Yeah, the heater should draw air in from the heated space, either via a return duct or by being in the space. If you mount it in the space, make sure you’re using the really high quality exhaust clamps. Technically one failure mode is leaking of the secondary and primary loops but that’s less common than simple exhaust leaks. I would invest in a quality CO monitor if the unit is mounted in your sleeping space.The route I went. Hope it works out. Basically trying to use the heated air from inside the camper to recirculate into the inlet. Tank is on the other side of the piece of wood. I've seen people not have an inlet for the air and they seem to work fine. As long as there is air for combustion and a exhaust port.
Clamp:
I chose not to add a breather because they tend to leak but they exist. I haven’t actually seen one on one of these heaters fuel tanks or in the kits. I leave the outer RotoPax cap a little loose on the standpipe when in use to allow a little air venting to prevent a vacuum.
any water intrusion you've been able to notice by going that route? Snow/rain camping very common for me...had a breather that wasn't horrible in my current setup, but leaking would still occur if not cautious.
@Wolf Island Diver I have a few questions on this. Can you please elaborate a little more on your rotopax & stand pipe set up?That’s the copper tubing that goes down into the fuel tank. By drawing from the top you eliminate the possibility of leaking from a fitting drilled into the tank. In other words the tank isn’t compromised. Also you can change out tanks easily since the top of the standpipe seals against standard fuel canisters. I’ve got a typical dual RotoPax mount, so I’ve got two tanks of fuel, but I could also use some other tank if need be. Longer standpipes are designed to go down into the vehicles fuel tank opening to draw from that tank. There’s a single penetration in the case for the fuel line, but overall it’s less integrated. So I could replace all the fuel lines in a matter of minutes if need be.
I’m pretty sure the standpipe came with the Vevor heater. I don’t see one in my order history. The same heater now doesn’t show the standpipe it may not have then either. They seem to package these with random stuff. I don’t see why one of these would leak. It’s just copper tubing. Where it seals against the top of the fuel container it may leak, but I use the Rotopax cap when moving. I pull the standpipe out and cap it with a piece of the rubber connector hose that’s used to join the fuel line that I’ve sealed off. You could use some other rubber cap. You may lose prime taking it out like this, but my bottle priming method works fine. I don’t prime with the pump. I just wipe down the standpipe and strap it to the top of the heater. The bigger issue is securing/storing the ducting.
