
• Artec C Gusset
• Dynatrac HD Balljoints
  • I saw a recent post that the Teraflex balljoints are not compatible with RCVs can someone please comment if the Dynatrac HD Balljoints are compatible with the RCVs

The diesel gladiator has the cast steering knuckles from factory which seem quite stout...I was thinking it's not worth upgrading to the Reid racing

I'd appreciate any constructive criticism on these planned upgrades...any other brands preferred. Missing anything?


Given my goal is not to swap axles completely, how does this plan sound so far

I think that you have the best possible plan in place for big tires. Keeping the weight down is important. Knowing when to and when not to engage the front locker is going to go a Loooong way in longevity.

What’s the plan for steering? I recommend aluminum tie rod and no bigger than one ton ends (gotta have a weak link…..)

What do the 39” bfg’s measure out at these days? I know bfg has been on the short side for years. I have kicked around rolling the dice on some 39 ko2’s ? big tires cost me a lot more money than I wanted to spend on my JKU….

 

[mdyucca]

TewlTalk on Youtube has done a series of videos where he changes axles, gears and bearings and really beefs up the stock Dana 44 axles. Worth looking at if you are considering beefing up your axles. His axle build is a series of videos. This link () will get you to, I believe. the l last video in the series.

 

[jnack]

I think that you have the best possible plan in place for big tires. Keeping the weight down is important. Knowing when to and when not to engage the front locker is going to go a Loooong way in longevity.

What’s the plan for steering? I recommend aluminum tie rod and no bigger than one ton ends (gotta have a weak link…..)

What do the 39” bfg’s measure out at these days? I know bfg has been on the short side for years. I have kicked around rolling the dice on some 39 ko2’s ? big tires cost me a lot more money than I wanted to spend on my JKU….

was thinking of likely upgrading steering pump with the apex booster kit -- hydraulic assist wound be sweet but out of the budget.

as far as steering components: was thinking about steer smarts pro-series aluminum tie rod: https://steersmarts.com/collections...angler-jl-jlu-2018-select-standard-or-rubicon -- any thoughts/recommendations for steering?

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

was thinking of likely upgrading steering pump with the apex booster kit -- hydraulic assist wound be sweet but out of the budget.

as far as steering components: was thinking about steer smarts pro-series aluminum tie rod: https://steersmarts.com/collections...angler-jl-jlu-2018-select-standard-or-rubicon -- any thoughts/recommendations for steering?

Steer smart makes good stuff, they are easy to adjust and hold up well. 7075 is I’m pretty sure what everyone makes the rods from- so they should all bounce back about the same

Jacking up the steering pressure should help.
Maybe look at having a redneck ram added? Pretty sure they are the most affordable hydro out there. If you haven’t driven a vehicle with hydro assist when aired down and on the rocks….. it’s hard to justify. But if you have, you will know why everyone goes this rout.

Sponsored