Does it invalidate a factory warranty to prepare a Gladiator to be towed?

[Kevin_D]

For a few bucks, get the Oracle tail light plug and play adapter they use for their backup lights.

That way you can always simply unplug things to put it back to stock or test to see if anything is messed up.

This gives me ideas...
I'm not thrilled with my current wireless solution, and with this adapter, the JT wiring remains intact.

Kevin

Sponsored

 

[Y-Guy]

@TMGladOverHighAlt I'm setting up my 2020 JT for flat towing. I used the Cool Tech on my JKU, however I'm not thrilled with the JT/JL setup requiring a switch. I am exploring the Blue Ox BX88368 EZ LIGHT Wiring Harness Jeep Gladiator as it doesn't need a switch and appears to be 100% plug in and play. Best pricing I've found was on Amazon. Though I can't imagine ever needing to, I could pull this if i felt the dealer was going to have issues.

 

[rconkin]

@TMGladOverHighAlt I'm setting up my 2020 JT for flat towing. I used the Cool Tech on my JKU, however I'm not thrilled with the JT/JL setup requiring a switch. I am exploring the Blue Ox BX88368 EZ LIGHT Wiring Harness Jeep Gladiator as it doesn't need a switch and appears to be 100% plug in and play. Best pricing I've found was on Amazon. Though I can't imagine ever needing to, I could pull this if i felt the dealer was going to have issues.

That's the kit I used on mine. It only does the taillights and I'm wanting to see what I would have to do to have the side marker lights work also. I very seldom tow at night, however, I would feel more comfortable if they were on.

 

[TMGladOverHighAlt]

Well, I decided I will move forward with the Cooltech kit. Electrically it is 100% isolated and is essentially the best option for the Jeep. I am more than willing to show a service manager what it is and how it doesn’t interfere with the Jeep. Hell, I’m NASA Certified for soldering, which means there will be zero wire cutting. The other kit mentioned above is not complete for all affected circuits, nor are there reviews wonderful. I could fix their potential issues, but rather not end up essentially doing the same thing to achieve the very same thing, with no demonstrative improvements. Also, the “funky switch” is why it isolates from the Jeep 100% and is as idiot-proof as it gets.

Thank you to all who have contributed to my question.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hell, I’m NASA Certified for soldering, which means there will be zero wire cutting.

I've been called certifiable but I'm not so sure that's a good thing...........

Jeep dealerships see it as a "modification" and I prefer to make things so I can simply unplug them if I trade. And it worked out for me when I traded my 2020 - I unplugged things and no wires were ever touched other than connectors disengaged and reconnected.
I didn't connect my snow plow wiring like they wanted, I can easily unplug all of the plow integration and plug the Jeep connectors back together and no one would ever know the plow wiring had ever been there.

 

[Climbhigh]

Well, I decided I will move forward with the Cooltech kit. Electrically it is 100% isolated and is essentially the best option for the Jeep. I am more than willing to show a service manager what it is and how it doesn’t interfere with the Jeep. Hell, I’m NASA Certified for soldering, which means there will be zero wire cutting. The other kit mentioned above is not complete for all affected circuits, nor are there reviews wonderful. I could fix their potential issues, but rather not end up essentially doing the same thing to achieve the very same thing, with no demonstrative improvements. Also, the “funky switch” is why it isolates from the Jeep 100% and is as idiot-proof as it gets.

Thank you to all who have contributed to my question.

I did the cool tech, and like it...but it was scary as hell. For a couple of days I had warnings on my console, like "left rear turn signal not working". After a couple of start ups though it has completely disappeared.

I also put a switch cover on, over the switch to keep it from accidentally getting flipped.

 

[TMGladOverHighAlt]

I've been called certifiable but I'm not so sure that's a good thing...........

Jeep dealerships see it as a "modification" and I prefer to make things so I can simply unplug them if I trade. And it worked out for me when I traded my 2020 - I unplugged things and no wires were ever touched other than connectors disengaged and reconnected.
I didn't connect my snow plow wiring like they wanted, I can easily unplug all of the plow integration and plug the Jeep connectors back together and no one would ever know the plow wiring had ever been there.

I completely agree with your way of thinking. But, there is no way of getting to the factory wires without dismantling the Jeep and running wires all over the place. It would be 100x easier if they’d run a molex connector from inside to outside via the firewall and I could have accessed there. But the tiny little bastard wires are coming off the ECU. So I believe my tiny wire junctions (hidden) will cause the least amount of static with the dealer.

If I solder to the factory, it would take 15 min of popping the drivers floorboard wire chase cover up and snip the buggers and seal them up.

I’ve owned my dually Duramax for 14 years. So chances are I’ll own the Jeep far beyond the warranty period anyway.

Frankly, my 3 years will be up sooner than the mileage at the rate my miles are racking up. I’m up to 5417 this year!

 

[TMGladOverHighAlt]

I did the cool tech—-

I also put a switch cover on, over the switch to keep it from accidentally getting flipped.

That is a fantastic idea!!
Thanks.

 

[Climbhigh]

That is a fantastic idea!!
Thanks.

 

[Alan_Hepburn]

I liked the CoolTech solution, but was turned off by their price. So, I went online and got a 4PDT switch for about $5, some bulk 7-conductor double-insulated trailer wiring for about $30 for 50 feet, and instead of using the butt splices like CoolTech I used spade connectors so I can easily return the harness to near-OEM condition. I also mounted the switch on the dash, to the right of the glove box. The one thing I'm going to add now is that cool-looking switch cover! I used 7-conductor wiring figuring I might have a need for the extra wires sometime in the future, but I could have easily used the regular 4-conductor trailer wiring.

The connections to the OEM harness are hidden under the front passenger door sill and there are no OEM connectors in there so the chance of a dealer needing to open up that area during any troubleshooting should be low. Last month I had it in to fix the center-mount brake light and they did their complete troubleshooting procedure, from the light up to the BCM, and no mention was made of my mod so I feel pretty safe.

 

[TMGladOverHighAlt]

My plan was to use their kit and keep their instructions and use as proof of not harming the factory integration…..as I am still way under warrant.

But yes, if you’re not under warranty, do your own kit! ?

Sponsored