Front Camber and Caster Out of Spec

[ShadowsPapa]

You would want front UCA’s if you want to change your caster angle. I’d invest in the adjustable UCA’s from Clayton. I went with their measurements for their UCA’s to the T and came out with a 4.9 caster and I didn’t even adjust my pinion yet. They recommend 4.8-5.5 degrees caster (with a 2.5” lift). I might mess with them in the summer and shoot for 5.5 degrees, although it drives amazing now.

I already own a pair of the lower control arms for a MOPAR lift. Lowers will change caster as well (and are easier to swap out).
I know alignment, I just need it to warm up a bit so I can make the change.

Sponsored

 

[NewGladdyOWNR]

I already own a pair of the lower control arms for a MOPAR lift. Lowers will change caster as well (and are easier to swap out).
I know alignment, I just need it to warm up a bit so I can make the change.

I swapped out my factory LCA’s for the Mopar 2” lift LCA’s and the difference (.25 degrees) isn’t even visible to the naked eye. You’d still be better off with adjustable LCA’s if you didn’t want to mess with the UCA’s.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I swapped out my factory LCA’s for the Mopar 2” lift LCA’s and the difference (.25 degrees) isn’t even visible to the naked eye. You’d still be better off with adjustable LCA’s if you didn’t want to mess with the UCA’s.

Why would I want to swap out the uppers instead of lowers? What gives with keeping suggesting uppers would be better? They would not. The impact would be the same. If you put .25" shorter uppers in place vs. .25" longer lowers - the effect is the exact same. It has to be if the arms are level and parallel with each other and the ground. You'd be rotating the axle the exact same amount.
Makes no sense. Either work fine and either would be just as effective (or ineffective). Changing uppers offers no advantage over changing lowers especially on a vehicle that sits at nearly curb height.

Multiple reasons I have no reason or need to go adjustable and frankly, would not be better off:

The amount of caster change with the MOPAR lift kit lowers a given truck will realize is going to depend on the lift involved (whether it's factory height, a small change due to spring changes, or spacers, or a full lift and if so, how high). The greater the lift, the more it could change.

Several members have, over the last couple of years, used these arms and have seen improvements or changes - without going to the expense of adjustable. In short, it's worked out fine for a number of Jeep owners/forum members.

I already own the lowers - no need to let them sit and spend a whole lot more money on adjustable.

Mine tracks ok now, it's just that I'm at the lower end of the spec and I hate being on the edge or outer range of any spec even if things are working ok.
I am looking only for a little bit of a bump, get off the bottom of the spec (to allow for wear, etc. which could take it out of spec eventually) and if there's any improvement at all, that's great. I don't expect night and day difference as frankly, it's not needed. I can let go of the wheel on a flat level highway and the truck stays going straight. There's no wander. Most would be quite happy with how my truck drives and handles, but if I can do a very simple LCA swap and get off the bottom of spec and see any positive change, I'm good with that.

 

[NewGladdyOWNR]

Why would I want to swap out the uppers instead of lowers? What gives with keeping suggesting uppers would be better? They would not. The impact would be the same. If you put .25" shorter uppers in place vs. .25" longer lowers - the effect is the exact same. It has to be if the arms are level and parallel with each other and the ground. You'd be rotating the axle the exact same amount.
Makes no sense. Either work fine and either would be just as effective (or ineffective). Changing uppers offers no advantage over changing lowers especially on a vehicle that sits at nearly curb height.

Multiple reasons I have no reason or need to go adjustable and frankly, would not be better off:

The amount of caster change with the MOPAR lift kit lowers a given truck will realize is going to depend on the lift involved (whether it's factory height, a small change due to spring changes, or spacers, or a full lift and if so, how high). The greater the lift, the more it could change.

Several members have, over the last couple of years, used these arms and have seen improvements or changes - without going to the expense of adjustable. In short, it's worked out fine for a number of Jeep owners/forum members.

I already own the lowers - no need to let them sit and spend a whole lot more money on adjustable.

Mine tracks ok now, it's just that I'm at the lower end of the spec and I hate being on the edge or outer range of any spec even if things are working ok.
I am looking only for a little bit of a bump, get off the bottom of the spec (to allow for wear, etc. which could take it out of spec eventually) and if there's any improvement at all, that's great. I don't expect night and day difference as frankly, it's not needed. I can let go of the wheel on a flat level highway and the truck stays going straight. There's no wander. Most would be quite happy with how my truck drives and handles, but if I can do a very simple LCA swap and get off the bottom of spec and see any positive change, I'm good with that.

You said you’d wish you were as close to spec as the OP. I was simply giving advice on how to achieve that. I‘ve put 2 different suspensions on my JT thus far and my experience is UCA’s are more beneficial (in my situation) to adjust caster and fix pinion angle. The LCA’s will help with caster at the expense of pushing your axle forward offsetting your wheel within the wheel. Granted, you’d see no noticeable difference since you are not doing anything drastic. There is a balance between UCA’s and LCA’s. I chose the route to achieve that balance with adjustable control arms. By all means do what works for you. Just sharing my experience.

 

[MattAB]

My 2023 Gladiator camber was out of spec as well, similar to your numbers. There is a camber sleeve inside the knuckle that the ball joint slides through. Replaced them with new ones and it fixed my camber numbers.

Sponsored